Brett happens

Theo Diamantis recently joined the group to lead a tasting of wines from the oenopole portfolio. Our agency tastings usually feature private imports. This time, however, with an eye to the holidays, we focused mainly on bottles sold at the two SAQ Signature stores. The tasting began with a fine sparkler.

Champagne, Blanc de blancs, Extra-Brut, La Colline Inspirée, Jacques Lassaigne ($106, 12061353)
Planted to Chardonnay and a little Pinot Noir, the approximately five-hectare estate is located in Montgeux, a chalky hill in the southernmost part of the appellation. A small quantity of grapes is also purchased. All the grapes are organically farmed and the wine-making is as natural as possible. Disgorgement is performed monthly, surely one of the reasons the wines always taste fresh. This cuvée, currently a blend of the 2009 and 2010 vintages, is vinified and aged on the lees in used white Burgundy barrels. The 100% Chardonnay grapes come from vines more than 40 years old. Fermentation is with indigenous yeasts. Riddling is mechanical, disgorging manual. Sulphur is added only at harvest to prevent oxidation; even the liqueur d’expédition (the wine used to top up the disgorged bottles) is sulphur-free. The liqueur also contains little or no added sugar. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. Available only in magnums until a couple of years ago. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
A nose you want to linger with: apple and pear, chalk, yeast, a floral note and hints of vanilla, yogurt and oxidation (nuts and honey). Rich and round in the mouth, with a creamy texture, fine, caressing bubbles and tons of minerals and acidity. The mature fruit initially gives the impression of sweetness but the wine is actually very dry (around 4 g/l residual sugar). There’s good depth and impressive breadth and length. Fleshier than the other Lassaigne wines I’ve tasted but, like them, a model of purity and elegance. (Buy again? Budget permitting, yes.)

(Flight: 1/5)