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MWG January 8th tasting: A pair of organic Soaves

with 4 comments

Soave Classico 2013, Inama ($20.65, 00908004)
100% Garganega from organically farmed 30-year-old vines. The grapes are manually havested, destemmed, crushed, macerated on the skins for four to 12 hours, then pressed. The must is chilled and allowed to settle for 12 to 14 hours followed by alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. The fermented wine is racked into vats for eight months’ maturation. Sees only stainless steel until bottling. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Bergeron-les-vins.
Lovely, delicate, nuanced nose of lemon, white peach and just mowed flowery fields. Subtle and nuanced in the mouth too, fine-grained and dry. The pure fruit is infused with a rainwater minerality and soft-glow acidity. A faint carbon dioxide tingle only adds to the impression of freshness, while hints of almond and honey colour the bitter-threaded finish. (Buy again? Gladly.)

Soave Colli Scaligeri 2013, Castelcerino, Cantina Filippi ($20.10, 12129119)
100% Garganega from organically farmed vines most of which average 45 years old. Manually harvested. After pressing, the must is gravity-fed into stainless steel tanks. Temperature control is used sparingly if at all. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. Does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Matured on the fine lees for about six months, with occasional stirring, and an additional year in the bottle. Minimally sulphured before bottling. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Lemony and a bit Sauvignon Blanc-like with pear, limestone and faint floral notes. Clean and business-like on the palate, a delicate complex of minerals, white fruit and citrus that fade into a telltale bitter-almond finish. There’s acid aplenty but, oddly, the wine stays earthbound (“ça manque d’éclat,” in the words of one taster), which is surprising given its excellence in earlier vintages and the reception the 2013 has been getting from local restaurateurs and sommeliers. Perhaps ours was a slightly off bottle? (Buy again? At least another bottle for research purposes.)

(Flight: 2/8)

Written by carswell

January 22, 2015 at 18:19

4 Responses

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  1. I am so surprised. I had high expectations from the filippi. The Inama was real good.


    January 23, 2015 at 05:00

    • The more I think about it, the more I suspect our bottle wasn’t up to snuff. Haven’t been in or near an outlet that stocks it but as soon as I am, I’m buying another bottle. Will report back.


      January 23, 2015 at 16:04

  2. I tried – at an outlet – the higher-end of Filippi’s soave, the Vigne della Brà 2014 and it’s so megalicious I bought a bottle on the spot for research purposes. Worth a try! Or six.

    Monsieur Antoine

    March 24, 2017 at 18:22

    • Thanks for the heads-up, M. Antoine. Will definitely check it out.


      March 24, 2017 at 22:54

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