Brett happens

Dogliani 2011, San Luigi, Chionetti Quinto ($19.20, 12466001)
100% Dogliani (aka Dolcetto) from vines averaging 20 to 25 years old. Manually harvested. Temperature-controlled fermentation (max 29–30°C)  on the skins with indigenous yeasts and daily pump-overs lasted 10 days. The wine was racked into new tanks for malolactic fermentation and 11 months’ maturation. Saw only stainless steel until bottling. Cold stabilized but unfiltered. Around 46,000 bottles made. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Plum skin, red and black licorice, mushrooms stored in a paper bag for a couple of days. Smooth and rich, extracted but not weighty. Velvety tannins plush the beautifully pure mulberry fruit, while the fresh acidity turns a little bitey on the dry and drying finish. More upfront than profound – what depth there is is mainly mineral and those minerals are dark – but vibrant and lovely. (Buy again? Definitely.)