Brett happens

Bandol 2011, La Bastide Blanche ($29.25, 10887451)
About three-quarters Mourvèdre and one-quarter Grenache with micro-dollops of Cinsault and Syrah from organically farmed vines averaging 30 years of age; the estate was certified Ecocert in 2012 and is gradually adopting biodynamic practices. Temperature-controlled maceration and fermentation with indigenous yeasts, with daily punch-downs and pump-overs, lasts about three weeks. After devatting, the wine is matured in oak foudres and demi-muids for 18 to 24 months. About 55,000 bottles were made. 14.7% ABV. Quebec agent: Trialto.
Dark fruit (blackberry, plum), leather, hints of truffle, licorice and Mediterranean scrub. Full-bodied but fluid. Very dry. The clean, ripe fruit is a big part of the attraction on opening but less vibrant and beginning to oxidize when the tail end is revisited a day later. The firm but lithe tannins and brightening acidity are well integrated. A dark, minerally undercurrent adds mystery. The finish is long and, on the second day, marked by an alcoholic flare. In earlier vintages this has always been an authentic, accessible, drinkable and fairly priced Bandol and the 2011 is no exception. A fine candidate for short- to medium-term cellaring, though nobody will complain if you open a bottle now to drink with grilled meat. (Buy again? Yes.)