Brett happens

Madeira, 10 years, Malmsey, Blandy’s ($50.00, 10896701)
100% Malmsey (aka Malvasia). The grapes were pressed and the must transferred to temperature-controlled (18-21°C) stainless steel tanks for fermentation with indigenous yeasts. After two days or so grape brandy was added, arresting fermentation and leaving a significant amount of residual sugar in the wine. The wine was then transferred to seasoned American oak barrels for 10 year’s ageing, during which period the barrels were gradually moved from the warmer top floors of the lodge to the cooler middle and ground floors. Meanwhile the wine was racked repeatedly. 3.6 g/l residual sugar. 19% ABV. Quebec agent: Les Sélections François Frechette.
Astoundingly complex bouquet of dates, dried fig, chocolate, candied nuts, old wood, leather and more, smelling deep and old yet also fresh. Unfurls across the palate: dense but not heavy, sweet but not saccharine. The texture is satiny despite the bright acidity. The mouth-filling flavours are as multifaceted as the aromas, with toffee, dried fruit and nuts dominating. Alcohol warms but doesn’t flame the long, long nougaty finish with its dried orange peel overtones. Impeccable and, more importantly, delicious. (Buy again? Yes.)

(Flight: 5/5)