Brett happens

Côtes du Roussillon 2012, Cuvée Laïs, Domaine Olivier Pithon ($26.20, 11925720)
The Laïs line is named after Pithon’s pet cow. Organically farmed Grenache Noir (40%), Carignan (40%) and Mourvèdre (20%). Manually harvested at the beginning of maturity, often a week or two before the neighbours start, the idea being to make wines that are fresher and less heavy than the norm. Vinification is traditional (native yeasts, non-interventionist). The wine is matured in concrete tanks and foudres. Reducing sugar: 3.2 g/l. 13.6% ABV. Quebec agent: Planvin.
Unlike several bottles of last year’s 2011, free of reductive and barnyard aromas. Clean as a whistle, in fact. Fragrant nose, redolent of plum and blackberry, graphite and sun-baked earth with sawdust, spice chest, dried herbs and animale notes. Medium-bodied and fundamentally supple. The upfront, ripe-sweet fruit gives way to a taut, drying mid-palate lightly soured by smooth acidity and structured by pervasive fine tannins that lend an astringent haze to the long, minerally, juicy finish. Fresh, balanced and so, so drinkable. Well nigh perfect with bœuf à la Robespierre. (Buy again? Yes.)

When is the SAQ going to start carrying the white?