Brett happens

Vinho Regional Terras do Dão 2013, D. Fuas Reserva, Caves Velhas ($13.95, 882696)
Caves Velhas is part of the Enoport stable. Touriga Nacional (30%), Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo, 30%), Alfrocheiro (20%) and Jaen (aka Mencia, 20%). Destemmed. Given extended maceration on the skins. Maceration and alcoholic fermentation are temperature-controlled (28°C). Reducing sugar: 2.8 g/l. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Mosaiq.
Cocoa, graphite and spice with rose and raspberry yogurt in the background. Smooth, dry and subdued in the mouth, more medium-bodied than full. The plummy fruit is tart and dark while slender tannins give the wine a pervasive light astringency. Dried herb notes and a blessedly faint hint of mocha add some complexity. Dries out a little on the fair finish. Not memorable but greater than the sum of its parts. Might benefit from a year or two in the cellar. (Buy again? Maybe.)