Brett happens

Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine 2013, Expression d’Orthogneiss, Domaine de l’Écu ($22.70, 10919141)
100% Melon de Bourgogne (aka Muscadet) from biodynamically farmed, half-century-old vines grown in a three-hectare vineyard with a thin, gravelly top soil and an orthogneiss subsoil. Manually harvested. The whole clusters are pneumatically pressed and the juice unclarified. Fermented with indigenous yeasts at 15–17ºC (59–63ºF). Matured on the lees for 18 months. The winery uses gravity, not pumps, to move the must and wine. Reducing sugar: 1.2 g/l. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Raisonnance.
Subdued nose of stones and apple with whiffs of honey and dried lemon peel. Slightly viscous texture. The subtle fruit – again apple and lemon – is wrapped in minerals, overtoned with honey. Acidity is brisk but unassertive, the finish long and aromatic with long-held notes of paraffin, seawater, bitter herbs and durian. Bone dry yet rich enough that you don’t really notice. Impeccable and age-worthy (up to 10 years from the vintage). Ridiculously high QPR (Muscadet may be France’s most unappreciated white wine). Though Muscadet is the raw oyster wine par excellence, this has the wherewithal to accompany more elaborate, richly sauced dishes. (Buy again? Definitely.)