Brett happens

Achaïa 2014, Kalavryta, Tetramythos ($16.85, 11885457)
The estate is located in Achaea, on the Gulf of Corinth in the northern Peloponnese. This wine is made using the free-run juice from organically farmed Black of Kalavryta (Μαύρο Καλαβρυτινό) grapes, an indigenous variety once widely grown in the area but now nearly extinct (Tetramythos is reportedly the only remaining producer). Alcoholic fermentation (with indigenous yeasts) and nine months’ maturation are in stainless steel vats. Unusually for a red wine, malolactic fermentation is prevented. Use of sulphur dioxide is kept to a bare minimum. The wine is unfined but coarsely filtered before bottling. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Popped and poured. Subdued nose of sour cherry, black olives, dark spice and an old leather jacket splotched with dried earth. In the mouth, it’s light- to medium-bodied and bone dry. Here the clean fruit tends more to red plum and is infused with slate and iron. Acidity is present but not biting. A fine tannic astringency dries and textures the finish with its black pepper and red meat (iron again) notes. Half the bottle was transferred into an actual half-bottle, recorked and stuck in the fridge. Drunk two days later, the wine showed a tad sweeter, rounder and, if anything, tastier. In other words, a few hours’ carafing might not be a bad idea. A decent match for chicken braised with white wine, rosemary and garlic; the winery’s suggested pairing of fish baked in tomato sauce intrigues. (Buy again? For sure.)