Brett happens

Chianti 2014, Cetamura, Coltibuono ($14.95, 12693916)
Sangiovese (90%), Canaiolo (5%), Ciliegiolo (3%) and Colorino (2%) from vines grown in the subzones of the Chianti appellation. Fermented “traditionally” (whatever that means) and matured in stainless steel tanks. Aged briefly in bottle. 200,000 bottles made. Reducing sugar: 2.3 g/l. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Sélections Fréchette.
Cherry, spice, pencil shavings, terracotta, stems and a quick-to-dissipate horsey whiff of volatile acidity. Medium-bodied and fluid. The surface is pleasant but there’s not much depth. The lightly juicy fruit sours and dries on the mid-palate. Tame acidity and supple tannins provide a modicum of texture. If the flavours fade fast on the savoury finish, a tart stemmy/woody astringency lingers. While it doesn’t quite coalesce into a harmonious whole, doesn’t scream terroir and doesn’t deliver the kind of bang for the buck found in, say, the $23 La Ragnaie, it’s a decent enough weeknight Sangiovese and, hey, it runs less than $15 a bottle. (Buy again? Maybe.)