Brett happens

All wine, most of the time

Selbach-Oster times two

with 3 comments

Mosel 2014, Zeltinger Himmelreich, Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken, Selbach-Oster ($19.95, 00927962)
100% Riesling from the Himmelreich vineyard (Zeltinger is the name of the adjacent, riverside village). Manually harvested. Made in tanks and large neutral barrels. Screwcapped. Reducing sugar: 17 g/l. 11% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
“Lemon-flavoured Greek yogurt” (quoting another taster), chalk, quartz and eventually green apple and a whiff of petrol. Light and lean in the mouth. The sugar, in no way saccharine to begin with, is held in check by trenchant acidity. The fruit seems subdued, at least for now, while the pervasive minerals have yet to crystallize. Enjoyable enough as is but, based on experience with earlier vintages, I’m guessing this still has some knitting together to do and will show better in a year or two. Cannot imagine why anyone, especially sushi eaters, would choose Kung Fu Girl when this is around. (Buy again? Sure.)

Mosel 2012, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Riesling Spätlese Trocken, Selbach-Oster ($29.35, 00904243)
100% Riesling from the Sonnenuhr vineyard. Manually harvested. Made in tanks and large neutral barrels. Reducing sugar: 7.7 g/l. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Apples, faint citrus, chalk and slate. Elegant and transparent, with a rainwatery weight and texture. Fruity and residual sugary but basically dry. Minerals abound. The acidity is crisp though less razor-sharp than the Halbtrocken’s. Good length, with some stone fruit and spice joining the lemon and slate. A wine of great purity, this is drinkable now but will reward cellaring for another five years at least. (Buy again? Yes.)

Sorry to say the estate continues the German tradition of providing few specifics about its vine-growing and wine-making. The above two wines may or may not come from old, ungrafted vines and may or may not have been fermented with indigenous yeasts. No info about filtering, fining or added sulphur (though you can usually take the last for granted).

MWG April 14th tasting: flight 2 of 6

Advertisements

Written by carswell

May 30, 2016 at 12:14

3 Responses

Subscribe to comments with RSS.

  1. Any comments on the Ganevat that just arrived ?

    Étienne

    July 23, 2016 at 10:10

    • Are you referring to the Libre K, Étienne? If so, at last Friday’s MWG tasting, Rézin rep Steve Beauséjour was positive enough about it to convince me to lay down $42 for one, more than I’ve ever paid for a bottle of Gamay. I’ve been thinking about opening it this evening, though whether I do will depend on where and what we end up eating (grilling outdoors if the weather’s cooperative, dining indoors at a BYOB if it isn’t). Will post here if/when I pop the cork.

      carswell

      July 23, 2016 at 10:29

    • We tasted the 2014 J’en veux encore and Libre-K at last Friday’s MWG tasting, Étienne. The former is light and charming if a little short. The latter is richer, deeper and more structured. Both are lovely wines but, unless I’m mistaken, everyone present, including myself, thought they were significantly overpriced and no one planned to buy a bottle. Detailed notes will be posted in the next week or two.

      carswell

      August 18, 2016 at 18:29


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s