Brett happens

All wine, most of the time

Bottiglia di Custoza

with 3 comments

Bianco di Custoza 2015, Albino Piona ($19.50, 12469383)
A blend of Garganega (30%), Tocai (aka Sauvignonasse and Sauvignon Vert, 25%), Trebbiano (25%) and Cortese (20%). The varieties are vinified separately. Destemmed, chilled, given a short maceration on the skins, then gently pressed. The must is allowed to clarify by settling, then fermented in temperature-controlled tanks. Maturation on the lees also takes place in tanks. Syncorked. Reducing sugar: 4.2 g/l. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Les vins Dupré.
Given the varieties involved, surprisingly aromatic: white grapes, lemon, yellow apple, a suggestion of peach, lots of chalk dust and a whiff of clean sweat. Smooth and elegant in the mouth. Round and fruity but dry, with soft-glow acidity. Minerals run throughout and swell on the finish, where they are joined by a saline note and a faint Szechuan peppery numbingness. Nothing complex but a pleasure to drink and the kind of white that only Italy can make. Fine as an aperitif and the best wine yet with a tricky pairing: blanched, chopped rapini sautéed in olive oil with garlic, anchovy and chile, with small scallops added for just a few seconds at the end. (Buy again? Yep.)

The heavy bottle, which weighs about twice as much as a lightweight glass bottle, is an unecological and, for case lifters, unergonomic anachronism that should be ditched. It doesn’t lend the product prestige; on the contrary, it subtracts from it.

And, yes, the post’s title is a pun.

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Written by carswell

August 5, 2016 at 12:10

3 Responses

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  1. Good to know! I’d seen this on the shelves and was curious, based on my enjoyment of their Corvina, but hadn’t yet gotten around to it.

    jonah campbell

    August 5, 2016 at 13:00

    • That’s how I ended up with a bottle. Was heading home with scallops and rapini, popped into a store in search of a dry white, spied the Custoza and decided to take a flyer because I’ve so enjoyed Piona’s reds. If you try it, please report back.

      carswell

      August 5, 2016 at 13:43

  2. My curiosity has been stimulated. Most try this bottle

    productionslevin

    August 11, 2016 at 00:36


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