Brett happens

Dâo 2014, Duque de Viseu, Quinta dos Carvalhais/Sogrape ($14.05, 00546309)
Touriga Nacional (55%), Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo, 32%), Alfrocheiro (7%) and Jaen (aka Mencia, 6%). The grapes were destemmed, gently crushed and gravity-fed into temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. Alcoholic fermentation, with regular pump-overs, lasted about six days. After pressing, the wine was transferred to stainless steel vats for malolactic fermentation. Half the finished wine was matured in used French oak barrels, the other half in stainless steel tanks, both for 12 months. Micro-oxygenation is practised. Reducing sugar: 1.7 g/l. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Charton Hobbs.
Intriguing nose: plum, dark berries, fallen leaves, a kischy high note, a hint of rubber and a faint vegetal streak, all of which are echoed on the palate. In the piehole, it’s medium-bodied, full of ripe but not heavy fruit with a slatey substrate, lively acidity and smooth tannins that show some astringent mettle on a credibly long, spice-scented finish. Very drinkable and food friendly (even with white meats, even with non-Portuguese fare), neither industrial nor soulless. This fluent wine is certainly one of the top sub-$15 reds at the SAQ. (Buy again? Sure.)