Brett happens

Vinho Mesa Tinto 2011, Quinta da Serradinha ($23.70, 13286861)
A blend of Baga (35%), Castelão (30%), Touriga Nacional (20%) and Alfrocheiro (15%) from organically farmed vines planted in 1954 on the limestone slopes of the Serra de Aire massif, near Leiria, about 20 km from the temperature-moderating Atlantic. Manually harvested. The destemmed grapes are placed in open vats and foot-trod three times a day. Fermentation lasts 10 days. Matured two years in neutral oak barrels. Unfiltered and unfined. An embossed ladybug (joaninha in Portuguese) sits atop the bottle’s capsule, invariably prompting a second look. Reducing sugar: 1.8 g/l. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Unusual, intriguing nose: slightly candied plum and black raspberry, fragrant blossoms (peony?) and camphor-like fresh herbs. There’s some ink or slate in there too. In the mouth, it’s medium- heading toward full-bodied. The dark flavours (plummy fruit, slate dust, old wood) and grainy density are riddled with – almost contradicted by – zingy acidity. While the tannins seem roundish and resolving at first, a fine astringency fills the mouth and lingers long after the flavours have disappeared. Earthy yet light on its feet, this smoothed and sweetened as it breathed, so it’s definitely carafable. Cool-climate Portuguese wines clearly merit further investigation. (Buy again? Sure.)