Brett happens

Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2012, Vigna Veja, Renato Buganza ($21.55, 13558118)
Founded nearly 60 years ago in Piobesi d’Alba, the 35-hectare estate has 10 hectares of vines (other crops include walnuts and hazelnuts). Total production averages 35,000 bottles a year. The grapes for this 100% Barbera come from vines planted between 1925 and 1968 and rooted in the chalky marl of the 2.94-hectare Pascoli Alti vineyard. Though the estate reportedly makes a few organic wines, this, contrary to SAQ.com’s claim, does not appear to be one of them. Fermentation with manual stirring and rack-and-returns lasts nine days. The resulting wine is pressed and clarified by settling before being racked into stainless steel tanks (90%) and casks (10%) for 12 months for malolactic fermentation and maturation. Reducing sugar: 1.5 g/l. 14% ABV. Quebec agent: Plan Vin.
Outgoing nose of plum, black cherry, dark spice, distant rose, asphalt shingles and kirsch. Medium weight but full-bodied. Rich and dense yet also fluid. Very dry. The fruit is pure and intense on the attack, leaner and drier as the wine moves through the mouth. Slender tannins and sleek acidity provide some structure, a slatey substrate some depth. The alcohol is pervasive: heady up front and flaring on the finish as the other flavours fade. Chilling the wine helps tame the heat though it doesn’t flesh out the finish or ramp up the charm. (Buy again? Meh.)