Brett happens

All wine, most of the time

Sweet and low

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Riesling 2011, Mosel Qualitätswein, Mönchhof (Robert Eymael) ($18.60, 11334920)
Mönchhof’s so-called estate Riesling. Most of the fruit comes from the renowned Würtzgarten vineyard in the town of Ürzig. 9.5% ABV according to the label; 9% according to SAQ.com. Whatever. It’s low.
Faint sulphury matchstick aroma blows off leaving a subtley complex nose: chalk, lemon-lime, white flowers, hints of roast chicken juices and petrol. Light, tingly and a shade sweeter than off-dry. Apple and lemon with minerals and spice in the background. Bright acidity sours and saves the finish. With more presence than the Dr. L, this worked well enough with stir-fried shrimp in garlic chile sauce, though I wouldn’t have complained had it been drier.

Mini rant: What is it about German wineries that prevents them from providing even minimal technical information on their products? Want to know where and how the grapes are grown, how old the vines are, how they’re pressed, what kind of yeasts are used, what kind of containers the wine is fermented and aged in, whether malolactic fermentation is stopped, whether the wines are filtered, fined, sulphured or cold-stabilized? You won’t find any answers on the Mönchhof or Loosen websites and precious few from their distributors and retailers. Who do they think they are? PECers?!

Written by carswell

February 20, 2013 at 10:14

Doktor who?

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Riesling 2011, Dr. L,  Mosel QualitätsweinWeingut Dr. Loosen ($14.45, 10685251)
The estate’s entry-level Riesling is a négociant wine made from grapes bought under long-term contracts. Vinified in stainless steel tanks. 8.5% ABV.
Fresh, classic German Riesling nose: lime, grapefruit, white peach, quartz and slate. Off-dry, though the sweetness is quickly cut by crisp acidity and evanesces before the end. The flavours are light, almost rainwatery, with lemon-lime and green apple overtones. There’s a soft tingle – whether from carbon dioxide, acidity or the minerals is anybody’s guess – and a clean, slatey finish. Surprising that a wine so slender and slight can stand up so well to a fiery pad thai. You can find Rieslings with more substance and backbone for $5 more but you won’t find a better one at this price.

Written by carswell

February 19, 2013 at 10:17

Symbiose’s Jura event at Bocata

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Old Montreal wine bar Bocata has been holding a series of Thursday evening wine and food events in collaboration with various agencies. On January 23, the agency was Symbiose and the theme was the Jura. A friend from Besançon, just outside the Jura, and I made reservations.

With its stone walls, low, rough-beamed wood ceilings, fireplace, bookcases, warm lighting and seating for 30 or 40, the space is cosy, romantic and refreshingly unslick. The regular menu leans toward Spain and southern France, but ours was a Jurassic prix fixe: four courses for $40 or five for $45, wines included. We went the latter route.

The starter was a beautifully presented oyster on the half shell covered with a mince of sour apple and fennel, a credible match for the Côtes-du-Jura 2010, Naturé, Domaine Berthet-Bondet ($29.77, Symbiose, 6 bottles/case). Naturé, one of Savagnin‘s former aliases, is now used exclusively to refer to unoxidized Savagnins. This one had a nose of straw, brine and preserved lemon with a musky Sauvignon-like cat pee note. In the mouth, it was rich and round on the surface but had plenty of underlying acidity and a long, rainwatery finish.

The Côtes-du-Jura 2011, Rubis, Domaine Berthet-Bondet (NLA) is a blend of Trousseau (60%), Poulsard (30%) and Pinot Noir (10%). True to its name, the wine is a limpid pale red. With coaxing, the stern, faintly bretty nose of shale and burned match gave up scents of crushed raspberries (fruit and leaves). Light-bodied, minerally and tart, it had a silky texture, shy fruit and not much depth. The finish brought a surprising note of orange peel. What the wine needed was food to perk it up, and this it got in an earthy bowl of Puy lentils flavoured with smoky Morteau sausage.

Next, a dish – actually a shallow bowl – of mussels and scallops, the latter cut into mussel-size pieces, in a curry-scented carrot soup/sauce/purée: an excellent match for the L’Étoile 2008, Domaine de Montbourgeau, which had wowed the MWG in November 2011. (The 2010 is currently available at the SAQ ($21.55, 11557541).) Made from Chardonnay and possibly a little co-planted Savagnin, it spends around 18 months in 230-litre oak barrels and 600-litre demi muids. A middleweight that flowed smoothly on the palate, this had a classic, complex nose of browning apple, marzipan, hazelnuts, corn silage and dried pine needles. The lightly oxidized fruit was brightened by acidity and did a slow-fade on the long finish. A complete wine, lacking nothing.

By this point, we had become seriously impressed with the food – not just the execution, which was flawless, but also the clear knowledge of how to pair dishes with Jura wines. How many local chefs appreciate curry’s affinity for oxidized Jura whites, let alone use the spice with such an elegant hand? We asked the waiter to transmit our compliments to the chef. Before long, he stopped at our table: young, Limousin native Benjamin Léonard, who, it turns out, did a stint at Arbois’s top restaurant (two Michelin stars), Jean-Paul Jeunet.

The next wine was the Arbois-Pupillin 2009, Les Vianderies, Domaine de la Renardière ($29.84, Symbiose, 12 bottles/case), a small-production, old-vine Chardonnay cuvée. Fermentation and maturation last 18 months and take place in 500-litre tonneaux. This had a wafting nose of lemon, hawthorn and chalk with a hint of smoke and ash. On the palate, it was dry, fresh and pure – very chalky and citrusy – a lovely wine whose only weak point seemed its fleeting finish. Still, it made a fine pairing for the most accomplished dish of the evening: a moist, meltingly tender round of turkey breast stuffed with foie gras, cooked sous vide, served in a foamy vin jaune sauce and garnished with hedgehog mushrooms and a few tiny nuggets of sautéed foie gras.

Lastly, accompanied by an 18-month Comté, came a 2005 Château Chalon, Domaine Berthet-Bondet (NLA). Aromatically dazzling: walnut, curry powder, dried corn, almond, even a little banana peel. Delicate, minerally, subtly oxidized in the mouth. Rich but dry in a Fino-like way, with fine but sustained acidity. Not as deep or rich as some yet elegant and beautiful all the same.

To say we were satisfied would be the understatement of the century. The QPR was off the charts; we would have considered it a bargain to have paid $45 for the food alone. This may have been a case of the planets aligning – a Jura-trained chef egged on by a Jura-enamoured agent and given free rein to concoct a Jura-inspired tasting menu to accompany a series of fine Jura wines – but the overall quality was so high, I doubt it was only that. Both my friend and I plan to return to check out the regular menu.

Two more Bocata wine events – both even more affordable than the Jura tasting – are planned for February: Rézin and Beaujolais on the 21st and oenopole and Greek terroirs on the 28th. And it looks like there may soon be some interesting local developments on the Jura front. Stay tuned for details.

Written by carswell

February 17, 2013 at 12:45

An OK wine but a middling Pinot

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Pinot Noir 2010, Marlborough, Yealands Estate ($20.00,  11640521)
100% sustainably farmed Pinot Noir. The estate is also carbonZero-certifed. Contrary to the SAQ’s claim, the grapes are from the Awatere Valley in Marlbourough, not Central Otago. Cold-macerated for about a week, then warmed and inoculated with selected yeasts and fermented fast and hot with regular manual punch-downs. After pressing, the wine was transferred to French oak barrels (30% new). Fined with egg whites before blending and bottling. 13% ABV according to the label; 14% ABV according to SAQ.com.
A little cherry on the nose along with some spice, charred aromas and a whiff of alcohol: it doesn’t pinote. Medium-bodied, the texture a bit glyceriny. Not exuberantly fruity, though the fruit is more apparent than on the nose. There’s a strong undercurrent of acidity and some light tannins. The finish is an odd combination of heat, vanilla and milk chocolate with a bitter streak that outlasts them all. The wine sweetened and gained a licorice note after 30 minutes, the bitterness turning more peppery, the components integrating into a more harmonious whole, so carafe and chill slightly before serving. You’ll then find yourself in the presence of an OK wine but a middling Pinot.

Written by carswell

February 16, 2013 at 12:42

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The new SAQ.com: cons (miscellaneous)

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Product pages

  • Vintages are no longer shown for inexpensive wines.
  • Wines in outlets may not be the vintage shown online or, when two or more vintages are available, no vintage may be shown online.
  • The product info doesn’t include a link to the producer’s website. (EDIT 13/02/17: Looks like they’re doing it for some large producers, e.g. Cousiño-Macul.)
  • The product info doesn’t include the agency that represents the producer in Quebec.
  • The information for specific products (taste tags, tasting notes, drinkability windows, etc.) appears to be one-size-fits-all-vintages.

Customization

  • There’s no “wish list” or “favourites” function. Want to make a shopping list to take with you to the store? You’re going to have to print each product’s info or availability page or copy and paste the names into a word processor or another application.
  • There’s very little in the way of personalization aside from a “favourite outlets” list.
  • Why doesn’t the site remember my postal code? Or point me to the nearest outlet that has the product when none of my selected outlets does? Or adapt its product suggestions to my search and purchase history? Amazon can do this but not the SAQ?

Weak translations

  • The “practical tools” should be useful tools.
  • Mead is here called “honey wine.” Go figure.
  • No anglophone would ever say “terroir product,” which should probably be translated as Quebec product.
  • The alcool category should be called the neutral grain spirit (or neutral alcohol) category in English; instead it’s “alcohol.”
  • “Empyreumatic” means nothing to 99.9% of anglos, isn’t found in most dictionaries (e.g. the Canadian Oxford and Merriam Webster’s, though it is defined on merriam-webster.com) and would be better rendered as charred or burned aromas.
  • One of the price ranges is “$40.00 and more.” “$40.00 and over” sounds more idomatic to me.
  • Literally topping them all, the HTML title “Wines, alcohols & spirits” is a calque of the French Vins, alcools, spiritueux. Do anglos even use “alcohols” in everyday speech? And, regardless, what can it possibly mean here? A better translation would surely be something like “Wine, beer and spirits” or “Wine and liquor.”

Assorted WTFs

  • No info is provided on how to order and return private imports, which account for a significant and growing percentage of the SAQ’s sales, especially among buyers of specialty products.
  • There’s no direct link to the online shop. You have to click a product category (e.g. wine) and then filter the results by selecting the online option.
  • People who use the online shop complain that they can’t save a session and return to complete it later.
  • Since the Our Suggestions products do not reflect the user’s preferences (as established by his/her search and purchase history), they’re useless. They’ve got nothing to do with products you might like, everything to do with products the SAQ wants to move. “Featured products” would be a more honest description. And, just wondering, but does the SAQ charge producers/agencies to display their products here?

Written by carswell

February 14, 2013 at 12:24

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The new SAQ.com: cons (search engine and results)

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While searches are much improved on the new site, they’re far from perfect.

  • The typing cursor used to default to the search box on every page. Now it doesn’t. You now have to click the search box before entering your search string. Why?
  • The search engine doesn’t recognize Boolean or other operators. The search string alsace -riesling displays – wait for it – Rieslings. Why can’t I search for every Alsatian product that isn’t a Riesling?
  • From the search results page, you used to be able to get to the Availability in Outlets page with one click. Now if you click the Available in Outlets bar under the product’s picture, it takes you to the product info page, where you then have to click the Availability in Outlets button.
  • Narrowing the search results down to a district of a city used to require selecting an option from a single drop-down menu. Now it requires selecting a option from two drop-down menus (more clicks, more mousing).
  • The search results take up far more real estate. On my monitor at the site’s default size setting, I see the full results for a grand total of four products and partial results for four more. To see the remaining 12 products (at the default setting of 20 results per page), I have to scroll.
  • You can’t select more than one option in a filter. If you want to know which champagnes are available in 375 ml and 500 ml formats, you have to do two searches.
  • The Price filter tops out at $40. That’s too low a bar these days: there are currently more than 3,000 wines that meet that description! I’m often asked to recommend an expensive bottle to mark a wine lover’s birthday or anniversary, so it’s clear people would find it useful to search for bottles priced between, say $75 and $125. Or sparklers over $150. You can’t do that now.
  • The Price filter brackets over $20 are too broad: $20.00 to $29.99; $30.00 to $39.99; $40 and more. At the very least, the ranges should be in increments of $4.99.
  • On the other hand, why not just let users set their own price range parameters? It’s not hard to imagine people looking for wines that cost, say, $30 give or take a couple of bucks. Why can’t they set the price range filter for $28 to $32? As it stands now, they’d have to do a search for bottles between $20 and $29.99 and then another search for bottles between $30 and $39.99 and then sort each set of results by price. Same thing if you’re looking for a product between $20 and $40. Ridiculous!
  • When you search for a product’s availability based on your postal code or district, the results are displayed as a list. Why not on a map?
  • You still can’t display a given outlet’s inventory (reportedly to come in a future version).
  • ADDED 13/02/18: The product descriptions on the Availability in Outlets pages have been condensed to the point of obscurity. For example, take the two currently available wines from Clos Canarelli. Vintage, price and SAQ code aside, the descriptions for the red and white are identical. Unless you remember that the red is the 2010, say, or the white runs $39.25, you’re not going to know which product’s availability you’re looking at. The description on the product info page includes the category (e.g. red wine) and size (e.g. 750 ml). Why not include them on the availability page too?
  • ADDED 13/06/09: The search engine distinguishes between accented and unaccented characters. It shouldn’t. Many anglos (and quite a few francos) don’t type accents or don’t know how to. Confounding the issue, the SAQ is inconsistent, sometimes spelling Barmès (as in Barmès Buecher) with the accent and other times without. As a result, searching for barmès currently finds four wines (three of them from Barmès Buecher) while searching for barmes finds three different Barmès Buecher wines. In an ideal world, searching for barmès or barmes would turn up all seven wines.
  • ADDED 13/07/31: Language discrimination! Plug Noilly into the French SAQ.com search engine and you’ll get back: Cinzano extra sec, Martini sec and Stock extra sec. Plug it into the English engine and you’ll get back zilch.

Written by carswell

February 14, 2013 at 12:08

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The new SAQ.com: cons (look and feel)

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Sad but true: the list of nits to pick with the new SAQ.com is too long for a single post. Here then is the first instalment, my complaints about the site’s overall look and feel.

  • Way too busy: sensory overload.
  • The layout elements (banner ads, pictures, menu names, element titles, etc.) are too big, take up far too much real estate. It may look good on a tablet but it’s lousy on a desktop monitor, even a fairly high pixel-count monitor like mine (1920 x 1080).
  • The reduce text option does only that – reduces the text size but not the size of the graphics and major titles, which is what one really wants to shrink.
  • The sizes of the various layout elements are disproportionate. When I use CTRL-minus to reduce the graphics, menu names and element titles to a reasonable size, one that lets me see most of the page without scrolling, one that doesn’t force me to look side to side to take it all in, the product details become too small to read easily, a problem compounded by their being printed in grey, not black.
  • THE WIDESPREAD USE OF ALL CAPS SHARPLY REDUCES READABILITY.
  • The home page banner animation is on by default: you have to click the pause button each time to stop the distraction. What’s more, the animation’s a continuous loop. Don’t know about you, but the first thing I do when returning to the home page is rush to hit Pause.
  • The banner animation is too fast. You don’t always have time to take in the content before the next banner is displayed.
  • Oh, the dumbing down! Too much eye candy at the expense of useful information.
  • Too much redundancy. For example, the front page currently has four links to the food pairing engine: “Tips and Pairings” at the top of the page; “So happy together” under the Tchin Tchin graphic; “Wine and food pairings” the first  of the so-called practical tools; and “Wine and food pairings” under the Tips and Pairings menu at the the bottom of the page.
  • Seldom used links (e.g. the “practical tools”) are far too prominent.
  • Irrelevant links (e.g. “our suggestions”) are too prominent.
  • The site looks horrible on small-screen (e.g. smartphone) browsers. As Thomas commented yesterday, the lack of a dedicated mobile site is a major fail.
  • People who visit the site on tablets complain that it’s hard to scroll without inadvertently selecting a link.
  • As will be detailed in coming posts, the new site increases the amount of clicking, scrolling and general mousing required of users. If anything, it should have done the opposite.

Written by carswell

February 14, 2013 at 11:40

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The new SAQ.com: pros

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With much fanfare, the SAQ launched its new website on February 4. There are definitely some improvements. Below are the things I like about it. A much longer list of things that, in my opinion, need work will be posted in a day or two.

Like the new SAQ.com, these pro and con posts are a work in progress and will be updated and corrected as I get to know the site better and as friends and readers provide input.

  • It’s taken a few days, but I’ve come to appreciate the drop-down mouseover menus at the top of the page.
  • The search engine is far superior to its predecessor: typo correction, suggested completions, fuzzy logic, search on multiple terms (e.g. Alsace Reisling 2008).
  • The options for filtering search results are nicely implemented via a sidebar on the results page.
  • The product size (format) filters are more granular and easier to understand and use (e.g. “750 ml” vs. the former “376 ml to 750 ml”).
  • The Price filter can now be set with a single click.
  • The new On Sale filter lets you display all the discounted products in a category. Similarly, you can limit searches to special categories like Cellier or Courrier vinicole products.
  • Your search and viewing history are displayed (though only the last three products).
  • The product information is often more extensive and includes the constituent grape varieties for many wines (it remains to be seen how regularly it will be updated).
  • Product photos can now be enlarged, often to the point where you can actually read what’s on the label.
  • While far from perfect, the automated food pairing suggestions are better implemented and more useful than on most other sites.
  • Page matching between the French and English sites is finally implemented (on the former site, if you were looking at say, a product page or news release on the French site and clicked the English button, you were taken to the English site’s home page and had to repeat your search. Now you’re taken to the equivalent page.)
  • Product page URLs are shorter and more comprehensible.
  • MapQuest is out, Google Maps is in.
  • The Useful Links and Resources page is much improved though in many ways it remains rudimentary (e.g. no links to English-language blogs, including this one, and only one link to a local French-language blog, Vin Québec).
  • Corporate information, such as policies, procedures, cellar rentals, previous-year annual reports and even director biographies, is newly available or more easily accessible.

Written by carswell

February 13, 2013 at 13:45

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Mystery white

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Orvieto 2011, Tragugnano, Sergio Mottura ($19.25, 11660830)
A blend of organically farmed, well, what? The winemaker and the Quebec agent say Grechetto (50%), Procanico (40%) and Sauvignon Blanc (10 %). Several retailers and reviewers, including the Gazette’s Bill Zacharkiw, say Procanico, Verdello (by which they surely mean not the Iberian grape but… what? Friuli’s Verduzzo?) and Grechetto. I’m going with the winemaker since I get whiffs of Sauvignon. Whichever variety they are, the grapes come from the estate’s oldest vineyard and are vinified separately and blended just before bottling. Fermented (with selected yeasts) and matured (on the lees until the spring) in stainless steel vats. 13.5% ABV.
Lemon blossom and stones with a hint of gooseberry, powdered mustard and dried pine needles. Soft, round, even a little sweet-seeming on entry: quite extracted though not what you’d call fruity. Citrusy acid and minerals surge on the mid-palate and are joined by a bitterness that lingers through the clean, dry, lemon leaf finish. The combination of richness and minerally bite is special – Zacharkiw talks about Chablis but I keep returning to certain Alvarhinos and Godellos.

Not a good match for bay scallops and blanched, chopped rapini sautéed together in olive oil with minced anchovy, garlic and chile. The rapini brought out the wine’s bitter streak while the anchovy and garlic did a number on the fruit. In isolation the scallops worked with the wine, indicating that simply prepared seafood might be the way to go. Or try the winemaker’s suggestion of fresh pecorino or mozzarella with tomato and basil.

Written by carswell

February 11, 2013 at 10:23

Sausage love

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Forget those overpriced Valentine meals prepared by bored chefs and served by jaded waiters in stuffy restaurants. On February 14, sausage lovers, wine lovers and just plain lovers will be heading to the Nouveau Palais for a hit of Pork Futures goodness (sweet or spicy love sausage sandwiches with fries and coleslaw) and glass after drinkable glass of — what else? — San Valentino wines poured by oenopole.

The third annual St. Valentine’s Sausage Party
Thursday, February 14, 2013
17:30 to midnight (or until they run out of sausages)
Nouveau Palais
281 Bernard St. West, Montreal

Written by carswell

February 8, 2013 at 18:44

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