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Posts Tagged ‘Lombardy

A flight to remember

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Rosso di Valtellina 2013, Ar.Pe.Pe. ($36.50, 12257997)
100% Nebbiolo from vines grown in the lower parts of the estate’s Sassella and Grumello vineyards. The farming is mostly organic. Manually harvested. Cold-macerated a couple of days before fermentation. Fermented in vats with indigenous yeasts. Matured three months in 50-hectolitre wood barrels (oak, chestnut and acacia) and five months in the bottle. Reducing sugar: 1.5 g/l. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
A fragrant mix of red cherry, blood orange, violets, tar, “the ashtrays at Cinéma Parallèle,” a vegetal note and eventually beef consommé. Technically medium-bodied, though delicate may be a more accurate descriptor. The balance between ripe fruit, fluent acidity and supple tannins is ideal. A rumbling of dark minerals lasts into the long, clean finish. Direct and to the point, maybe even simple, yet the purity and freshness of the fruit are an unadulterated delight. As if to remind us that wine is a living and therefore variable thing, another bottle tasted a few days later was rough-edged and sharply acidic. You pays your money and you takes your chances. (Buy again? Will definitely take my chances on this one.)

Boca 2010, Le Piane ($72.50, 12817114)
An appellation that nearly vanished but is now enjoying a revival, in no small part due to Le Piane. Starting with a half-hectare vineyard, the estate has acquired other plots and reclaimed abandoned vineyards from the forest. It now totals eight hectares. This is a blend of Nebbiolo (85%) and Vespolina (15%) from a mix of 30- to 50-year-old vines and vines planted between 1998 and 2004. The farming is mostly organic. Fermented on the skins with indigenous yeasts and daily punch-downs in open steel and wood casks (2000-3000 litres). After pressing, the wine was transferred to large Slavonian oak barrels for maturation. Lightly filtered before bottling. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Cherries and red berries, clay, leather, a drop of balsamic vinegar and a hint of banana peel, then rose and pastrami spice. In weight, texture and delineation, positively Burgundian. The ripe-sweet fruit is laced with iron and slate, framed with silky tannins and carried on a fresh current of acidity. New layers of flavour and aroma – veils might be the better word here – appear with each swirl and sip. Gains an earthy note on the long finish. How can a wine be simultaneously so vibrant and so ethereal? Pricey but, in its way, perfect. Drinking beautifully now if carafed well in advance and likely capable of ageing for a decade or more. (Buy again? Definitely.)

Barolo 2011, Brovia ($64.00, 12831266)
100% Nebbiolo from organically farmed vines planted in 1971, 1974 and 1993 in various vineyards in the Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba production areas. The manually harvested fruit is lightly pressed and destemmed. Macerated and fermented in temperature-controlled (28°C) tanks for 15 to 20 days. Matured in 30-hectolitre Slavonian and French oak casks for two years. Unfiltered. 14.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Les Vins de Dame Jeanne.
Marzipan, cherry, “felt pen,” dried tarragon, eventually rose. Sumptuously fruited and beautifully structured; the sleek acidity and round, firm tannins confer a velvety texture. Complex, layered and long, with a tarry note colouring the finish. Surprisingly open and expressive for such a young Barolo. A gorgeous wine. For a Barolo of this quality, the price is more than reasonable. (Buy again? Definitely.)

Not surprisingly, the tasters spent far more time than usual smelling, tasting and discussing the wines in this flight and seemed reluctant to empty their glasses.

MWG March 31st tasting: flight 6 of 6

Written by carswell

May 17, 2016 at 13:01

May 19th MWG tasting: report

with 2 comments

Quick notes on 18 (well, 17) of the 22 wines in the first Cellier Summer 2011 release. Most are still available, though the Gros Noré rosé and Venus red are disappearing fast.

FLIGHT 1: THREE CHARDONNAYS

Mâcon-Fuissé 2009, Le Haut de Fuissé, Pierre Vessigaud ($22.35, 11419659)
Organically farmed Chardonnay from a rarely seen appellation. Pleasing if muted nose of lemon and chalk. Round and less than bone dry, the sweetness softening the bright acidity. Plump surface, firm core. Long, minerally finish. Not a show-stopper but quite delicious. Great QPR. (Buy again? Yes.)

Montagny 1er cru 2009, Les Platières, Domaine Feuillat-Juillot ($25, 11416343)
Lemon bright with a fresh herb note. Less rich than the other wines in the flight, not in itself a bad thing. Clean, balanced and long. Enjoyable enough but not really memorable. (Buy again? No, not at that price.)

Chardonnay 2007, Hunting Hill (North Island), Kumeu River Wines ($37.50, 11416159)
Rich but not heavy on the nose and in the mouth. Spice, butter, oats and a hint of butterscotchy oak. Ripe fruit and residual sugar balanced by the wine’s acidity and depth. Lemon and minerals mark the long finish. Good aging potential. New Worldish but not turning its back on Burgundy. (Buy again? If I decide to grill a lobster at some point, sure.)

FLIGHT 2: THREE PURPORTEDLY LOBSTER-FRIENDLY WHITES

Crozes-Hermitage 2009, Les Terres Blanches, Domaine Belle ($26.25, 11400958)
Around two-thirds Marsanne and one-third Roussanne. Subtle but deep nose: yellow fruit and wax with herb and floral notes. Dense yet balanced in the mouth, not lacking freshness. Shows a bit of alcohol on the bitter-tinged finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)

Montlouis-sur-Loire 2007, Les Choisilles, François Chidaine ($30.50, 11153176)
A last-minute replacement for the Cellier bottle of Chidaine’s 2006 Les Tuffeaux left on my kitchen counter. Appealing nose: hints of wax, melon and tropical fruit, especially pineapple. Mouth-coating texture bordering on unctuous, a feeling only augmented by the sec-tendre level of residual sugar. Peach on the mid-palate. Not particularly deep but pleasant. Touch of alcohol on the long finish. (Buy again? Probably not, when Huet’s Vouvrays are available in the same price range.)

Pinot Gris 2008, Marlborough, Seresin Estate ($25.65, 11420078)
Fermented with native yeasts. Somewhat perfumy nose with hints of vanilla and tropical fruit. Rich, off-dry with spicy white fruit flavours. Sits heavily on the palate. Long, hot finish (14.5%). Hefty, simplistic: an oaf of a wine. (Buy again? No.)

FLIGHT 3: FIVE ROSÉS, MOSTLY BUILT AROUND GRENACHE

Garda Classico Chiaretto 2009, RosaMara, Costaripa ($20.35, 11415121)
Groppello, Marzemino, Sangiovese and Barbera. About half is fermented and aged in small barrels, the other half in stainless steel. Lightly fragrant nose: dusty flowers. Dry and soft on the palate, more floral than fruity, with just enough acidity and a lingering bitter (almond?) note. A charmer. (Buy again? Yes.)

Coteaux d’Aix en Provence 2010, Les Béatines, Domaine des Béates ($21, La QV)
Organically farmed Grenache Noir (75%) and Syrah (25%). An appealing mingle of wild strawberries, pink grapefuit, nectarine, sun-baked earth and garrigue. Clean, balanced, minerally and refreshing. Red Delicious note on the finish. The most popular wine of the flight. (Buy again? Yes.)

Coteaux du Languedoc 2010, Mas Jullien ($22.95, 11419595)
Cinsault, Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre from 20- to 30-year-old vines. Made using the saignée method and natural yeasts. Not allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation. Almost dark enough to be a red. Complex, savoury, fruity (nectarine, strawberry) and spicy. Rich yet fluid thanks to the wine’s acidity, dryness and mineral substrate. Pure fruit on the attack, a hint of caramel and a bit of heat on the earthy finish.  Definitely a food wine. Tail-end was even better the next day. (Buy again? Yes.)

Bandol 2009, Domaine du Gros Noré ($26.85, 11416837)
40% Mourvèdre, 40% Cinsault, 20% Grenache. Perfumy, peppery nose with hints of garrigue, pink grapefruit and rhubarb. On the palate, quite dry and savoury, complex with pale fruit. Impeccable balance. Good length. Will probably be even better in a year. (Buy again? Definitely.)

Côtes de Provence 2009, Whispering Angel, Château d’Esclans ($22.15, 11416984)
Grenache (73%), Rolle (4%), Cinsault (9%), Syrah (8.5%) and Mourvedre (5.5%). The palest rosé I’ve ever seen; if it weren’t for the pink (as opposed to yellow or green) cast, it could pass for a white. Garrigue, grapefruit pith, peach. Delicate, fruity attack fast-fades to a rainwatery finish with a soft but persistent bitter note. (Buy again? Probably not.)

FLIGHT 4: TWO CATALONIAN REDS

Priorat 2006, Embruix, Vall Llach ($33.75, 10508131)
Mostly young-vine Garnacha (34%), Cariñena (22%), Cabernet Sauvignon (21%), Syrah (19%) and Merlot (4%). Layered nose: spice, plum, fresh-turned earth, sawed wood, ink, horsehair. Fruity attack, structured mid-palate, with oak chiming in on the long finish. Vibrant and surprisingly fresh for a 15.5% ABV wine, though as it warmed the alcohol became more apparent. (Buy again? 15.5%?! Probably not.)

Montsant 2008, Dido, Venus la Universal ($23, 11376994)
Mostly Grenache with some Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Ripe fruit, tobacco, leather, roasting coffee and a floral note (peony?). Smooth, rich, structured, complete. Sweet fruit attack, earthy, minerally finish. The 14% ABV is very well hidden. A favourite of nearly everyone around the table. (Buy again? Yes, provided I can lay my hands on some.)

FLIGHT 5: FIVE REDS FROM CASTILLA Y LEÓN

Rioja Reserva 2005, Bodegas LAN ($24.15, 11414145)
Tempranillo (80%), Mazuelo (10%) and Garnacha (10%). Spent around 12 months in American and French oak barrels. Wet clay, plum, slate and a hint of vanilla. Smooth on the palate with soft fruit and a good hit of oak. Structured and balanced enough to age another five years. (Buy again? Probably not, though fans of oaky wines needn’t hesitate.)

Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León 2007, Altos Del Duratón, Bodegas Ribera del Duraton ($18.55, 11387343)
Tempranillo (85%) and Syrah (15%). Spent eight months in French oak barrels. Spice, candied black raspberry, roasted coffee. Not quite a gros rouge qui tâche but getting there. Oak dominates the fruit. Not terrible but in no way memorable. (Buy again? No.)

Ribera del Duero 2006, Robles, Ecologica, Dominio Basconcillos ($22.60, 11413441)
Organically farmed Tinta del País (aka Tempranillo). Spent 12 months in American and French oak barrels. Spicy plum, turned earth, hint of iodine.  Rich and fruity with a mouth-coating texture and oak and alcohol in check. Not much in the way of structure or depth but pleasant enough drinking. (Buy again? Probably not.)

Toro 2006, San Román, Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos ($48, 11412852)
100% Tinta de Toro (aka Tempranillo). Spends two years in French and American barrels of various ages. Piña colada gives way to soy sauce and choco-cherry. Rich and round. Fruit and oak are deep but, for now, somewhat primary. Velvety tannins and lots of acidity. Long finish. Needs time but should knit together into a classy wine. (Buy again? Could be tempted.)

Bierzo 2007, Losada Vinos de Finca ($23.55, 11377874)
Old-vine Mencía grown on clay (not the appellation’s famous schist). Spent nine months in new French oak. The estate has adopted some organic and biodynamic techniques but hasn’t been certified. Complex and classy, redolent of dark fruit, spice, minerals and oak. Extracted but not to a fault. Light, tight tannins. Roasted and spice (anise?) aromas join the fruit on the long finish. An atypical Bierzo but none the worse for it: surprisingly balanced and vibrant. Many tasters thought this was the $48 San Román and were delighted to find it cost half as much. (Buy again? Yes.)

Written by carswell

May 21, 2011 at 10:45

MWG fifth anniversary tasting: report

with one comment

The Mo’ Wine Group’s December tasting is always special. The conjunction of the group’s anniversary and the impending holidays means sparklers are mandatory. We also have a tradition of combining the sublime with a few wines that are at least a little odd and sometimes downright ridiculous.

The prices shown are those paid in December, before the 1% increase in the Quebec sales tax that took effect on January 1, 2011.

FLIGHT 1: A JAPANESE WINE

Isehara 2008, Koshu, Magrez-Aruga ($35.00, 11213360)
100% Koshu. Sour apple, chalk, clover and a suggestion of vinyl. Dry and intensely acidic. Minerals but next to no fruit save a hint of grapefruit on finish. Seems dilute and watery until you focus on it. Clean and long but lacking depth. (Buy again? Only for curiosity’s sake.)

FLIGHT 2: FOUR SAKES

Junmai Ginjo, Taisetsu no Kura, Kinuyuki, Godo Shusei Co. ($29.65, 10758721)
Salty, sourish nose with whiffs of licorice and alcohol. Oily texture, neutral flavour with a briny edge. Hint of sweetness, though not enough to merit the SAQ’s demi-sec descriptor. Not bad. (Buy again? Probably not.)

Junmai Ginjo, Hakushika (Tatsuuma-Honke Brewing Co.) ($22.10, 11156570)
Smooth, round, rainwatery with briny, green tea overtones and a hint of banana peel. Not particularly complex. Enjoyable on its own but returning to it after a sip of either Takasago shows what’s missing. (Buy again? Maybe.)

Junmai Ginjo, Hakusan, Takasago ($37.00, 11156537)
Nose of wet cotton with a hint of dates and umami overtones (mushroom, soy sauce). Not as unctuous as the other Junmai Ginjos: less dense, more acidic, drier. Impression of purity. Good length. Very fine. (Buy again? Yes.)

Dai Ginjo, Hakusan, Takasago ($81.50, 11156545)
Lovely, complex, subtle nose: minerals, lemon, wax, pastry dough. Ethereal texture that I described as silky but another taster likened to rose petals. Delicate and balanced in the mouth with only a hint of sweetness. Bitter mineral notes at the back of the palate. Very long. An elegant and beautiful sake that can withstand comparison to similarly priced wines. (Buy again? Sure, if the price weren’t so prohibitive.)

FLIGHT 3: FOUR SPARKLING WHITES

Crémant de Loire, Brut, Cuvée Flamme, Gratien & Meyer ($19.70, 11177856)
60% Chardonnay, 25% Cabernet Franc, 15% Chenin Blanc. Spicy apple aromas, fruit salad flavours. Clean and dry with somewhat aggressive bubbles and a savoury/toasty finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)

Crémant de Bourgogne, Brut, Prestige, Moingeon ($20.60, 00871277)
100% Chardonnay. Inexpressive nose: hints of white fruit and brioche. Fine bead. Foams softly in the mouth. Clean, nuanced and quite dry. Long, yellow apple finish. Elegant. Champagne-like. (Buy again? Yes.)

Cava, Brut Selectio, Parés Baltà ($29.90, 10896390)
Xarel-lo, Chardonnay, Macabeo and Parellada . Candied lemon and fruit salad armoas. Clean flavours of minerals, straw and almonds. Forceful bubbles. Very dry. Fair length. (Buy again? Maybe.)

Crémant de Limoux 2008, Tête de Cuvée, Clos des Demoiselles, J. Laurens ($20.90, 10498973)
Chardonnay, Chenin and Pinot Noir. Candied nuts and fruit cake on the nose. Suave with soft bubbles, tropical fruit turning appley on the finish. Clean, bright, savoury and long. Excellent QPR. (Buy again? Definitely.)

FLIGHT 4: FOUR SPARKLING ROSÉS

Franciacorta 2005, Brut Rosé Millesimato, Fratus, Riccafana ($25.35, 11140711)
Organically farmed Pinot Noir (80%) and Chardonnay (20%). Smells fruity (red apple peel, strawberry) yet somehow dry. Fine bead. Considerable presence in the mouth. Dry with hints of peach and toast. Good length. (Buy again? Yes.)

Burgenland 2005, Oeil de Perdrix, Schloss Halbturn ($37.95, 6 bottles/case, Sublime Vins & Spiriteux)
100% Pinot Noir. Pale off-pink. Savoury nose with hints of sweat, peach and quince. Smooth with soft bubbles. Some residual sugar. Long. Enjoyable. The group liked this enough to order a case. A second bottle opened during the holidays didn’t show quite as well: Candied red berries on the nose. Noticeable sweetness on the attack, though turning dry on the mid-palate. Half-sparkling. Elegant in the glass but shorter than remembered; “ça tombe vite,” one diner noted. (Buy again? Yes.)

Champagne 2007, Saignée de Sorbée, Vouette & Sorbée ($81.25, Rézin)
100% Pinot Noir, organically farmed. Vibrant dark pink. Explosive nose of candied apple, spice, sweat and volatile herbs – a mix that one taster likens to cheap cologne. Very dry yet wild-fruity, even a bit foxy. Bitter-edged finish. Despite the good acidity and elegant effervescence, the wine seems heavy and cloying. (Buy again? Nope.)

FLIGHT 5: THREE CHAMPAGNES

Champagne 2007, Cuvée Fidèle, Vouette & Sorbée ($59.75, Rézin)
Blanc de noirs: 100% organically farmed Pinot Noir. Toast, oxidized apple and a sourish note on the nose. Understated and elegant, with fine bubbles and a clean, briny finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)

Champagne 2007, Blanc d’Argile, Vouette & Sorbée ($73.00, Rézin)
Blanc de blancs: 100% organically farmed, young vine Chardonnay. Extended maturation in oak casks. Undosed. Banana bread on the nose. Assertive but not aggressive bubbles. Winey and appley on the attack. Very pure on the mid-palate. Longish, minerally finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)

Champagne 2000, Avise, Grand Cru, Jacquesson ($108.75, 00871384)
100% Chardonnay. Extended maturation in oak casks. Intriguing if slightly odd nose: yeast, white fruit, coral. “Truffle in a swimming pool,” says one taster. “You haven’t cleaned your goldfish bowl in a while,” quips another. Any doubts are dispelled with the first sip: here we have a nuanced and layered wine. Elegant, rich and long, with caressing bubbles and an oxidized, chestnut honey note on the finish. (Buy again? Maybe in Ontario, where it goes for $95.)

FLIGHT 6: THE TRULY SUBLIME

Champagne, Blanc de blancs, Brut, Initial, Jacques Selosse ($150.00, oenopole)
100% Chardonnay. A blend of three vintages. Aged in bottle two years before disgorgement. Astoundingly complex and savoury nose with notes of white meat (veal, poultry), brioche and butter. White fruit and an intriguing sourness on entry. Fine and persistent bubbles, layers of flavour. Exquisitely balanced fruit and acid. Endless finish. In a class by itself. (Buy again? Just as soon as I win the lottery.)

Isehara 2008, Koshu, Magrez-Aruga ($35.00, 11213360)

100% Koshu. Sour apple, chalk, clover and a suggestion of vinyl. Dry, intensely acidic. Minerals but next to no fruit, save a hint of grapefruit on finish. Seems dilute and watery until you focus on it. Clean and long but lacking depth. (Buy again? Only for curiosity’s sake.)

http://www.bernard-magrez.com/content/en/magrez-aruga-japan

http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/fg20061208wc.html

Junmai Ginjo, Taisetsu no Kura, Kinuyuki, Godo Shusei Co. ($29.65, 10758721)

Salty, sourish nose with whiffs of licorice and alcohol. Oily texture, neutral flavour with a briny edge. Hint of sweetness, though not enough to merit the SAQ’s demi-sec descriptor. Not bad. (Buy again? Probably not.)

http://www.oenon.jp/

Junmai Ginjo, Hakushika (Tatsuuma-Honke Brewing Co.) ($22.10, 11156570)

Smooth, round, rainwatery with briny, green tea overtones and a hint of banana peel. Not particularly complex. Enjoyable on its own but returning to it after a sip of either Takasago shows what’s missing. (Buy again? Maybe.)

http://www.hakushika.co.jp/

Junmai Ginjo, Hakusan, Takasago ($37.00, 11156537)

Takasago is one of the oldest breweries in Hokkaido. Nose of wet cotton with a hints of dates and umami overtones (mushroom, soy sauce). Not as unctuous as the other Junmai Ginjos: less dense, more acidic, drier. Impression of purity. Good length. Very fine. (Buy again? Yes.)

http://www.takasagoshuzo.com/

Dai Ginjo, Hakusan, Takasago ($81.50, 11156545)

Lovely, complex, subtle nose: minerals, lemon, wax, pastry dough. Etherial texture that I described as silky but another taster likened to rose petals. Delicate and balanced in the mouth with only a hint of sweetness. Bitter mineral notes at the back of the palate. Very long. (Buy again? Sure, if the price weren’t so prohibitive.)

Crémant de Loire, Brut, Cuvée Flamme, Gratien & Meyer ($19.70, 11177856)

60% Chardonnay, 25% Cabernet Franc, 15% Chenin Blanc. Spicy apple aromas, fruit salad flavours. Clean and dry with somewhat aggressive bubbles and a savoury/toasty finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)

http://www.gratienmeyer.com

Crémant de Bourgogne, Brut, Prestige, Moingeon ($20.60, 00871277)

100% Chardonnay. Reticent nose: hints of white fruit and brioche. Fine bead. Foams softly in the mouth. Clean, nuanced and quite dry. Long, yellow apple finish. Elegant. Champagne-like. (Buy again? Yes.)

Cava, Brut Selectio, Parés Baltà ($29.90, 10896390)

Xarel-lo, Chardonnay, Macabeo and Parellada . Candied lemon and fruit salad armoas. Clean flavours of minerals, straw and almonds. Forceful bubbles. Very dry. Fair length. (Buy again? Maybe.)

http://www.paresbalta.com/

Crémant de Limoux 2008,  Tête de Cuvée, Clos des Demoiselles, J. Laurens ($20.90, 10498973)

Chardonnay, Chenin et Pinot Noir. Candied nuts and fruit cake on the nose. Suave with soft bubbles, tropical fuit turning appley on the finish. Clean, bright, savoury and long. (Buy again? Definitely.)

http://www.jlaurens.com/

Franciacorta, Brut Rosé Millesimato, Fratus, Riccafana ($25.35, 11140711)

Organically farmed Pinot Noir (80%) and Chardonnay (20%). Smells fruity (red apple peel, strawberry) yet somehow dry. Fine bead. Considerable presence in the mouth. Dry with hints of peach. Good length. (Buy again? Yes, if looking for a pink sparkler in this price range.)

http://www.fratusfranciacorta.com/

Burgenland 2005, Oeil de Perdrix, Schloss Halbturn ($37.95, 6 bottles/case Sublime Vins & Spiriteux). 100% Pinot Noir. Pale off-pink. Savoury nose with hints of sweat, peach and quince. Smooth with soft bubbles. Some residual sugar. Long. Enjoyable. The group liked this enough to buy a case. A second bottle opened during the holidays didn’t show quite as well: Candied red berries on the nose. Noticeable sweetness on the attack, though turning dry on the mid-palate. Half-sparkling. Elegant in glass but shorter than remembered; “ça tombe vite,” one diner noted. (Buy again? Yes.)

http://www.schlosshalbturn.at/weingut/

Champagne 2007, Saignée de Sorbée, Vouette & Sorbée ($81.25, Rézin)

100% Pinot Noir, organically farmed. Vibrant dark pink. Exposive nose of candied apple, spice, sweat, volatile herbs – a mix that one taster likened to cheap cologne. Very dry yet wild fruity, even a bit foxy. Bitter-edged finish. Despite the good acidity and elegant effervescence, the wine seemed heavy and unrefreshing. (Buy again? Nope.)

http://www.vouette-et-sorbee.com/

Champagne 2007, Cuvée Fidèle, Vouette & Sorbée ($59.75, Rézin)

Blanc de noirs: 100% organically farmed Pinot Noir. Toast, oxidized apple and a sourish note on the nose. Understated and elegant, with fine bubbles and a clean, briny finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)

Champagne 2007, Blanc d’Argile, Vouette & Sorbée ($73.00, Rézin)

Blanc de blancs: 100% organically farmed, young vine Chardonnay. Extended maturation in oak casks. Undosed. Banana bread on the nose. Assertive but not aggressive bubbles. Winey and apply on the attack. Very pure on the mid-palate. Longish, minerally finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)

Champagne 2000, Avise, Grand Cru, Jacquesson ($108.75, 00871384)

100% Chardonnay. Extended maturation in oak casks. Intriguing if slightly odd nose: yeast, white fruit, coral. “Truffle in a swimming pool,” said one taster. “You haven’t cleaned your goldfish bowl in a while,” quipped another. Any doubts were dispelled with the first sip: here we had a nuanced and layered wine. Elegant, rich and long, with caressing bubbles and an oxidized, chestnut honey note on the finish. (Buy again? Maybe in Ontario, where it goes for $95.)

http://www.champagnejacquesson.com/

Champagne, Blanc de blancs, Brut, Initial, Jacques Selosse ($150.00, oenopole)

A blend of three vintages. Aged in bottle two years before degorgement. Astoundingly complex and savoury nose with notes of white meat (veal, poultry), brioche, butter. White fruit and an intriguing sourness on entry. Fine bubbles, layers of flavour. Exquisitely balanced fruit and acid. Endless finish. In a class by itself. (Buy again? Just as soon as I win the lottery.)

Written by carswell

January 21, 2011 at 13:13