Posts Tagged ‘Organic’
The mayor of Dogliani
Trim, dapper and personable, Piedmont winemaker Nicola Chionetti was in town a few weeks ago. His youthful appearance notwithstanding, Nicola served a five-year term as mayor of Dogliani, a Langhe village whose surrounding vineyards are generally considered a top source for Dolcetto wine. In fact, Dogliani was the first of the only two Dolcetto appellations to have been granted the exalted DOCG status and the appellation’s identification with the grape is so complete that its denominated wines may be identified simply as Dogliani instead of Dolcetto di Dogliani.
One of the two or three leading Dogliani estates, Chionetti was founded in 1912 by Nicola’s great grandfather, Giuseppe. The name of Quinto, Nicola’s grandfather, continues to feature on the estate’s labels: Azienda Agricola Chionetti Quinto e Figlio. While farming techniques have always been sustainable, the estate is officially converting to organic practice. Its 16 hectares of vineyards produce around 85,000 bottles of wine in a normal year. Only three wines are widely marketed: the Dogliani DOCGs San Luigi and Briccolero and a Langhe Nebbiolo.
The winemaking for the two Dolcettos is nearly identical: manual harvesting, destemming, soft pressing, fermentation and maceration on the skins and with indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks (29-30°C), maturation for around 11 months in stainless steel tanks, cold-stabilization and no filtering. The differences are the vineyards’ soils (clayey in San Luigi, more calcareous in Briccolero), the vines’ average ages (25 years old versus 45), yields (6,000 kg/ha versus 5,000), the typical length of maceration (10 days versus 14) and the usual alcohol level (13% versus 14). In a good vintage, the San Luigi can age up to 15 years, the Briccolero 20-25.
Among the activities slated during Nicola’s visit was a commented tasting and feast of a lunch at Hostaria for a large table of sommeliers, restaurateurs and wine writers, among whose company I was flattered to be included. Many thanks to oenopole for the opportunity to spend time with an artisan whose wines I have always enjoyed.
All told, we tasted six wines, two of which are currently available at the SAQ. You’ll find my notes after the jump.
Here now and how!
This may be yet another of the select group of SAQ wines sold only at the Atwater outlet and not listed on SAQ.com*. I picked up my bottle on Friday. Calling a few minutes ago to reserve a couple more, I was told they have 150 in stock.
Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine 2014, Amphibolite, Domaines Landron ($21.50, 12741084)
100% Melon de Bourgogne from organically and biodynamically farmed vines between 23 and 40 years old. The soil in the 7.5 ha vineyard is mainly decomposing amphibolite, whence the cuvée’s name. Yields were abnormally low in 2014: 37 hl/ha vs. the usual 45 hl/ha. The grapes were manually harvested and whole-cluster pressed. The must was chilled and allowed to clarify by settling. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts and no chaptalization took place in temperature-controlled, glass-lined cement tanks, with sulphur dioxide being added at the end to prevent malolactic fermentation. The wine was matured on the lees for four months, then cold-stabilized and gravity-bottled. Unfiltered and unfined. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
The nose of wet stones, gooseberry and ash only hints at the transfixingly vibrant mouthful to come: intertwining green fruit, crunchy minerals, lip-smacking acidity and salinity that’s off the charts. Ends long and clean with lingering bitter almond and bitter lemon notes. The kind of wine where one sip demands another and the bottle is empty before you know it. Not a keeper – even the winemaker says so – but killer here and now with Trésors du large on the half shell adorned with only a squirt of lemon and a grind of black pepper. (Buy again? Done!)
*Mystery solved: the wine was part of the October 8th natural wines release and should have been embargoed until then. In other words, Atwater jumped the gun. At 9 a.m. on Friday, October 9, bottles can be found in 74 stores across Quebec.
White and red Mogadors
Priorat 2011, Nelin, Clos Mogador ($65.00, 12159140)
The number and proportion of grape varieties in this blend vary from vintage to vintage, though Grenache Blanc always dominates. The 2011 is 52% Grenache Blanc, the balance being mostly Macabeo with a little Viognier and Escanyavelles (or Escanyo Velles, about which I have found no information, not even in Wine Grapes or the new, fourth edition of the Oxford Companion to Wine). The farming is organic. Fermented with native yeasts in oak barrels and wooden vats. Matured 16 months in 1,200-litre oak vats and 600-litre lined concrete vats. Bottled in December 2012. About 8,000 bottles made. Reducing sugar (per winemaker): 1.2 g/l. 14% ABV. Quebec agent: Divin Paradis.
A nose as surprising as it is complex and savoury: game (!), “toasted sesame” (quoting another taster), seaweed, vineleaf, “white miso,” white flowers, golden raisin, resin. Rich and elegant on the palate, weighty but not heavy. The pure fruit – ripe but not sweet – is lightly infused with minerals and herbs, buoyed by welcome acidity. Finishes long and faintly honeyed. Impeccable. (Buy again? Irrespective of price, sure. In real life, it’s a little rich for my budget, especially when equally interesting, similarly styled blends can be had for significantly less from the likes of Domaine Matassa.)
Priorat 2010, Manyetes, Clos Mogador ($89.00, 12159131)
Organically farmed Carignan (90%) and Grenache (10%). Matured 16 months in assorted oak barrels (half new, half second-fill). About 7,000 bottles made. Reducing sugar (per the winemaker): 0.2 g/l. 14.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Divin Paradis.
The nose is dominated by volatile acidity, which, despite two hours’ decanting, does not blow off. Through the VA veil one catches glimpses of red and black fruit, slate and dark spice. In the mouth, it’s full-bodied and intense, finely if tightly structured with lithe tannins and sleek acidity. The dark mineral core and buttressing oak are mostly cloaked by dark fruit, albeit less so on the finish. Breadth and length it has in spades but depth is only hinted at. Monolithic, brooding, even a little sullen for now though the potential is not in doubt. Virtually demands a few years in the cellar or, failing that, carafing hours in advance. (Buy again? If price is no object and if the superlative and even pricier flagship isn’t available, sure.)
MWG July 16th tasting: flight 6 of 6.
Though the conceit of serving flights comprised of a white and a red from the same producer was interesting to put to the test and undoubtedly provided a novel set of clues for those tasting double blind, several tasters said they found it difficult to return to the white after tasting the red.
White and red Blots
Two estates but the same owner-winemaker: Jacky Blot.
Montlouis-sur-Loire 2012, Clos de Mosny, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups ($32.50, 12303674)
100% Chenin Blanc from the oldest vines (averaging will over 50 years) in the centre of the 12-hectare stone-walled clos. Farming is organic but uncertified as such. The grapes are manually harvested during the second of several passes though the vineyard. Depending on the condition of the fruit, whole and/or partial clusters are harvested. Fermented with indigenous yeasts and no chaptalization. Matured on the lees in oak barrels (one-quarter new, one-quarter second fill, one-quarter third fill and one-quarter fourth fill) for 12 months. Racked once or twice to clarify the wine. Before bottling, the barrels are tasted, selected and blended. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. Reducing sugar: 4.3 g/l. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Vini-Vins.
Complex, changing nose: honeycomb, citrus, soap, seaside minerals and a hint of honeysuckle, then gaining parsnip, raw honey and quince nuances. Full and rich in the mouth, albeit a little austere at this stage in its development. Flavours tend to apple, peach, powdered ginger and something more root vegetable-like (“Japanese turnip” per one taster) with a definite mineral underlay. Comes across as quite dry, its reducing sugar levels notwithstanding, perhaps due to its glowing acidity. Long, layered and delicious, full of potential, a lovely wine with at least another decade of life ahead of it. (Buy again? Yes.)
Bourgueil 2013, Mi-Pente, Domaine La Butte ($36.00, 10903684)
Blot’s top red cuvée. 100% Cabernet Franc. The grapes come from vines averaging 60 years old and grown in a five-hectare plot located in the middle of Blot’s sloping 12-hectare Bourgueil vineyard. Yields are an exceptionally low 25 hl/ha. Farming is organic but uncertified. Manual harvesting. After destemming, the grapes are transferred to oak vats for alcoholic fermentation with indigenous yeasts (no chaptalization), daily punch-downs for 10 days and regular pump-overs. Maceration lasts an unusually long five weeks. After malolactic fermentation in oak vats, the wine is matured in oak barrels (one-third new, one-third second fill, one-third third fill) for 16 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. Reducing sugar: 1.4 g/l. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Réserve & Sélection.
Expressive nose of slate, turned earth and ripe red fruit (initially in the background though coming to the fore as the wine breathes) along with faint kirsch and green pepper and a streak of oak that one taster termed “mid-range chocolate ice cream.” Equally expressive in the mouth, despite its youth. Quite extracted – on the top side of medium-bodied – but not heavy. The velvety fruit is tense with fine if tight tannins and firm acidity. Layers of flavour, including well-integrating oak, unfurl as the wine moves across the palate. Finishes, minerally, clean and long. Carafe several hours in advance if drinking now or cellar until it peaks, probably in 2020 to 2025. If this wine were a Bordeaux or Burgundy, it would be retailing for two or three times as much. (Buy again? Yes.)
MWG July 16th tasting: flight 4 of 6.
White and red clay
Domaine des Ardoisières is one of the up-and-comingest estates in the Savoie if not all of France. Its steep, terraced, mountain-side vineyards, formerly forest land above the village of Villard, were created in the late 1990s.
IGP Vin des Allobroges 2012, Argile blanc, Domaine des Ardoisières ($38.20, private import, 6 bottles/case, NLA)
Organically and biodynamically farmed Jacquère (40%), Chardonnay (40%) and Mondeuse Blanche (20%). The varieties are vinified separately. After manual harvesting and sorting, the whole clusters are lightly pressed. The musts are chilled, clarified by settling and transferred to third- to fifth-fill barrels for alcoholic fermentation using indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation is not systematic. The wine is matured nine months (two-thirds in tanks, one-third in thrid- to fifth-fill barrels), then racked, blended, lightly filtered and bottled. Annual production: 10,000-15,000 bottles. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV/Insolite.
Fresh and bracing nose of white minerals (think limestone, talc), spice, pear and apple. Direct and to the point on the palate. Ethereal despite its weight of extract. A mouth-filling matrix of quartz and flint lightly infused with lemony fruit and taut with acidity. The long, clean, faintly saline finish draws you back for another sip. A delight. (Buy again? Yes.)
IGP Vin des Allobroges 2012, Argile rouge, Domaine des Ardoisières ($47.35, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Organically and biodynamically farmed Gamay (80%) and Persan (20%). The varieties are vinified separately. After manual harvesting and sorting, the whole clusters are placed in open vats for alcoholic fermentation using indigenous yeasts. After two to three weeks’ maceration, the grapes are pressed and the must is transferred to vats for malolactic fermentation. The wine is then matured nine months in three- to five-year-old barrels, racked, blended, lightly filtered and bottled. Annual production: around 5,000 bottles. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV/Insolite.
An explosion of red berries and dark minerals with hints of peppery spice and flowers (violet?). Light- to medium-bodied. Lithe, fresh and pure, pure, pure. Lifted by lip-smacking acidity and structured by light, velvety tannins, the tart and juicy fruit lasts well into the long finish, where it’s joined by undertones of dark earth, ferrous minerals and game. A truly memorable alpine red with a definite wild side. Pricey but I kept tasting it on my mind’s palate for days after the tasting – hard to put a price on that. (Buy again? Yes.)
MWG July 16th tasting: flight 2 of 6.
Pithon alert!
Pardon the interruption but there’s not a lot of this left in the system and it’s something fans of the style shouldn’t miss.
IGP Côtes Catalanes 2014, Mon P’tit Pithon, Domaine Olivier Pithon ($20.10, 12574811)
Grenache (50%), Syrah (25%) and Mourvèdre (25%) from organically and biodynamically farmed young vines. The whole clusters are fermented with indigenous yeasts. Matured in oak foudres and stainless steel tanks. Lightly filtered and sulphured at bottling. Reducing sugar: 2.4 g/l. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Ward & associés.
Lilting nose of red berries with hints of graphite, fresh herbs, Asian spice, animale. In the mouth, it’s a fluid and supple welterweight: dry, savoury and clean. The fruit is carried on a stream of acidity and ruffled by lacy tannins. Finishes on a lightly astringent peppery note. Ultra-drinkable, as befits a self-styled vin de soif. Too structured and sun-drenched to be dubbed a Roussillon Beaujo and yet, and yet… Drink lightly chilled. Killer with grilled sausages. (Buy again? Done!)
Math problem
The problem: A wine – a delicious and rare wine at that – lists on SAQ.com for $51.25. In the store, however, it has been marked down significantly. What’s more, when purchased during yesterday’s 10%-off sale (which discount applied to the marked-down price), the figure on the sales receipt was $35.87. What, then, is the marked-down price before application of the 10% discount, which, alas, is no longer in effect?
The wine in question is Abbatucci’s 2011 BR, which awed the group at a tasting in February 2014. My note at the time:
Vin de table (2011), BR, Domaine Comte Abbatucci ($51.00, 11930123)
100% biodynamically and organically farmed Barbarossa, a red-skinned grape variety here given the blanc de noirs treatment. The first vines were planted in the 1960s. The grapes are manually harvested and pressed immediately after picking. Fermented (with indigenous yeasts) and matured in stainless steel tanks. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 2,000 bottles made. 13% ABV. [Quebec agent: Vini-Vins.]
Initially reticent but eventually deep. Minerally and floral with hint of lemoncello and a faint herby overtone, like maquis or hops. Round yet very fresh in the mouth, the fruit structured by a crystalline minerality and enlightened by acidity. A faint, pleasing bitterness threads through the long finish. Breathtakingly pure and pristine, not to mention unique. (Buy again? Gladly.)
After opening it yesterday evening to accompany shrimp marinated in white wine, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, olive oil and puréed basil, wrapped in a basil leaf and a thin slice of prosciutto and grilled (recipe here) – an excellent pairing, by the way – I sat down to pen a new note but quickly realized I had little to add to the one above. The wine is drinking beautifully. It’s as fresh and engaging as it was 18 months ago, perhaps a tad rounder and more integrated, with the final bitterness a shade more pronounced. While yesterday’s double discount made it a rare bargain, it’s still a deal at today’s marked-down price, which by my calculation is $39.85.
Edit (2015-09-06 18:49): The MWG’s network of spies reports that the actual marked-down price at the Montreal Signature store is $41.00. The discount was therefore calculated not on the marked-down price but on the list price, which is not how it usually works: 10% of $51.25 = $5.13. $41.00 – $5.13 = $35.87.
A fascinating Soave
Soave Classico 2012, La Froscà, Gini ($26.80, 12132107)
Organically farmed Garganega from 57-year-old vines. The manually harvested grapes are soft-pressed and the must is cold-macerated on the skins. Temperature-controlled alcoholic fermentation is in a mix of stainless steel and neutral French oak casks. Does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Matured on the lees for at least eight months, partly in stainless steel tanks, partly in 228-litre “seasoned” oak barrels. Sulphur is added only at bottling. Reducing sugar: 3.4 g/l. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Bambara Selection.
Beautiful, fragrant nose: pear and a little peach, loads of chalky minerals, hints of spring honey, white flowers and almonds. In the mouth, the wine is as much about minerals as fruit – in fact, there’s a real tension between them. Intertwining threads of honey and bitterness add intrigue, while a fine acidity animates a density that might otherwise border on lethargic. The long kaleidoscopic finish is marked by saline notes and a faint Szechuan pepper-like numbingness. Fascinating. The most savoury Soave I’ve ever tasted. Unless you’re a wine geek, probably best thought of as a food wine (recipe after the jump), which role it will play stupendously. (Buy again? Absolutely.)
Coteaux du langoureux
Despite what SAQ.com and the Quebec agent indicate, the Coteaux du Languedoc AOC no longer exists, having been replaced in 2007 by the Languedoc AOC (to smooth the transition, wines were allowed to be labelled Coteaux du Languedoc until May 3, 2012).
Languedoc 2013, Château de Cazeneuve ($23.55, 11853439)
Roussanne (40%), Viognier (35%), Grenache Blanc (15%), Muscat (5%) and Rolle (aka Vermentino, 5%) from organically farmed vines averaging 15 years old. Each variety is vinified separately. The fruit is manually harvested, then sorted, destemmed and pressed. Low-temperature fermentation with indigenous yeasts takes place in gravity-fed cement tanks. After blending, the wine is matured on the lees for 10 months, half in oak barrels (15% new) and half in stainless steel tanks. 14.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Vins Balthazard.
Soft, sunny, languorously fragrant nose: yellow fruit, honey, honeysuckle, white spice, background minerals. Round and smooth in the mouth, lush but not heavy, due to the restrained fruit (definite pear) and sustained acidity. More minerally than expected, especially on the long bitter-edged, alcoholic – but not hot – finish. Seems sec-tendre (off-off-dry) on entry but is actually very dry. The next day, the tail end of the bottle showed some nectarine and had gained a waxy texture. Made an excellent pairing for cedar-planked salmon topped with a glaze of whole-grain mustard, chopped fresh rosemary, lemon zest, olive oil, honey and red chile. (Buy again? Yes.)
Orange juice
Last up were COS’s two orange wines.
IGP Terre Siciliane 2012, Ramì, Azienda Agricola COS ($30.00, 12461525)
Inzolia (50%) and Grecanico (aka Garganega, 50%) from biodynamically and organically vines averaging ten years old. The grapes are manually harvested, destemmed, soft-crushed and macerated on the skins and pips for ten days. Temperature-controlled fermentation (with indigenous yeasts) and maturation take place in concrete tanks. The wine is filtered before bottling with a 2-micron filter. No sulphur is used during the wine-making but a small squirt of sulphur dioxide is added at bottling. Reducing sugar: 1.5 g/l. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Delicious nose of straw and beeswax with hints of dried apricot, sun-baked stone and spice. Smooth and full in the mouth. The muted fruit is perfumed by dried orange, blanched almond and faint powdered ginger overtones. Bright acidity and supple tannins add tension and firmness. Long, balanced and remarkably fresh. While this may not be a radical example of the category – Orange Wine 101? – on its own terms it is wholly satisfying. It may also be the most versatile cheese wine in existence. (Buy again? Definitely.)
IGP Terre Siciliane 2012, Pithos, Bianco, Azienda Agricola COS ($42.00, 12316352)
Grecianico from biodynamically and organically farmed vines averaging a bit less than 15 years old. Manually harvested. The whole-clusters are fermented (with indigenous yeasts) and matured seven months in 400-litre terracotta amphorae, which are buried up to their necks to impede oxidation. Further maturation takes place in the bottle. Unfiltered. Minimally sulphured. Reducing sugar: 1.5 g/l. 10.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
By both the winemaker’s and agent’s admission, high in volatile acidity, not that you can see it. Complex nose of straw, banana peel, white spice, almond, dried yellow fruit, crushed rocks. So suave in the mouth. Smooth textured, fluid and fresh. The fruit is understated – though you definitely taste the skins along with grapes – and lightly tinted by salted caramel. Faint tannins add structure and an intriguing astringency, particularly on the finish. Not a shouter but no less wonderful for it. (Buy again? Yes.)
Carafe these several hours in advance and don’t make the mistake of drinking them too cold; remember, they’re as akin to red wines as to whites. I usually find 14-16°C (around 60°F) about right.
MWG April 14th tasting: flight 6 of 6.
Brett happens 