Posts Tagged ‘QPR winner’
Gang of Rhônes
Daumen is a fairly new line of négociant wines from southern Rhône producer Domaine de la Vieille Julienne. The handsome labels (Côtes-du-Rhône, Lirac, Gigondas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Principauté d’Orange) were designed by a Quebec firm.
Côtes-du-Rhône 2010, Daumen ($19.00, 11509857)
Organically farmed Grenache (60%), Syrah (30%) and Mourvèdre (6%). Unlike the label’s Lirac and Gigondas but like the VDP de la principauté d’Orange (an old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon–Merlot blend available as a private import from oenopole), the grapes come from Daumen’s own vineyards. They are also co-planted, so this is a field blend. The grapes were hand-picked, sorted, partially destemmed, fermented in temperature-controlled vats with indigenous yeasts, matured approximately 12 months in concrete vats and neutral 50-hl barrels and bottled unfiltered and unfined. Sulphur is added – and then minimally – only just before bottling. 14% ABV.
Crushed blackberry (fruit and leaves), cherry pit, old wood. Medium-bodied and dry. The fruit is held back, leaving room for dark minerals and black pepper. Freshening acidity and fine if teeth-coating tannins only add to the savour. A kirsch note chimes in on the finish. Food-friendly: a natural for a thyme and garlic-stuffed lamb shoulder of course, but also capable of accompanying a wide range of savoury dishes, including all kinds of grilled meats and vegetables. Hard to beat at the price point, provided you’re not looking for a fruit bomb. (Buy again? Yep.)
By the way, when searching for info on the wine, I noticed another cuvée from Daumen, one I’d not heard about, including from Jean-Paul himself at the MWG tasting he led: Côtes-du-Rhône 2005, La Bosse, Domaine de la Vieille Juilienne ($196.00, 11905930). What’s this? A Côtes-du-Rhône that clocks in at 16.5% and costs more than a magnum of the same estate’s 2004 Châteauneuf-du-Pape?! A query to the agent elicited the following reply: “La Bosse: A micro-parcel (lieu-dit) within the “Clavin” zone, hence CDR, which is a hill that is geologically quite different from the rest of the parcel due to the high amount of sand in the topsoil (not unlike the particularities of the parcel that yields Vieille Julienne’s Réservé in Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Over decades, the estate has noticed a marked difference in the quality of the grenache, and in exceptional vintages, like the 2005 (which is also the 100th anniversary of the domaine) makes small amounts to pay tribute to this unique parcel. CDR in name, but can put a lot of Châteauneufs to shame… 480 bottles produced.” At four bucks shy of $200 a bottle, I doubt I’ll ever taste it but I don’t doubt it’s spectacular. Heads-up, millionaires!
Alzipratu’s 2011 Fiumeseccu rouge
Corse Calvi 2011, Cuvée Fiumeseccu, Domaine d’Alzipratu ($19.45, 11095658)
Organically farmed Nielluccio (60%) and Sciacarello (40%) from ten- to 30-year old vines. Destemmed, macerated eight to 12 days and fermented with indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled tanks, matured one year in concrete tanks. Lightly filtered before bottling. 13.5% ABV.
Dusty cherry and plum, dried herbs, sun-baked fields. In weight and texture, closer to a Chianti than, say, a Côtes-du-Rhône. Savoury elements – minerals, herbs, spice, fine if astringent tannins, piquant acidity, alcohol – are wrapped around a sweet core of fruit, which sours ever so slightly as it flows into the drying finish. So fresh and drinkable though, at this early stage, best given 30 minutes to an hour in a carafe. With its French and Italian roots, this is uncommonly versatile with food, especially of the Mediterranean variety. (Buy again? A no brainer.)
oenopole’s Greek spring workshop (2/6)
The second dish was albacore sashimi.
Vin de pays de Markopoulo 2012, Savatiano, Domaine Papagiannakos ($15.90, 11097451)
100% Savatiano. Manually harvested. Fermented with selected yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Matured on the lees for three months. Filtered before bottling. 12.5% ABV.
Candied sour lemon, overtones of tropical fruit (mango, banana, papaya), dried hay in the background. Fruity, almost sweet, on entry, though make no mistake: this is a dry wine. The clean flavours evoke lemon and quartz. The extract balances the solid acidity. A faint bitterness lingers after the fruit fades. Not profound but delivering real bang for the buck. (Buy again? Yes.)
> The wine was synergistic with the cilantro and cucumber garnish. It amped up the fishiness of the albacore (not unpleasantly so) while the fish brought out its fruit. oenopole also suggests squid stuffed with spinach and feta and/or shrimp sautéed with garlic and parsley and served with lemon wedges. It’s all good.
MWG April 18th tasting (9/9): Black Sea White Muscat
White Muscat 2008, Massandra ($18.40, 11800548)
Located near Yalta in the Ukraine’s Crimean peninsula, the Massandra winery was founded in 1894 to supply the summer palace of Nicholas II, Russia’s last tsar. This fortified wine is made from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and matured in oak barrels for two years. 16% ABV.
Gold tending to amber. Wafting nose of candied white fruit, golden raisins and orange peel. Sweet but not saccharine, rich but not heavy, in no small part due to the vibrant acidity. The faintly oxidized, nose-echoing flavours also include peach, dried fig and spice, a pith-like bitter note and an earthy mineral streak. Lingers long. A pleasure to drink – not quite a vin de contemplation, but definitely getting there. Outstanding QPR, though I can’t say that without also noting that the 2009 vintage is available at the LCBO for $15.95. (Buy again? Absolutely.)
We interrupt our regularly scheduled programming…
…to bring you the following public service announcement.
This arrived at the SAQ during the week of April 15th. There’s still quite a bit around but, barring a restocking, several outlets have already sold out.
Langhe 2011, Nebbiolo, Produttori del Barbaresco ($22.55, 11383617)
100% Nebbiolo from young vines, all of which are located within the Barbaresco DOC. Fermented with selected “Barolo” yeasts at 28ºC in stainless steel tanks. Macerated on the skins for 24 days. Matured six months in very large oak barrels. No fining, light filtering, minimal sulphur dioxide. 14.5% ABV according to the label; 13.5% ABV according to the SAQ (I suspect the label is closer to the truth).
The expected ripe fruit is there but less upfront than usual, on equal footing with a set of savoury aromas that include spice box, autumn leaves, brick dust, dried herbs, slate and earth. In December, the cooperative’s managing director Aldo Vacca described the 2011 vintage as “extremely ripe,” and that’s immediately apparent in the wine’s texture: while as medium-bodied and silky as ever, it also has a liqueur-like feel that finds an echo in the intense core of sour cherry fruit. Yet the wine is very dry, with racy acidity and fine if astringent tannins. A mineral vein runs throughout and is joined by an old wood note on the long finish. More potent and less charming than the 2010 but every bit as balanced and satisfying. Tasted the next day, the tail end of the bottle was more integrated and quite Barbaresco-like in its power if not depth. Will probably be even better in six months or a year and probably has the potential to keep for a few years beyond that. Serve at cool room temperature and carafe if drinking now. (Buy again? Of course.)
Turkish QPR winner
Cappadocia 2011, Öküzgözü/Boğazkere, Kocabağ ($13.25, 10703754)
The winery is located in Uchisar district in Nevşehir province in central Anatolia (profile here). This bottling is a blend of Öküzgözü (70%) and Boğazkere (30%), with part of latter being aged in oak barrels. 13% ABV.
Initially shy nose: red berries, cherry jam, stones, old wood, faint spice. Soft and velvety on the palate. Medium-bodied. The clean fruit is juicy up front but dries and sours as it progresses through the mouth. Tannins are apparent less as structure, more as a mild astringency on the long, wood- and earth-scented finish. Needs half an hour in a carafe to unfurl. Simple but good, an honest wine that doesn’t taste manipulated or give itself airs. Paired with köfte kebabs as to the manner born. (Buy again? Yep.)
Brett happens 