Brett happens

Corse Calvi 2011, Cuvée Fiumeseccu, Domaine d’Alzipratu ($19.45, 11095658)
Organically farmed Nielluccio (60%) and Sciacarello (40%) from ten- to 30-year old vines. Destemmed, macerated eight to 12 days and fermented with indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled tanks, matured one year in concrete tanks. Lightly filtered before bottling. 13.5% ABV.
Dusty cherry and plum, dried herbs, sun-baked fields. In weight and texture, closer to a Chianti than, say, a Côtes-du-Rhône. Savoury elements – minerals, herbs, spice, fine if astringent tannins, piquant acidity, alcohol – are wrapped around a sweet core of fruit, which sours ever so slightly as it flows into the drying finish. So fresh and drinkable though, at this early stage, best given 30 minutes to an hour in a carafe. With its French and Italian roots, this is uncommonly versatile with food, especially of the Mediterranean variety. (Buy again? A no brainer.)