Brett happens

Alsace 2009, Grand cru Muenchberg, Riesling, Domaine Ostertag ($49.00, 00739821)
100% biodynamically farmed Riesling from 30- to 60-year-old vines. Manually harvested. The whole clusters were pneumatically pressed. Alcoholic fermentation, with indigenous yeasts, lasted several months. Underwent full malolactic fermentation. Matured in stainless steel tanks for about six months. 14% ABV. This is the last vintage with the interlinked-ring label; the 2010 is marketed under three different but thematically related labels.
A complex nose of white fruit, lemon and lime zest, chalk, flint and a hint of spruce resin or petrol is followed by a mouth full of citrus, pear and crystalline minerals buoyed by racy acid. The finish goes on and on. So pure, precise, balanced and dimensional. As always in a restrained style (quite the feat at 14%) but achingly beautiful. Approachable now, probably better in five, maybe even ten years. Would make a fabulous match for now-in-season Gaspé lobster or, if you can still find some, fresh snow crab. Not many bottles left in the system, so act fast. (Buy again? Oh yes.)