Posts Tagged ‘Trentino’
Sibling Teroldegos
IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2011, Teroldego Rotaliano, Foradori ($30.75, 712695)
100% Teroldego from organically farmed vines averaging 40 years old and grown in various sites (10 ha in all) around the town of Mezzolombardo. Manually harvested. Fermented separately by lot in temperature-controlled cement tanks. Matured 12 months in used Austrian and Slovenian oak barrels and cement tanks. 13% ABV. Around 90,000 bottles made. Quebec agent: Balthazard.
Layers of sour cherry, slate, herbs and eventually smoky ash. An elegant, medium-bodied mouthful of pristine fruit, fine, velvety tannins and lively acidity. The long, clean finish is coloured by an appetizing bitter almond note and textured by a light astringency. The balance and energy are spellbinding. In its way, perfect. (Buy again? Absolutely.)
IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2010, Granato, Foradori ($67.75, 12162120)
100% Teroldego from three organically and biodynamically farmed vineyards (4 ha in all) near the town of Mezzolombardo. Manually harvested in late September and early October. Fermented in large wooden vats. Transferred to French oak barrels for malolactic fermentation. Matured 15 months in used Austrian and Slovenian oak barrels. 13% ABV. Around 20,000 bottles made. Quebec agent: Balthazard.
Darker, richer, more primary nose with soy sauce-like umami notes. In the mouth, richer, weightier and more monolithic. Vanilla and spice overtone the dark fruit, indicating the oak needs more time to integrate. Plush tannins and extract-wrapped acidity make for a velours like texture. Impressively broad, deep and long but brooding, too, only hinting at its sure to be glorious future. Enjoyable now but won’t start strutting its stuff for another five to ten years. (Buy again? If feeling flush, yes. That said, I’m not sure I wouldn’t rather have two bottles of the regular Teroldego.)
MWG March 12th tasting: flight 6 of 7.
MWG March 16th tasting: report (1/4)
Sketchy notes on the first of four flights. All wines except the Falanghina are from the March 15th Cellier release.
Falanghina 2009, Taburno, Fattoria La Rivolta ($19.95, 11451851)
100% organically farmed Falanghina. Fermented at low temperatures, aged in stainless steel. Mercurial nose: chalk, lemon, minerals, flowers, then white coral, then nougat and shower curtain, then lard and banana. Light and rainwatery on entry but building as it goes along. Bright acid. Dry but full of sweet fruit. A little citrus pith on the chalky finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Soave Classico 2010, Prà ($19.50, 11587134)
100% Garganega. Fermented at low temperatures, aged in stainless steel. Yellow fruit with chalk, grapefruit and lime notes. Very present: weightier and fruitier than the flight’s other wines. Fruit tends toward citrus. High acidity rounded by the fruit and a little residual sugar. Bitter finish with a hint of nuttiness. A Soave very much in the mould of Pieropan’s or Imana’s basic bottlings. (Buy again? Sure.)
Roero Arneis 2010, Mauro Sebaste ($18.55, 11579986)
100% Arneis. Fermented in stainless steel, aged three to four months in the bottle. Flowery bath powder, then sweet lime, then white peach and crushed leaves; that said, it’s not what you’d call exuberantly aromatic. Dry, smooth and suave on the palate. Initial white fruit turns more acidic and bitter toward finish. Improved as it breathed, gaining crystalline mineral notes. Would make a good aperitif or accompaniment to delicate pasta and fish dishes. (Buy again? Yes.)
Manzoni Bianco 2010, Fontanasanta, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Foradori ($28.90, 11580004)
100% Manzoni Bianco, a cross of Riesling and Pinot Bianco. Aged 12 months in acacia casks. Sweaty funk on the nose and palate. Medium-bodied. Fruity but dry, with strongish acid and a bitter-edged finish. Fair length. Given the winemaker and the wine’s enthusiastic reception by critics, I was expecting more. Perhaps our bottle was slightly off? (Buy again? Only to give it a second chance.)
Brett happens 