Brett happens

After oenopole’s Aurélia and Alexis encountered this wine in Paris, they set out in search of the producer. It’s easy to see why: a grower champagne and a textbook blanc de blancs, made from organically farmed grapes and sold for a song – what’s not to like?

It is, in fact, the next-to-cheapest champagne – and the least expensive blanc de blancs – at the SAQ. Based in Vertus, in the south of the region, Doquet grows all the grapes that go into his wines. His 15-hectare estate has been certified organic since 2008.

Champagne, Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Pascal Doquet ($44.75, 11528046)
Pale straw with greenish glints. Appealing nose of apple and citrus with hints of chalk and brioche. Crisp and elegant in the mouth, remarkable more for its texture than its depth: on the lighter side of medium-bodied, very dry with a caressing effervescence. Clean minerally finish. A deluxe aperitif but substantial enough to serve with, say, freshwater fish or even sushi. I’m stocking up for the holidays.