Brett happens

If there’s a wine that doesn’t get the respect it deserves, it’s Muscadet – not surprising given the boatloads of thin, flavourless crap floating around. But in the hands of a master like Guy Bossard, the Muscadet grape’s principal vice, its neutrality, becomes a virtue, the perfect vehicle for expressing terroir. Enlightened farming, low yields, native yeasts, no pumping (gravity feed), non-interventionist winemaking, a low sulphur régime and, of course, a terroir worth expressing make all the difference.

Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine 2009, Expression de Granit, Domaine de l’Écu ($20.70,  10282873)
100% Muscadet (aka Melon de Bourgogne). The domaine has been organic since 1975, began converting to biodynamic practices in 1992 and is now Demeter-certified.

Lemon, green apple peel, chalk and, yes, some granite (or is it gun flint?). Rich texture and a hint of sugar on the attack. Wax and white-fruit flavours. Citrusy acid kicks in on the mid-palate and persists through the long, vaporous finish. Lingering notes of minerals, lemon oil and pine needles. A beauty that will only improve with time in the cellar (up to ten years). 12% abv.