Brett happens

Finalmente!

In this flight, only the Zýmè was from the March 15th Cellier release.

Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2008, Acinatico, Stefano Accordini ($26.15, 11027954)
Corvina (60%), Rondinella (20%), Covinone (15%) and Molinara (5%). Refermented using the skins of Amarone grapes. Matured 12 months in new French oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered. Pleasing nose of root beer, beet, burnt sugar, plum and vanilla custard. Smooth, creamy, bordering on unctuous texture. Rich fruit, soft tannins, refreshing acidity. Perceptible residual sugar but not sweet. Spicy finish. Lovely. (Buy again? Yep.)

Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008, Dell’Anniversario, Serego Alighieri ($26.45, 10543404)
The anniversary in question is the 650th of the purchase of the first wine-growing estates by Dante’s son, Pietro Alighieri. Corvina (70%), Rondinella (20%) and Molinara (10%). Refermented with semi-dried grapes from the same varieties. Matured 18 months in Slavonian oak casks and four months in large cherry barrels. Initially odd nose (“a bit skanky” in the words of one taster) of dried pine needles, segueing to herbaceous cherry and spice. Drier than the other two wines. More savoury, too, with flavours reminiscent of stewed cherries and plums, cocoa, sweet spice and herbs. Full-bodied but medium weight and fluid. Lingering earth, tea and dried wood notes. (Buy again? Maybe.)

Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007, Zýmè ($32.75, 11587151)
Corvina (40%), Covinone (30%), Rondinella (25%) and Oseleta (5%). Given the ripasso treatment using the skins of Amarone grapes. Matured three years in large Slavonian oak casks. Deep yet fresh nose: plum, spice, gingerbread, eventually basil. Round and richly textured, with ample fruit, plush tannins and soft but sufficient acidity. Long sandalwood and red fruit finish. Highish residual sugar may edge it out of savoury food territory, though it paired beautifully with crémeux du Jura cheese. (Buy again? In lieu of a port to go with cheese, sure.)