Brett happens

Short notes (from memory) on small pours of three new arrivals.

Not every 2009 white Burgundy is heavy on tropical fruit and light on acidity. Case in point:  the Bourgogne Vézelay 2009, La Piécette, Domaine de la Cadette ($22.70. 11589691). Almost shockingly brisk, tingling with minerals and finishing on a tart note. Grabs you by the palate and doesn’t let go. Was served over-chilled; it might well come across as richer, less citric and bracing if warmer. Whatever. I like.

The Rubicone IGT 2010, Alta Marea, San Valentino ($17.55, 11579994), a blend of Chardonnay (80%) and Trebbiano (20%) that’s aged in stainless steel tanks, was rounder and denser on entry, the fruit sweeter but also a little blander (I guessed it was 100% Trebbiano), the background flavours tending to straw rather than minerals, the acidity present but not electrifying. About halfway through, it did a quick dissolve into rainwater. Probably not done any favours by being tasted after the Piécette but enjoyable enough.

The nose of the Vosne-Romanée 2008, Les Champs Perdrix, Bruno Clair ($86.25, 00880534) couldn’t be more Burgundian: red berries with hints of forest floor, beet, cola and burning leaves. On the palate, the wine’s poise, purity, structure, oak treatment and length leave no doubt as to its thoroughbred status. And yet the fruit is nearly devoid of sweetness and not revealing much depth, the tannins are almost too firm, the finish is way smoky. Obviously in need of time to resolve and integrate but not quite making a believer out of me, especially at that price.