Brett happens

The report on the 28 remaining bottles from the MWG’s recent Jurathon is coming. In the meantime, here’s a note on a wine I bought for one of the tastings but didn’t manage to squeeze in.

Arbois-Pupillin 2010, Pinot Noir, Benoit Badoz ($20.60, 11195721)
Vinified in stainless steel, aged in old foudres. Cherry nose with more than a hint of cough drop; some slate and candied violet in the background, too. Light-bodied. Sweet and tart fruit. Tannins, such as they are, appear only on the credible finish. Simple but clean, refreshing and enjoyable. A wine you could open when you’re in the mood for a Beaujolais cru but your companion is a Gamay hater.

This went well with the moistest rabbit in mustard sauce I know:

Lapin à la cauchoise

1. In a Dutch oven or sauté pan, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Brown a rabbit cut into 6 to 8 pieces. (Hot temperatures make for dry, stringy rabbit. Adjust the heat accordingly.) After browning, remove the meat and discard all the cooking fat.
2. Return the pan to the burner, turn the heat to low and add 3 tablespoons crème fraîche, scraping the bottom of the pan to free the tasty brown bits. Return the meat to the pan, turning the pieces 2 or 3 times to coat them with cream. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover the pan and simmer very gently for 10 minutes.
3. When the 10 minutes are up, add 1 tablespoon crème fraîche to the pan and turn the meat. Cover and continue cooking for another 10 minutes. Add 1 more tablespoon of crème, turn the meat and simmer for 10 minutes more. Add 1 last tablespoon of crème and simmer for 5 minutes.
4. Whisk together 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 3/4 cup dry white wine and 2 large, finely chopped shallots. Pour the mixture into the pan. Turn the meat again, then cover and simmer gently for 15 or 20 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately with sautéed or French fried potatoes.

H/t to wapiti for “Jurathon.”