Brett happens

Chianti Classico 2009, Querciabella ($28.80, 10277986)

Biodyanmically farmed Sangiovese (95%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) from several vineyards. The grapes are destemmed but not crushed, then fermented and macerated in stainless steel vats. Spends 12 months in French oak casks (10% new for the Sangiovese, 80% new for the Cabernet). No animal products are used in the process, making this a vegan-friendly wine.

Smells like Tuscany. Red and black cherry, terra cotta, turned earth, cedar, hints of leather and tobacco. Closed down as it breathed.

Tastes like it smells.  Medium-bodied with a fluid texture. The lean, ripe fruit is wrapped in fine but puckery tannins. Acidity brightens everything. Slate and cigar box outlinger the fruit on the long finish.

Savoury and suave if tight and a little one-dimensional at present; a few years (as many as ten) in a cool, dark place will bring suppleness and complexity. Which isn’t to say that those who aren’t allergic to austere, youthfully astringent wines won’t derive pleasure now.

Always one of my favourite Chianti Classicos, this is true to form in 2009. Just about perfect with lamb chops marinated in lemon juice and olive oil then grilled over charcoal and served with sautéed spinach and rosemary roasted potatoes. Must buy more.