Brett happens

…for the colour, which probably qualifies as rubis or corail.

Verduno Pelaverga 2010, Comm. G.B. Burlotto ($19.35, 11599063)
100% Pelaverga Piccolo. Macerated and fermented in temperature-controlled French oak vats, with pumping over and daily racking and returning. Undergoes malolactic fermentation in stainless steel vats. Matured three months in large Slavonian and French oak casks and two months in stainless steel casks.

Light dusky ruby with brilliant scarlet glints. Lightly fragrant: black pepper, cumin, strawberry/raspberry, fresh sawdust, dried blood. Light-bodied and lightly flavoured, with raspy tannins and coursing acidity. Though there’s some sweet fruit at its core, the wine starts dry and gets drier, almost alarmingly so by the end. The long finish is woody (as distinct from oaky), hotish (14% ABV), sourish and, above all (not to mention, below, behind, in front of and on either side of all), black peppery. After that fades, a faint raspberry aftertaste.

Sweetened a little as it breathed, so probably best carafed an hour or two before serving. Also better lightly chilled to tame the heat. To my surprise, it didn’t pair well with a salume-stuffed calzone.

While the SAQ is to be applauded for expanding their and our horizons and while this is a wine that deserves respect (Burlotto’s been making it since 1800), Fratelli Alessandria’s version is the one to love.