Brett happens

I originally intended to pair this wine with a roasted prime rib of beef but, after scoring a taste in an SAQ outlet, opted instead for pan-roasted lamb shoulder, a near perfect match. The recipe came from Marcella Hazan and, to mark her passing earlier today, I’ve included it after the jump.

Nemea 2005, Réserve, Parparoussis ($34.50, 11900493)
100% Agiorgitiko. Manually harvested. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks typically lasts 20 days with up to two weeks’ maceration. Matured in 70% new French oak barrels for 12 months. 13% ABV.
Fascinating, multifaceted bouquet of pomegranate, dried cherry, turned earth, herbs (tarragon?), blood and nut skins. The fruit – sour cherry, above all – is ripe and present but, contrary to expectations, far from dominant. In fact the wine is medium-bodied, supple and quite dry, not to mention savoury, bright with acidity, structured by fine resolved tannins and nuanced by overtones of underbrush and a coppery tang. A caramel thread runs throughout and is joined by faint cocoa husks on the long finish. Surprising in its exoticism but also in its restraint and elegance. Parparoussis studied wine-making in Dijon and, while you wouldn’t mistake this wine for a Burgundy, you can definitely see the influence. (Buy again? Yes.)

It is increasingly clear that the Greek wine scene is one of the most dynamic and exciting on the planet.

♦

Agnello tegame all pugliese
Pan-roasted lamb Apulian-Style

(Adapted from Marcella Hazan’s Marcella Cucina, my favourite of her books)

In a large Dutch oven or sauté pan, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over a medium-high flame. When the oil is hot, add 1.5 kg (3 lbs) bone-in lamb shoulder cut into large pieces and brown well on all sides. (If you can’t fit all the meat in the pan, brown it in batches.) Remove the meat to a platter, turn the heat to medium-low and add 3 medium onions, peeled, halved and cut into 1.5 cm (1/2 inch) thick slices. Sprinkle with salt and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften and turn golden brown.

Return the meat to the pan, season with salt and add 1 red chile, seeded and chopped or 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper (adjust to taste) and 1 teaspoon dried oregano. Turn the heat to medium and pour in 125 ml (1/2 cup) dry white wine. Bring to a boil, turn the heat to low, cover the pan and cook at a slow simmer for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, peel 4 or 5 medium potatoes and cut them into 3 cm (1 1/4 inch) pieces. Add them to the lamb, set the lid on the pan slightly ajar and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes, adding a little water if necessary to keep things from sticking. (The dish can be set aside at this point and reheated later.) Adjust the seasoning and serve immediately.

Four servings