Brett happens

IGP Basilicata Rosso 2010, Antelio, Azienda Agricola Camerlengo ($25.90, 11951961)
100% Aglianico from organically farmed 30-year-old vines. Manually harvested. Fermented with native yeasts and macerated for 25 days. Matured in 50-hl Slavonian oak botte. Unfiltered and unfined. Lightly sulphured at bottling to increase stability during transportation. 13% ABV.
The faintest whiff of nail polish remover quickly blows off leaving a fragrant, savoury nose of pomegranate, black cherry, obsidian dust, sweet spice, cedar and tomato paste. In the mouth, it’s a middleweight. The silky fruit veils fine, drying tannins, generating a kind of tension between the fruit’s tart sweetness and the tannins’ astringency that lasts well into the dusky flint, plum and balsam-scented finish. A pleasure to drink now but even better in six to nine months. A perfect match for an Apulian-style lamb stew, of course, but food-friendly enough to work with grilled, roasted or pan-roasted white meat and fowl (go light on the tomato though). (Buy again? Unhesitatingly.)