Brett happens

Rioja 2003, Viña Gravonia, R. López de Heredia ($25.95, 11667927)
100% Viura from old vines. Manually harvested, gently destemmed and immediately crushed. The must is transferred into 60-hectolitre oak vats, where it ferments spontaneously. Matured in 225-litre American oak barrels for four years, with racking twice a year. Unfiltered but fined with egg whites before bottling. 13% ABV.
Complex, faintly oxidized bouquet evocative of beeswax, dandelion flowers, stone, old wood, caramel, yellow fruit, quince and almonds. Round, even weighty on the palate yet also fresh, thanks in no small part to the soft but omnipresent acidity. Smooth minerals and honey flavour the fruit. A Fino-like note surfaces momentarily, then is sweetened and subsumed in dried apricot and orange peel on the long finish. A seamless wine, a bottle as memorable as it is affordable. (Buy again? Definitely and soon because there’s very little left at the SAQ.)

Made an intriguing and gratifying match for oysters on the half shell, especially small sweet Caraquets with a few drops of lemon juice. Would also love to try it with some good jamón.