Brett happens

Morey Saint-Denis grand cru 2008, Clos Saint-Denis, Domaine Olivier Guyot ($193.00, oenopole, 3 bottles/case)
100% Pinot Noir. 12.5% ABV.
Classy, layered and just beginning to open up – that’s true for the nose as well as the palate. Only a series of reconciled contradictions can hint at the wine’s allure: mouth-filling yet middleweight; intense yet fleet; structured yet supple; complex yet pure; refined yet down-to-earth (no need to give itself airs). With fruit, acidity and tannins in perfect balance, its elegance seems natural, unforced, while its depths seem unplumbable. The ever-evolving aromas and flavours – sweet berries, forest floor, sandalwood, earthy minerals, burning leaves, notes of beet, sarsaparilla, game and spice – hold you in thrall from first sniff through the very long finish. So proportionate and nuanced, so precise and complete. A thoroughbred. (Buy again? If price were no object, yes.)