Brett happens

Santorini 2012, Cuvée No. 15, Hatzidakis Winery ($31.50, 11901189)
100% Assyrtiko from ungrafted vines grown in three organically farmed parcels. Macerated on the skins for 12 hours, the must is then separated, clarified and fermented with indigenous yeasts at 18°C. Matured on the lees in stainless steel tanks for eight months. A small amount of sulphur is added at bottling. 2,700 bottles produced. 14.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Pale gold-bronze in the glass, surely an artifact of the skin-maceration. Complex nose: briny minerals against a backdrop of ash, lemon zest and peach leather. Rich and intense in the mouth. Full-bodied though so alive with acidity you hardly notice. Ripe-sweet on the attack, the densely extracted but otherwise restrained fruit quickly turns dry and ebbs into a sea of crunchy minerals. The saline finish is endless. A wine with every dimension, with the kind of presence, structure, delineation and authority found in white Burgundies costing two and even three times as much. Like most whites of its stature, best served cool (13-14°C), not chilled. Food pairings? Working from the winemaker’s suggestions, seared tuna or pan-roasted, stewed or grilled oysters seem like naturals. Or – surprise! – marinate some single-rib lamb chops in olive oil and lemon juice at room temperature for 30 minutes, then grill over hot charcoal, season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper and serve.