Brett happens

Bugey Cerdon 2013, Méthode ancestrale, Domaine Renardat-Fache ($28.74, private import, 12 bottles/case)
Organically and biodynamically farmed Gamay and Poulsard from vines planted between 1960 and 2010. Manually harvested. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wine is bottled before fermentation is complete and continues fermenting in the bottle, creating the gas that makes it sparkle. After two months, the wine is filtered and recorked. 7.5% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV/Insolte.
An especially beguiling vintage of this perennial favourite. Deep pink or pale red (take your pick), with abundant if short-lived foam. Redolent of cherry, strawberry and cranberry. Floral overtones, slate undertones and a hint of yeast add complexity, while a soft effervescence tickles and lifts. Would be tart were the acidity not balanced by a touch of sweetness. Chalky minerals flavour the finish. So light, refreshing and fun. The summer sipper par excellence, this also accompanies not-too-sweet red berry desserts, grilled hamburgers (the adult version of strawberry soda!) and – you heard it first here, folks – mild to medium-hot Punjabi-style Indian food.

EDIT: An earlier version of this note mistakenly named the producer as Patrick Bottex, whom La QV also represents. The price, links and technical information have been updated accordingly.