Brett happens

Anjou Blanc 2012, Domaine Thibaud Boudignon ($40.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Hailing from Bordeaux, young (30-something?) Thibaud Boudignon is head of operations at Château Soucherie. On the side, he makes wine under his own name from two hectares of vineyards in Anjou and Savennières. This 100% organically farmed Chenin Blanc comes from vines averaging a third of a century old and grown in shallow soils on grey schist, ryholite and sand. The grapes are manually harvested and gently pressed. The must is fermented with indigenous yeasts in French and Austrian oak barrels of various volumes. Does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Matured eight to 12 months in one and two-year-old Burgundian 225-litre barrels and new 500-litre barrels. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Dry. Intense, breath-holdingly balanced. The ripe-sweet fruit – pear and lemon – is somehow both dense and ethereal. Floral, honey and quinine overtones abound but the oak calls no attention to itself. The acidity is racy, the minerality dazzling. The saline finish goes on and on. There are wines whose focus and energy are such they seem powered from within. This is one of them. The last word I wrote (and a word I rarely use): incredible. (Buy again? Absolutely.)