Brett happens

Jurançon sec 2011, La Virada, Camin Larredya ($43.00, private import, 6 bottles/case)
A blend of equal parts of organically farmed Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng and Courbu Blanc grown in the La Virada vineyard. The grapes are manually harvested and whole cluster pressed. The must is transferred to barrels and fermented with indigenous yeasts. Matured on the fine lees in foudres for 12 months. 14% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Subdued, languorous nose of acacia blossom, candied white and yellow fruit, citrus oil and minerals. Weighty and dense, voluminous and structured. Despite the oily texture, rich extract and faint touch of rounding residual sugar, tense with acidity. Subtle white and yellow fruit and blossoms intertwine with threads of chalky minerals. Finishes long, soft and clean. An excellent wine with years of life ahead of it. (Buy again? Yes.)

A few bottles of the estate’s 2011 La Part Davant remain at the SAQ ($26.45, 12233434). To go by the La Virada, it’s worth checking out.