Brett happens

In late October, MWG member Simon Thibeaudeau donned his mantle as head of communications and marketing at Bambara Selection to lead a tasting of a representative sampling of the agency’s wares. For detailed information on the agency estates, winemakers and wines, visit Bambara Selection’s newly overhauled, all-singing all-dancing website. We began with a pair of Chardonnays from opposite ends of Burgundy.

Chablis 1er Cru 2012, Séchets, Domaine Louis Michel et Fils ($43.95, private import, 6 bottles/case)
100% Chardonnay from a 1.5-hecatre vineyard of sustainably farmed vines averaging 45 years old and rooted in a Kimmeridgian matrix of hard limestone and clay. Yields were 40 hl/ha. Manually harvested. Fermented with indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled vats. Underwent spontaneous malolactic fermentation. Matured on the lees for about 16 months. Saw only stainless steel until bottling. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Bambara Selection.
Nuanced nose of lemon, spice and gunflint (among other things). In the mouth, it’s substantial though far from heavy, full of stony minerals and structured by crisp acidity. The long finish is marked by bitter almond and lactic notes. Only beginning to unfurl and show its depth and mettle, this will benefit from a few more years in the cellar. Classic, even old-fashioned Chablis and all the more appealing because of it. Would love to taste though the entire range at some point. (Buy again? Yes.)

Pouilly-Fuissé 2013, Domaine Saumaize-Michelin ($42.95, private import, 12 bottles/case)
100% Chardonnay from biodynamically farmed vines rooted in clay and limestone. The grapes were manually harvested and slow-pressed. After clarification by settling, the must was racked into barrels for alcoholic and malolactic fermentation and aging, about 10 months in all. Only a small fraction of the barrels were new. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Bambara Selection.
Outgoing nose of apricot, honey and hot stones. Medium-bodied yet rich, dry yet sweet-fruited. The soft acidity and a limestony substrate last well into the long, creamy finish. The oak is beautifully handled, adding complexity and texture but not calling attention to itself. A solar wine with great poise and presence. (Buy again? Gladly.)

MWG October 23rd tasting: flight 1 of 6