South and north
Sicilia 2011, Carjcanti, Gulfi ($36.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Carricante (95%) and Albanello (5%) from unirrigated, organically farmed 15-year-old vines rooted in limestone and clay. Manually harvested. Fermented in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. Matured around 12 months in 2500-litre stainless steel tanks and 500-litre French oak barrels. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Bambara Selection.
Striking, complex nose: tamari (!), almond paste, dried apricot, split wood and white spice against a backdrop of minerals. Medium-bodied, fruity but dry, especially on the finish. Lots of minerals and soft but sustained acidity. Long with hints of quince and oxidizing yellow apple. Unique and delicious though probably not a long ager. Understandably a favourite of many around the table. (Buy again? Definitely.)
Alsace 2012, Riesling, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Jean Louis & Fabienne Mann ($35.95, private import, 12 bottles/case)
100% Riesling from organically farmed old vines grown in several vineyards. Manually harvested. The must from the gently pressed grapes is allowed to clarify by settling, then fermented in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. Maturation on the lees lasts around 10 months. At bottling, the wine is lightly filtered and a small amount of sulphur dioxide is added. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Bambara Selection.
Lemon, white flowers, white minerals and eventually buttery marzipan. Very dry. Rich and hefty. Smooth on the surface but dig a little and you find tense acidity and real mineral depth. Ends long and clean on an intriguing faintly bitter note. Beautiful, classic Alsatian Riesling at a fair price. (Buy again? Yes.)
MWG October 23rd tasting: flight 2 of 6
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Written by carswell
November 18, 2015 at 12:51
Posted in Tasting notes
Tagged with Alsace, Bambara Selection, Mid-priced, Mo' Wine Group, Organic, Private imports, Sicily, Under 13 percent, White wine
4 Responses
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I’m having a bottle of the Carjcanti and it’s weird: the oxydative/nut has taken over a lot of the taste. Not sure if it’s not too old. Intriguing though, a mix of candied orange peel and walnut.
Monsieur Antoine
April 3, 2017 at 20:36
Thanks for the report, M. Antoine. I have a bottle of this sitting in my fridge. Sounds like I should open it soon. What did you pair it with and did the pairing work?
carswell
April 3, 2017 at 20:58
Ottolenghi’s Tagliatelle with walnuts and lemon (Recipe here: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/dec/13/pasta-recipes-yotam-ottolenghi). It was actually a very good match! But on his own or with other dishes it was less, should I say vibrant.
Monsieur Antoine
April 3, 2017 at 21:15
What a fortuitous match! Can see how that would work, especially the walnut and oxidation.
carswell
April 3, 2017 at 21:20