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Two warm-climate whites

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The teaser sent to MWG members prior to the tasting described this flight as “Two warm-climate still whites. No other connections.”

Côtes du Roussillon 2014, Les Glaciaires, Domaine Gardiés ($24.70, 12013378)
Grenache Blanc and Gris (40%), Roussanne (40%), Macabeu (20%) from organically farmed vines. Manually harvested. “Traditional vinification” (whatever that means). Matured eight months in demi-muids. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: La Céleste Levure.
Dusty, sun-baked minerals, hints of lemon, white pepper, garrigue, menthol, peach, anise and, according to more than one taster, “coconut.” Weighty on the palate but also fleet and fresh. There are minerals galore as well as light peach, pear, pineapple and honey and brisk acidity of a type you can’t assume you’ll encounter in a Roussillon white. Long, rainwatery finish. Impeccable. (Buy again? Yep.)

Sicilia 2014, Bianco Maggiore, Cantine Rallo ($22.40, 12476989)
The estate is located in the commune of Marsala, in westernmost Sicily. 100% Grillo from organically farmed vines planted in 2001. Manually harvested. Gently pressed. Alcoholic fermentation in temperature-controlled (16-18°C) stainless steel tanks lasts eight days. Does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Matured in stainless steel takes for six months and in bottle for one month. Reducing sugar: 2.2 g/l. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Les vins Dupré.
Complex, effusive nose that elicited descriptors like “rocky,” “oily” and “saline.” Aromas of spicy white fruit dusted with lemon zest are echoed in the mouth. Texturally, it’s rich but not heavy. There’s a touch of residual sugar – or maybe it’s just the ripeness of the fruit – but basically we’re talking a round, dry, joyful wine. Good acidity and length. Complete. If you like Grillo, you’ll love this. White of the evening for several around the table. Excellent QPR. (Buy again? Def.)

MWG January 14th tasting: flight 3 of 7

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Written by carswell

January 22, 2016 at 15:39

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