Brett happens

All wine, most of the time

Not my type. And yet…

with 2 comments

Empordà 2013, Crianza, Puntiapart, La Vinyeta ($25.50, 12933238)
Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) and Carignan (15%) from organically farmed vines more than 30- and 100 years old respectively. Manually harvested. Matured 12 months in new French, Hungarian and Romanian oak barrels. Reducing sugar: 3.0 g/l. Total sulphur dioxide: 60 mg/l. 14.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Passion Gourmet.
My bottle reeked of volatile acidity; carafing the wine for a couple of hours mostly took care of it. Get beyond the nail polish remover and you catch whiffs of plum, cherry, red meat, slate and dark chocolate. In the mouth, it’s full-bodied if not quite a heavyweight. The fruit is chocolate-coated – cloyingly so were it not for the sustained acidity and pronounced earthy/minerally/savoury current. The tannins are still quite firm and chewy. A peppery note puts me in mind of Grenache. The alcohol lends more power than heat, though a touch of eau-de-vie overtones the finish. Fine with a grilled rib eye. Not really my type of wine, and yet it grows on me. Will probably improve – uncoil a little and digest some of its oak – in a few years (Buy again? Maybe.)

The oak straddles the line between noticeable and overbearing. And more’s the pity because you can tell that, underneath it all, there’s some fine juice. The wine does benefit from several hours’ aeration. And if you’re not oak-adverse, you may find this enjoyable. Am sure it would be a hit at most BBQs. Really might be worth buying a bottle to open in three or four years to see what’s become of it.

Spin the upright bottle as if it were on a turntable and watch the label’s wrap-around illustration, which changes with each vintage, become an animation, like a two-dimensional flip book.

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Written by carswell

September 26, 2016 at 14:50

2 Responses

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  1. Yuck. You’re a better man than I am, Gunga Din. Sounds borderline revolting, if not actually nauseating after you spin the bottle. Thank you for “taking one for the team” as we say down here.

    Tom

    September 26, 2016 at 15:44

    • The tail end of the bottle had hardly budged yesterday evening, though it was somewhat redeemed by bites of 12-month Manchego, which seemed to vaporize the oak and let the fruit shine through. I think the only hope is that a few years’ cellaring will deal with the wood or that someone will bring my new wine accessory idea to market: the oak sponge.

      carswell

      September 27, 2016 at 12:46


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