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All pastels

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Gaillac 2015, Les Greilles, Causse Marines ($23.85, 860387)
A blend of Len de l’El (60%), Mauzac (20%), Ondenc (15%) and Muscadelle (5%) from organically and biodynamically farmed vines averaging 45 years old. Manually harvested. Gently pressed. Fermented with indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled tanks. Occasionally filtered and/or fined on an as-needed basis. Minimum added sulphur. Reducing sugar: 4.8 g/l. 14% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Wafting nose: apple-pear sauce, chamomile, limestone, a whiff of alcohol. Round, not bone dry yet not at all heavy – due in no small part to the surprising current of acidity – with a texture between waxy and satiny. The soft, ripe-sweet fruit slow-fades leaving a mid-palate more felt than tasted and a finish with intertwining threads of bitterness, chalk and herbs and spice that, however faintly, bring a high-class white vermouth to mind. The alcohol is detectable but ghostly. A wine with no sharp edges: all pastels and just lovely. (Buy again? Yes.)

Written by carswell

September 27, 2016 at 12:31

2 Responses

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  1. Would oysters be a possible pairing?


    September 27, 2016 at 12:58

    • You know, it probably wouldn’t have occurred to me as a pairing but, based on how well Heredia’s Vina Gravonia worked with raw oysters, it might be worth a try. I drank this with my new summer standby*, for which it was an enjoyable match, though not as good as a steely Austrian Riesling or, the best yet, an Assyrtiko from Santorini. FWIW, in earlier thinking about possible accompaniments, I came to the conclusion that fish like doré or black cod would be sure bets.

      *A spatchcocked chicken briefly marinated in lemon juice, olive oil, chopped fresh oregano, red pepper flakes, cracked black pepper and salt, then grilled skin side up over indirect heat (with the cover closed) for 30-40 minutes and skin side down over direct heat (with the cover closed) for 15-20 minutes.


      September 27, 2016 at 14:48

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