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Bargain Jurançon

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Jurançon Sec 2014, Domaine Laguilhon ($16.95, 13028651)
The estate is reportedly owned by viticulturalist Henri Estreboou Suberbie but, though the wine isn’t listed on its website, the producer is the Cave de Gan, a cooperative which M. Estreboou Suberie appears to chair. In any case, this is a 50-50 blend of Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng from sustainably farmed vines in Monein. Manually harvested. Fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Matured on its lees for six months. Stoppered with a cork (not syncork as has it). Reducing sugar: 3.2 g/l. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Les vins Dupré.
Subtle nose of yellow apple and pear, frangipane, faint chalk and honey. Medium-bodied and round, with a satiny verging on waxy texture. Well chilled, grapefruit seems the dominant fruit; warmer, pear with almond overtones comes to the fore. Dry, especially on the finish, though there’s also a thread of sweetness that’s countered by the streaming acidity, crystalline minerals and lingering touch of pith-like bitterness. Fairly long. Not exactly deep but surprisingly nuanced, complex and pure for a $17 wine. Excellent as an aperitif. Not bad with roasted cod loin under a fines herbes, lemon zest and panko crust. I can also see it working with pan-seared scallops in a delicate sauce. (Buy again? Yes.)

Written by carswell

September 30, 2016 at 14:05

4 Responses

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  1. It’s a dream of mine to visit a co-op in a unique old world wine region, post a slideslide of it on my two-bit social media platform and then return home to find the SAQ will add it to their repertoire for easier access. Pinch me


    September 30, 2016 at 14:32

    • The things I miss by not joining the book of faces…

      Since I can’t view your slideshow, I’ll have to assume you were impressed. How cool that you visited it. The Pyrenees — on all sides of the border (even Andorra is reportedly making interesting wines) — is surely one of the most underappreciated viticultural regions of western Europe.


      September 30, 2016 at 16:13

  2. This slideshow is so not worth leaving multiple links. In any event, this link is sized better and shouldn’t freak out if you have no Facebook account to log in to. carswell, you are wise to avoid the FB.


    September 30, 2016 at 17:17

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