Posts Tagged ‘Loire’
MWG April 18th tasting (5/9): Cheverny rouge
Cheverny 2011, Le Pressoir, Michel Gendrier ($19.85, 11154021)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Pinot Noir (80%) and Gamay (20%). The grapes are transferred to the vats without pumping. Alcoholic fermentation – with native yeasts – takes place at temperatures up to 30ºC and lasts about a week. The wine is then gently pressed, racked, allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation, oxygenated and racked again in December with bottling taking place in April or May. The only non-grape product added is small amounts of sulphur dioxide. 12.5% ABV.
Perfumy nose. Flavours tending to red cherry, earth, minerals and a touch of stemmy greenness. Barely medium-bodied. The fruit is clean and tart, the tannins slender, the finish tangy. Pleasant enough but a little short on depth and breadth, especially compared with the memorable 2006. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Cheverny 2010, Domaine Maison Père & Fils ($17.50, 11463801)
Pinot Noir (60%), Gamay (30%) and Malbec/Côt (10%). The grapes are sorted and destemmed. Fermented with native yeasts at 25-28ºC. Matured in tanks for 10 months. 12% ABV.
Odd but not unappealing nose of black currant, guava, baking spice and a little blood. Smooth and light, with silky tannins. The fruit tastes riper and sweeter than the Pressoir’s. Simple and well made but not a wine for thinking about. (Buy again? Maybe.)
We interrupt our regularly scheduled programming…
…to bring you the following public service announcement.
The Cour-Cheverny appellation, a small enclave in the heart of the Cheverny zone, was created in 1993 to protect the once common but then-endangered Romorantin grape variety, a relative of Chardonnay thought to have arrived in the Loire valley in the 16th century. All Cour-Cheverny wine is white and contains only Romorantin. While most is made dry, a few semi-sweet, late-harvest and even botrytized versions can be found. The SAQ used to carry Domaine des Huards‘s reliable entry-level Cour-Cheverny but dropped it from the catalogue several years ago. Since then, as far as I know, the monopoly has been a CC-free zone, forcing Romorantin lovers to turn to agencies like Glou and Vini-vins. Until last week, that is, when this showed up on SAQ shelves.
Cour-Cheverny 2011, Vieilles vignes, Benoit Daridan ($23.25, 11953325)
100% Romorantin from 50-year-old vines. Directly pressed. Clarification by settling. Cold-temperautre fermentation in vats with stirring every 15 days. Matured in tanks (80%) and barrels (20%). Filtered before bottling.13.5% ABV.
Not what you’d call a fruity nose. There’s some lemon, a hint of dried hay, a whiff of kerosene, and chalk, lots of chalk. Intense on the attack. Dry, extracted (the texture is slightly viscous, like some Vermintinos) with coursing acidity and a piquant, almost fiery sour streak. Flavours? Lemon, including pith; a dab of butter; minerals galore, especially on the finish. Lingers long – is that a spiced apple aftertaste? – but seems to hollow out a little as it goes along. With a bit more follow-through, this would be a wow; as it stands, it’s a perfectly enjoyable Cour-Cheverny. The winemaker recommends serving it with spicy fare, which I just don’t see, but I can confirm that it makes a dandy aperitif and goes well with crustaceans and cheese, especially goat cheese. Quantities are limited and it’s selling out fast. (Buy again? Yes.)
MWG Feburary 21st tasting (6/8): Four middleweight reds
Vin de Savoie 2011, Mondeuse, La Sauvage, Domaine Pascal & Annick Quenard ($21.80, 10884671)
100% Mondeuse Noire. Manually harvested. Fermented with indigenous yeasts in carbon-fiber vats for one to two weeks. Matured on the lees one year in a mix of French oak barrels and stainless-steel and carbon-fiber vats. Lightly filtered. 12% ABV.
Choco-cherry segueing to pomegranate and sandalwood, then to dried raspberry. Light- to medium-bodied. The clean fruit and dark minerals are framed by light tannins and tart aciditiy. As fresh and pure as a draught of mountain air. (Buy again? Yes.)
Bourgueil 2010, Domaine de la Chevalerie ($28.10, 11895268)
100% organically farmed Cabernet Franc. Manually harvested. Fully destemmed. Gravity fed into vats. Fermented with native yeasts. Minimal sulphur regime. Matured in two- to five-vintage demi-muids and other large containers. Bottled unfiltered. 12.5% ABV.
Lovely, layered nose of slate, undergrowth, cherry orchard, old wood and green pepper. Fluid with an airframe structure, good acidity and silky fruit over a minerally substrate. Long. A beautifully balanced Cab Franc that’s enjoyable now but also capable of aging at least five years. (Buy again? Yes.)
Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato 2011, Cascina ’Tavijn ($24.70, oenopole, NLA)
A small estate located near Asti in Piedmont. 100% organically farmed Ruchè. Hand harvested. Vinified with indigenous yeasts and minimal intervention. Matured in Slavonian oak barrels. 14% ABV.
Fragrant: rose petal, slate and black raspberry. Pure, with an intense core of spicy fruit and minerals, pulsing acidity and soft tannins that give it a velvety texture. Long, herby finish. Going by the 2009, this will be even better in a year or two. (Buy again? Yes.)
Lacrima di Morro d’Alba 2011, Marzaiola, Monte Schiavo ($18.05, 11451894)
100% Lacrima. Manually harvested. Fermented and matured in stainless steel vats. 12.5% ABV.
Plum, rose and maybe some violet, along with darker mineral notes and a whiff of sourdough. Fruity and smooth in the mouth. Round tannins and not a lot of acidity. In fact, it’s borderline flabby and saved mainly by a vein of slate that adds some structure and depth. Drying finish. Not quite up to the 2009. (Buy again? Maybe.)
MWG February 21st tasting (4/8): Two out-there Chenins
Saumur 2011, Château Yvonne ($24.55, 10689665)
100% organically farmed Chenin Blanc. Fermented with native yeasts, matured in oak barrels, unfiltered and unfined. 13.5% ABV.
Complex if somewhat inscrutable nose: quince, spice, minerals, chalk… Rich and slightly oxidized with honey overtones. The winey texture is lightened by underlying acidity, which also balances out the welcome hint of residual sugar. The kaleidoscopic array of flavours includes spiced pear, passion fruit and pineapple. Long, burned mineral finish. Approachable now though no harm will come from a couple more years in the cellar. (Buy again? Of course.)
VDP de l’Aveyron 2011, La Selve, Nicolas Carmarans ($32, Glou, NLA)
The former owner of a Paris wine bar, Nicolas Carmarans followed his roots back to the Aveyron region, on the Lot River in the Massif central, upstream from Cahors, to make wine in 2007. A natural approach is favoured. This 100% Chenin Blanc from 30-year-old vines is fermented (with native yeasts) in vats and matured in casks. Undergoes malolactic fermentation. If sulphur is added, it is in miniscule amounts and only at bottling. 12% ABV.
“Sharp, pear, steel,” said one taster of the intriguing nose, which also has a sour edge. “Whisky barrel,” said another of the palate, though if so it took a back seat to the oxidized – some said “rotting” – apple. There’s lots of rocky minerals and coursing acidity too. Long, dry finish. Serious and, yes, a little weird. I, of course, loved it. Was shocked to see it clocked it at 12%; I’d been expecting 14% or 15%, not because it was hot or alcoholic but because of the impression of power it gave. It all adds up to an authentically rustic Chenin unlike any other I’ve encountered. (Buy again? Oh, yes.)
Got rocks
Saumur-Champigny 2011, Domaine des Roches Neuves (Thierry Germain) ($18.80, 10689622)
100% Cabernet Franc from biodynamically farmed vines averaging 25 years old. Manually harvested and sorted. Fermented in stainless steel tanks at 16 to 22ºC (61 to 72ºF). Around a third of the must is cold-macerated for three days at 10ºC (50ºF). Matured on the lees in stainless steel tanks and wood barrels for three to four months with no added sulphur. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 13% ABV.
Quite the nose: cherry, plum, flint, humus, sarsaparilla, flowers (violet? daffodil?) and stems. Supple, juicy and tart with an almost Burgundian texture. Very dry. The red fruit is shot through with dark minerals and framed by a fine tannic astringency. There’s a faint bitter note on the clean finish. Refreshing and food-friendly, though a shade too light to make an ideal pairing for chicken stewed in vinegar (the search continues). A better bet would be braised beef or pork in a less assertive sauce. Hamburgers and kefta kebabs might work too.
MWG January 10th tasting (2/7): Two cool-climate whites
Sancerre 2011, Sur le Fort, Domaine Fouassier ($26.40, 12 bottles/case, La QV)
100% biodyanmically farmed Sauvignon Blanc from ten- to 20-year-old vines. Manually harvested. Destemmed. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. Work in the cellar is based on the lunar calendar.
Classic Sancerre nose: gooseberry, kiwi, grapefruit, chalk and flint. Ripe and extracted though bone dry and surprisingly unfruity. Superficially soft and round but possessed of a strong acidic undercurrent. Long, extremely saline finish. Less immediately dazzling than some Sancerres, this grew on me. I suspect it’s quite food-friendly; the producer suggests Thai-style shrimp or seared tuna with sweet potatoes (!) as pairings. (Buy again? Sure.)
Chardonnay 2011, Alto Adige, Peter Zemmer ($24.50, 12 bottles/case, La QV)
100% Chardonnay. The estate’s vineyards are located on the valley floor around Cortina, one of the southernmost villages in the Alto Adige. Zemmer’s website refers to “natural” wines but doesn’t go into specifics; La QV labels the estate’s viticultural practices as raisonné (sustainable). The grapes are given a short maceration before being pressed. The resulting must is clarified by settling. Fermented with selected yeasts at 19ºC (66ºF). 13.5% ABV.
Discreet nose: pear, mineral, smoke and white flowers evolving into lemon. Medium weight, fresh and very dry. The fruit is ripe and clean but could use more oomph, more zing. Turns a little sour on the minerally finish. Not a ton of depth or character, leading one taster, a look-on-the-bright-sider, to describe it as “linear.” (Buy again? While it’s a decent wine, probably not, especially when knock-out Chards can be had for $6 less.)
Blot on the Loire
Bourgueil 2009, Mi-Pente, Domaine de La Butte ($35.00, 10903684)
Jacky Blot’s top Bourgueil cuvée. 100% Cabernet Franc from vines averaging 50 years of age. The estate practises lutte raisonnée (often translated as sustainable farming). Yields are kept low: 30 hl/ha in 2009 for the entire estate vs. the authorized 55 hl/ha, though probably more like 15–20 hl/ha for this cuvée. Manually harvested. Destemmed. Fermented in wooden vats with no added yeast or chaptalization. Once-daily punch-downs and regular pump-overs. Matured for 16 months in a mix of old and new barrels. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 13.5% ABV.
Complex, dark, umami, intriguing nose: dried wild cherry, fruitcake, leaf mould, soy sauce, slate, tobacco leaf, a hint of blanched rapini, coconut, leather and sawed wood. Rich and fluid on the palate. The sweet-tart fruit transitions to a spicy mid-palate underpinned by tannins that seem soft until you chew the wine. The finish is long, astringent and bitter-edged, like you’ve chomped down on a cherry pit. A flavour not unlike blackberry tea lingers long. Delicious and fascinating. The ripeness of the fruit and tannins means it’s approachable now, though the structure, balance, complexity and freshness (that acidity!) also indicate age-worthiness (up to a decade or two, according to the winemaker). A disappearing must-buy for lovers of Cabernet Franc.
At table, the wine worked well with – but was arguably too grand for – a chicken stewed in vinegar. A better food pairing would be roasted, stewed or flavourfully sauced red meat (even lamb), game or, especially in a few years, guinea fowl.
MWG November 22nd tasting (2/5): Three dry Vouvrays
Vouvray 2011, Les Argiles, Domaine François Chidaine ($25.55, 11461056)
100% biodynamically farmed Chenin Blanc from 40-year-old vines in several parcels. Manually harvested in several passes. Pneumatically pressed, fermented with native yeasts and matured in old wood demi-muids. No malolactic fermentation. 12.5% ABV.
A kaleidoscope of aromas and flavours: chalk, quince, melon, white and yellow stone fruit, citrus, linden, ginger and more. Thrilling balance between rich fruit and vibrant acidity. Long finish with crystalline minerals and a quinine-like bitter note. Wow! (Buy again? Definitely, for drinking now or cellaring up to a decade.)
Vouvray 2010, Clos Naudin, Philippe Foreau ($30.75, 11797220)
100% Chenin Blanc. Manually harvested in several passes. Pneumatically pressed with the stalks. Fermented with native yeasts. No chaptalization, acidification or malolactic fermentation. Matured in old barrels. Bottled with minimal sulphur. 13.5% ABV.
Reticent nose: “green almonds,” green pear, chalky minerals. Lacking coherence on first sip. Very dry with coursing acidity, pale white fruit and a streak of bitter minerals. Gained depth and appeal as it breathed and warmed, hinting at its potential. (Buy again? Only to stick in the cellar and forget about for a few years.)
Vouvray 2010, Domaine Vincent Carême ($23.45, 11633612)
100% organically farmed Chenin Blanc from vines 45 years old on average. Manually harvested. Fermented – full alcoholic, partial malolactic – and matured in old barrels. 14% ABV.
Ripe pear, flower sap, browning apple but the flavours turn cheesy in the glass and the wine falls flat. Different from – and far less attractive than – other bottles of this I’ve tasted and probably defective. The cork on our bottle was wet all the way to the top; since the wine showed well enough when carafed, I poured it; in retrospect, I should have exchanged it. (Buy again? Yes but maybe from another store.)
MWG November 22nd tasting (1/5): Two French sparklers
A tasting of 15 wines, including five from the November 22nd Cellier release and one importation valise. We began with two French sparklers.
Champagne grand cru, Réserve, H. Billiot ($49.75, 11818220)
75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay from up to 18 grand cru vineyards in Ambonnay. Usually a blend of three vintages. Fermented in stainless steel tanks. Does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Unfiltered. 13% ABV.
Browning apple and bread crust. Softly effervescent. Dry but rich, with a ripe-sweet fruit core (yellow apple and dried apricot) and plenty of acidity. A suggestion of brown sugar joins the minerals on the finish. Not bad though more complexity, tension and, well, dazzle would be welcome. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Vouvray mousseux 2010, Brut, Domaine Vincent Carême ($21.70, 11633591)
100% Chenin Blanc. The estate has been farming organically since 2002 and either has recently received organic certification or is about to. Made using the traditional method, with only yeast added for the second fermentation. Zero dosage. 13% ABV.
Complex and appealing nose: sour apple, lees, yeast, barley sugar, a hint of kerosene. Fine, sharp effervescence. The abundant acidity is checked by the faint residual sugar. Not a lot of flavour depth but a crystal-like structural depth. A minerally, faintly bitter streak that one taster described as burnt match lingers through the finish. Earlier bottles of this have shown better; the current shipment is just off the boat and may need a few weeks to settle down. (Buy again? Sure.)
MWG November 9th tasting: report (3/5)
Crémant de Loire 2004, Extra Brut, Quadrille, Langlois-Chateau ($28.40, 11791670)
A quadrille is an 18th-century dance involving four couples. Here it refers to the four grape varieties used – Chenin Blanc (50%), Chardonnay (30%), Cabernet Franc (15%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) – and the four Saumur vineyards where the grapes are grown. Manually harvested. Pneumatically pressed. Each vineyard’s produce is vinified separately in temperature-controlled vats and subsequently blended. Made using the traditional method. Matured on the lees for four years. The champagne house Bollinger has owned Langlois-Chateau (spelled sans circumflex, TYVM) since 1973. 12.5% ABV.
Initially odd nose – wet dog and honeysuckle – segues into more appealing sour apple and yeast. Clean and bright on the palate. Straightfowardly fruity but very dry. Fine effervesence and crisp acidity lighten the fairly rich texture. Lingering minerals. Well fashioned, even elegant, if a little short on personality. (Buy again? Maybe, though equally interesting and more characterful sparklers can be found for less.)
Champagne grand cru, Blanc de Blancs, Réserve Brut, De Sousa ($69.25, 11797369)
100% Chardonnay from the Avise, Cramant, Le Mesnil sur Oger, Chouilly and Oger grand cru vineyards. A blend of two or three vintages with a minimum of 25% barrel-aged vin de réserve. Made entirely from tête de cuvée juice (the first out of the press). Vinified in temperature-controlled metal vats. Unchaptalized. 12.5% ABV.
Barley sugar, browning apple, hints of buttered toast. Quite rich and full, with faint oxidized fruit and honey notes. The round bubbles provide lift and ripe acidity keeps things taut. Underpinning crystals and chalk add complexity. Long, tasty finish. (Buy again? Maybe, though equally interesting Champagnes can be found for less.)
Brett happens 