Posts Tagged ‘Veneto’
Considering the oyster
The good people at oenopole recently invited a number of local wine and food bloggers and writers to a workshop, possibly the first in an occasional series focused on pairing wines with a single food. In this case the food was raw oysters, Coville Bays to be precise. Impressively fresh and impeccably shucked, the medium-sized, meaty bivalves were some of the briniest I’ve tasted. Aside from four white wines, all that was on the table were mollusks on half shells, lemon wedges and bread – about as straightforward as it gets.
Bourgogne 2010, Sœur Cadette, Domaine de la Cadette ($18.25, 11460660)
In this vintage though maybe not for long, a négociant wine. 100% organically farmed Chardonnay. Slow-pressed, fermented in stainless steel with natural yeast. Matured 12 months in stainless steel tanks. Lightly filtered before bottling. 12.5% ABV.
Light lemon, chalk and quartz with a lactic note. Fresh and bracing on the palate, the fruit (lemon and green pear and apple) discreet. Taut with a tension between acidity and minerals. Long, clean, appetizingly sour finish. You won’t find a better brisk and minerally Chardonnay at the price.
> Lean and bright on its own, the wine was richer, rounder and fruitier with the oyster. A good match.
VDP des Cyclades 2011, Atlantis, Argyros ($16.65, 11097477)
Assyrtiko (90%), Aidani and Athiri (each 5%) from ungrafted vines. Fermented in stainless steel vats with selected yeasts. 13.0% ABV.
Rainwater on stones, crystal lemon, a hint of herbs. Denser than the Sœur Cadette but much less fruity, the sharp-edged minerals and trenchant acidity here softened by the wine’s weightiness. A saline tang flavours the finish. If possible, even better than the excellent 2010. Unbeatable QPR.
> A superb pairing, a whole greater than the sum of its parts. The wine’s minerality and brininess echoed the bivalves’ while its acidity cut their richness. In contrast to the Sœur, the wine’s flavour was little transformed by the naked oyster, though adding a few drops of lemon juice did bring out the otherwise shy fruitiness.
Champagne, Blanc de Blancs, Brut, Pascal Doquet ($43.25, 11528046)
100% organically farmed Chardonnay from the communes of Bassuet and Bassu. Vinified entirely in stainless steel. Matured six months, three of them on the lees. A blend of three vintages. 12.5% ABV.
Faintly floral, candied lemon, chalk, lees. Crisp and delineated yet soft and caressing. The flavours are clean and pure. Dry, the sweetness coming only from the fruit. Leaves on a mineral note. Beautiful and, once again, offering tremendous value.
> If an oyster transformed the Sœur Cadette, here it was the wine that transformed the oyster, amping up its seawater taste (iodine, saltiness, even fishiness). As these were already exceptionally briny oysters, that was perhaps too much of a good thing; I suspect the Champagne would work better with a milder oyster. As before, a squirt of lemon sweetened the wine.
Champagne grand cru 2002, Le Mesnil sur Oger, Brut, Pascal Doquet ($74.00, 11787291)
100% organically farmed Chardonnay from the Le Mesnil sur Oger vineyard. Based on the 2002 harvest (65%) with 35% reserve wines from 2001. About a third of the wine is matured in casks, the rest in tanks. 12.5% ABV.
Classic, refined champagne nose of brioche and yellow apple. Light, even ephemeral on the palate yet rich, complex, layered. Soft, fine effervescence. Some fruity sweetness is apparent on the attack; otherwise very dry. A load of minerals on the long finish. So elegant. A complete and beautiful wine comparable to blanc de blancs costing up to half again as much.
> Interacted with the oysters much like the non-vintage did, though a little less forcefully.
A last-minute addition:
Bourgogne 2011, Les Saulniers, Domaine de la Cadette ($47.00/1500ml, oenopole, six bottles/case)
100% organically farmed Chardonnay from a single parcel located on a path once used by salt smugglers, whence the name. Sorted on the vine, slow-pressed, fermented with native yeasts in wood and stainless steel vats. Lightly filtered before bottling.
Stony, ashy nose with some lemon/lime zest. Fluid. Dry. Pure. Weightier and rounder than its little sister though still acid-bright. Full of green apple, sweet lemon and mineral flavours. Long, clean finish. Tasty.
> Naked oysters made an acceptable pairing, lemoned oysters a better one.
As the crowd chatted and prepared to leave, the cork was popped on a magnum of the always delicious and refreshing Bisol Prosecco ($19.10/750 ml, 10839168; $40.25/1,500 ml, 11549349). Didn’t take notes but the fact that it didn’t taste like a letdown after such an excellent sequence of whites should tell you all you need to know.
MWG March 16th tasting: report (4/4)
Finalmente!
In this flight, only the Zýmè was from the March 15th Cellier release.
Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2008, Acinatico, Stefano Accordini ($26.15, 11027954)
Corvina (60%), Rondinella (20%), Covinone (15%) and Molinara (5%). Refermented using the skins of Amarone grapes. Matured 12 months in new French oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered. Pleasing nose of root beer, beet, burnt sugar, plum and vanilla custard. Smooth, creamy, bordering on unctuous texture. Rich fruit, soft tannins, refreshing acidity. Perceptible residual sugar but not sweet. Spicy finish. Lovely. (Buy again? Yep.)
Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008, Dell’Anniversario, Serego Alighieri ($26.45, 10543404)
The anniversary in question is the 650th of the purchase of the first wine-growing estates by Dante’s son, Pietro Alighieri. Corvina (70%), Rondinella (20%) and Molinara (10%). Refermented with semi-dried grapes from the same varieties. Matured 18 months in Slavonian oak casks and four months in large cherry barrels. Initially odd nose (“a bit skanky” in the words of one taster) of dried pine needles, segueing to herbaceous cherry and spice. Drier than the other two wines. More savoury, too, with flavours reminiscent of stewed cherries and plums, cocoa, sweet spice and herbs. Full-bodied but medium weight and fluid. Lingering earth, tea and dried wood notes. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007, Zýmè ($32.75, 11587151)
Corvina (40%), Covinone (30%), Rondinella (25%) and Oseleta (5%). Given the ripasso treatment using the skins of Amarone grapes. Matured three years in large Slavonian oak casks. Deep yet fresh nose: plum, spice, gingerbread, eventually basil. Round and richly textured, with ample fruit, plush tannins and soft but sufficient acidity. Long sandalwood and red fruit finish. Highish residual sugar may edge it out of savoury food territory, though it paired beautifully with crémeux du Jura cheese. (Buy again? In lieu of a port to go with cheese, sure.)
MWG March 16th tasting: report (3/4)
Wildass Red 2008, Niagara Peninsula, Stratus ($24.00, 11601143)
A hodgepodge of a dozen or so grape varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Tempranillo. Complex if not particularly deep nose: black cherry, shoe leather, turned earth, leaf mould, sawed wood, volatile herbs. Smooth and fluid from start to finish. Structured but not rigid. Spicy fruit, racy acid and a slatey finish. Pure and appealing. One of the most drinkable Ontario reds I’ve tasted; too bad it doesn’t go for $20. (Buy again? Yes.)
Colli Euganei IGT 2006, Gemola, Vignalta ($43.50, 11581074)
Vignalta’s flagship wine. Mainly Merlot with some Cabernet Franc, grown in volcanic soils. Red fruit with notes of tomato paste, cola and tobacco leaf. Medium-bodied, velvet-textured. Rich but vibrant: sweet dark fruit and a touch of vanilla shaped by firm tannins and keen acidity. Long, savoury finish. Lots of class. (Buy again? Quite possibly.)
Toscana IGT 2006, Pergolaia, Caiarossa ($23.55, 11604619)
Biodynamically farmed Sangiovese (90%), Merlot (7%) and Cabernet Franc (3%). Fermented with native yeasts. Sulphur is used minimally and added only after malolactic fermentation. Aged 14 months in neutral barriques and botti. Textbook Sangiovese nose, albeit fresher than a Chianti’s: black cherry, savoury spice and terra cotta with herbaceous and graphite notes. Medium-bodied, with sweet fruit, tight, drying tannins and coursing acidity. Fairly long, tobacco-scented finish. Straightforward, nothing profound but pure and enjoyable. (Buy again? Yes.)
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2001, Vigneto St. Ercolano, Carpineto ($50.00, 11566464)
Sangiovese (85%) with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, all from a vineyard planted in 1995. Fermented in cement vats with indigenous yeasts. Matured 13 months in new French and American oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered in 2003, then cellared for five years before release. Suave nose of plum, cedar, spice and cigar box. The fruit starts smooth and silky but dries on the leathery finish. The lightly astringent tannins are mostly resolved. Not much depth or dazzle for a $50 wine. (Buy again? Unlikely.)
MWG March 16th tasting: report (1/4)
Sketchy notes on the first of four flights. All wines except the Falanghina are from the March 15th Cellier release.
Falanghina 2009, Taburno, Fattoria La Rivolta ($19.95, 11451851)
100% organically farmed Falanghina. Fermented at low temperatures, aged in stainless steel. Mercurial nose: chalk, lemon, minerals, flowers, then white coral, then nougat and shower curtain, then lard and banana. Light and rainwatery on entry but building as it goes along. Bright acid. Dry but full of sweet fruit. A little citrus pith on the chalky finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Soave Classico 2010, Prà ($19.50, 11587134)
100% Garganega. Fermented at low temperatures, aged in stainless steel. Yellow fruit with chalk, grapefruit and lime notes. Very present: weightier and fruitier than the flight’s other wines. Fruit tends toward citrus. High acidity rounded by the fruit and a little residual sugar. Bitter finish with a hint of nuttiness. A Soave very much in the mould of Pieropan’s or Imana’s basic bottlings. (Buy again? Sure.)
Roero Arneis 2010, Mauro Sebaste ($18.55, 11579986)
100% Arneis. Fermented in stainless steel, aged three to four months in the bottle. Flowery bath powder, then sweet lime, then white peach and crushed leaves; that said, it’s not what you’d call exuberantly aromatic. Dry, smooth and suave on the palate. Initial white fruit turns more acidic and bitter toward finish. Improved as it breathed, gaining crystalline mineral notes. Would make a good aperitif or accompaniment to delicate pasta and fish dishes. (Buy again? Yes.)
Manzoni Bianco 2010, Fontanasanta, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Foradori ($28.90, 11580004)
100% Manzoni Bianco, a cross of Riesling and Pinot Bianco. Aged 12 months in acacia casks. Sweaty funk on the nose and palate. Medium-bodied. Fruity but dry, with strongish acid and a bitter-edged finish. Fair length. Given the winemaker and the wine’s enthusiastic reception by critics, I was expecting more. Perhaps our bottle was slightly off? (Buy again? Only to give it a second chance.)
MWG March 2nd tasting: report (4/4)
Valpolicella Superiore Classico 2002, Giuseppe Quintarelli ($81.00, 10811253)
A blend of old-vine Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara with smaller percentages of Negara, Cabernet, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese. Five or six months after initial fermentation, the wine is refermented, using the ripasso method, in most years with the lees from the estate’s Amarone (but not in 2002, when no Amarone was made). It is then aged for six years in Slavonian oak.
A heady, gorgeous bouquet: ripe red and black fruit, sandalwood, spice and so much more. Opulent and velvety yet supple and fluid. Wave after wave of flavour. Soft and caressing on the surface but with cushy tannins and power in reserve. Infinite finish. Magnificent. (Buy again? Yes. Gulp.)
Amarone della Valpolicella 2006, Marion ($87.50, 10665057)
Corvinone (45%), Covina Gentile (25%), Rondinella (20%) and Croatina and other varieties (10%). The grapes are semi-dried for three months before pressing. Aged about three years in Slavonian oak barrels.
An Initially odd nose (pickled fruit, plastic) blows off, leaving a complex bouquet of plum, red berries, chocolate and graphite. Rich, heady and layered in the mouth. Sweet fruit, slate. Alcoholic but not hot – warming, rather. Mouth-coatingly astringent but somehow not tannic. Endless, coffeed finish. So engaging that time seems suspended as you smell and taste it. (Buy again? If I can scrape up the cash, yes.)
Valpolicella Superiore 2007, Marion ($38.00, 10710268)
Corvina Grossa (60%), Rondinella (20%), Corvina Gentile (10%) and Teroldego and other varieties (10%). Soime of the grapes are semi-dried for about 40 days before pressing, while others are late-harvested and then pressed. The wines are aged separately in small oak barrels for about 30 months before blending and bottling.
Subtle, complex, profound: modelling clay, red and black berries, spice, crushed leaves. Soft and supple on the palate, the texture velvety, the flavours complex and lingering. Long. Very fine. (Buy again? Yes.)
All the wines in this flight were superb. Usually, as an evening progresses, tongues loosen and the noise level rises. But in this instance, after the three wines were poured and people began swirling, sniffing and sipping, an awed hush – broken only by the occasional soft moan of pleasure – fell over the room.
Despite the wonders of the Marions, the Quintarelli stood out for everybody. It is easily one of the best if not the best of their VSCs that I’ve tasted – surprising since 2002 is widely considered a rotten vintage due to heavy rain. Could it have something to do with the fact the estate made no Amarone in 2002, in theory freeing up the superior grapes for the lesser wines? Hard to know, as there are almost no reviews or discussion of the wine on the Web (though SAQ haters take note: it’s listed at Columbus Circle Wines for US$85+ vs. C$81 here, and the NY price doesn’t include sales tax).
MWG March 2nd tasting: report (3/4)
Colli Berici 2008, Montebelvedere, Dal Maso ($19.95, 11581007)
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from 12-year-old vines. Fermented in stainless steel, aged 12 months in second-vintage Allier oak barriques and botti. Identifiably Cabernet nose of cassis, mint/celery and cedar wood. Medium-bodied and balanced, with a core of sweet fruit and no greenness. Not very tannic. Fair length. A bit simple and anonymous but definitely drinkable. (Buy again? If in the market for a $20 Cab, sure.)
IGT Toscana 2008, Cabernet Sauvignon, San Fabiano Calcinaia ($25.95, 11546914)
90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot. Spent 15 months in first and second-vintage barriques. Umami nose: tamari, cordovan leather, shaved wood. Medium to full-bodied. Quite tannic. Dark and inky palate not showing much fruit. Plum, cocoa and iodine-scented finish. Needs another year or two in the bottle. (Buy again? If in the market for a $25 Cab, sure.)
IGT Umbria 2005, Rosso Outsider, Arnaldo Caprai ($30.25, 11580821)
A 50-50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 18 months in French oak barrels. Brooding nose of plum and clean sweat, developing cedar and graphite notes. Somewhat closed (or maybe just austere by nature) but also tasting far more Italian than the other two bottles. Chewy but not heavy fruit, rustic but ripe tannins. Long, dark finish. Straightforward, close to the earth, appealing. (Buy again? Yes.)
MWG March 2nd tasting: report (2/4)
Venezia Giulia IGT 2008, Red Angel on the Moonlight, Jermann ($27.35, 11035786)
Pinot Noir and possibly a dollop of Merlot. Aged a year in French oak barrels and tuns. Deep burgundy to the eye. Mint, light red berries and a hint of oak on the nose. Medium to full-bodied, dry and silky. Ripe fruit shares spotlight with slatey minerals and oak. Bitterish finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Pinot Noir 2009, Unfiltered, VQA Prince Edward County, Hardie Wines ($35.00, LCBO 125310)
Update (12-03-22): This wine (and two others from Hardie’s stable) has just been added to the SAQ catalogue ($38.50, 11638499).
Clear, pale ruby, almost corail. Sour cherry, beet, earth, a little spice. Light, acidic, refreshing despite some woody overtones. Sweetens as it breathes, showing more structure (minerals and fine tannins). Decent finish. (Buy again? Hard to justify from a QPR standpoint but if the price ever drops to $25, sure.)
Breganze 2009, Pinot Nero, Maculan ($18.80, 11580987)
Again, deep burgundy. Cherry – a bit candied – and a hint of smoky tar. Smooth and velvety, the juicy fruit given shape by supple tannins and soft acidity. Not particularly deep, long or Burgundian but at $19, who’s complaining? (Buy again? Sure.)
November 3rd MWG tasting: report
To staunch the flow of carping about the infrequency of updates to this site, here are some quick notes – little more than a transcription, really – on the wines in the Mo’ Wine Group’s latest tasting. With one exception, the bottles are from the November 3rd Cellier release and, for once, many of them are still available.
THREE FRENCH SPARKLERS
Montlouis, Brut non-dosé, Méthode traditionnelle, François Chidaine ($22.95, 11537049)
Yellow apple, hint of citrus peel, gaining floral and winey notes as it warmed and breathed. Tiny, soft bubbles, fruity but dry. Acid-bright and clean. Long minerally finish with a faint bitter edge. (Buy again? Yes.)
Crémant du Jura 2008, Domaine Labet Père et fils ($20.80, 11549162)
Chalkier nose showing a little oxidation. A bit enigmatic. Simple upfront, the flavours tending to lemon and quartz, but maintaining a presence, a grip, after the flavours fade. Lingering sourness. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Vouvray, Brut, Domaine Huet ($26.95, 11537022)
Oxidized apple peel with notes of honey, ash and peach. Strong bead. Rich and dense with a strong current of acidity. Fruit slow-fades to minerals on the long finish. (Buy again? Yes.)
The two Loire wines were winners: the Chidaine lighter, fresher and full of immediate appeal; the Huet richer, slower to open up, built for the long haul. The Labet (a new arrival not in the Cellier release) was good but Tissot’s crémant at about the same price is even better.
THREE CHAMPAGNES
Champagne, Terre de Vertus, Premier cru, Larmandier-Bernier ($71.00, 11528011)
A blanc de blancs (100% Chardonnay) with zero dosage. Straightforward nose (apple, yeast, hint of lemon at first) that became more complex (“cream soda,” said one taster; “dried coconut” chimed in another). Light, elegant, clean. Delicate bubbles. Quite dry and long. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Champagne, Tradition Grand cru, Brut, Égly-Ouriet ($80.00, 11538025)
Mostly Pinot Noir. Nose of apple, toast and pastry cream, initially a little anonymous but slowly gaining character. Fine bead. Initially light and elegant, almost to a fault, but gaining complexity and depth in the glass. Pure and long but none of us got Phaneuf’s “multidimensionnel … doté de ces multiples couches de saveurs qui sont la marque des grands vins.” (Buy again? Probably not.)
Champagne, Grand cru, Blanc de Noirs, E. Barnaut ($46.25, 11152958)
Classic champagne nose of bread and hazelnuts with notes of oxidized apple. Winey texture enlivened by assertive bubbles. Clean and vibrant if a little short on depth and complexity. Unlike the other two, did not improve in the glass. (Buy again? Maybe.)
All were good but none knocked our socks off. The Barnaut’s QPR isn’t bad but it lacked some of the finesse of the other two. The group was evenly split when it came to declaring a preference between the fresher Larmandier-Bernier and the richer Égly-Ouriet.
FOUR JURA WHITES
L’Étoile 2008, Domaine de Montbourgeau ($21.90, 11557541)
Chardonnay with a dash of Savagnin. Complex nose with a sourish edge: oxidized apple, “caramel nuts,” “golden raisins in marc,” “fresh figs,” silage and a whiff of cheese. Winey yet fluid, fruit balanced by minerals and acid. Long, flavourful finish. The very model of a Jura white. (Buy again? Definitely.)
Côtes du Jura 2009, Fleurs, Domaine Labet Père et Fils ($22.90, 11556952)
Chardonnay that, unlike many traditional Jura whites, is not allowed to oxidize. The result here is a fairly pure expression of the grape variety. Fruity on the attack, round in the mouth, buttressed by a welcome acidity. Good finish with lingering notes of straw, honey and spice. (Buy again? Sure.)
Arbois 2009, Les Bruyères, Bénédictine et Stéphane Tissot ($35.75, 11542139)
100% Chardonnay. By far the most complex nose of the bunch: mushroom, turpentine, gunflint and sesame along with the expected apple and spice. Smooth and fluid on the palate, the sweet-seeming attack quickly giving way to layers of flavour and a rich fruitiness that belies the wine’s dryness. Long and balanced. A few years in the bottle will do it a world of good. (Buy again? Yes.)
Côtes du Jura 2005, Les Compères, Essencia ($25.95, 11544003)
100% Chardonnay. A bit of an oddball. Appealing if surprising nose of strawberry napoleons (fruit, puff pastry and pastry cream all there). Typically jurassien on the palate, a fruity density underpinned by refreshing acidity. Fairly long, nut-scented finish. Simple but fun. (Buy again? If looking for a white vin plaisir, sure.)
A popular flight, with just about everyone liking all the wines. Several of us considered the Montbourgeau the winner, a classic Jura white with a great QPR. The Labet was the closest to a non-Jura Chardonnay. The Tissot needs time but has potential. The Essencia was unlike any other white I’ve tasted, not that there’s anything wrong with that.
TWO LIGHTER REDS
Arbois 2009, Poulsard, Vieilles vignes, Domaine Rolet Père et Fils ($19.95, 11537090)
And now for something completely different. Pale transparent red, the Jura’s traditional corail (I’ve seen darker rosés). Double-take nose of strawberry, hay and black pepper (detractors in search of descriptors were more inclined to reach for body excretions). Light-bodied, high acid yet, oddly, intensely fruity. Tannins light but raspy. Stemmy finish. Cries out for some charcuterie. (Buy again? I just might.)
Veneto 2007, Primofiore, Giuseppe Quintarelli ($54.25, 11542518)
Take a green bell pepper, stuff it with spicy rice and meat and roast it in a tomato sauce: that’s the nose of this wine. Medium-bodied, fluid, with a perfumy mid-palate, light but firm tannins and just enough acidity. Long, spicy finish. Not particularly deep but full of character and unlike any other red I’ve encountered. (Buy again? Tempted but the price is dissuasive.)
A love-it-or-hate-it-flight. Some tasters were horrified, even outraged by the Poulsard and had trouble believing that several of us actually derived pleasure from the wine. Opinions were almost as divided by the Quintarelli, richer and spicier but still with a streak of green. I enjoyed it but not to the point that I’d fork over $54 for another bottle. (Edit: The taster who took home the tail-end of the bottle reports: “At the Thursday tasting I left the Quintarelli in my glass until the end of the evening to see if it improved – and it did, by a bit, so I brought home what was left in the bottle, and tried it the next day – the harshness and green pepper had completely blown off, and it was far softer and fruitier. Not that I would go running to drop $55 on another bottle of it, but it’s nice to know that it just really needed to sit, and wasn’t a dud Quintarelli.”)
THREE LEFT-BANK RED BORDEAUX
Haut-Médoc 2008, Château d’Agassac ($26.95, 11188336)
Textbook left-bank Bordeaux. Nose of cedar, cassis and oak with green bell pepper and black pepper notes. Good balance of fruit, acid and tannins. Pure flavours. Longish though not particularly deep. (Buy again? If looking for an everyday red Bordeaux, sure.)
Médoc 2008, Château d’Escurac ($23.80, 11194584)
Meatier and greener nose than the Agassac’s, showing some pencil lead. Tight, tannic, austere. Cedary finish. A bit flat. Doesn’t cohere.Might be better in a year or two but, on the whole, this lacks appeal. (Buy again? No.)
Saint-Julien 2008, Clos du Marquis (Château Léoville Las Cases) ($59.74, 11184520)
Nothing like earlier vintages we’ve tried. Spice, green pepper and an elusive mustiness that had us wondering whether it was corked or scalped. Disjointed and harsh in the mouth. Probably an off bottle. (Buy again? Moot.]
This flight was something of a let-down, with the potentially most interesting bottle not up to scratch. Would that I’d had the budget to go with my original idea: Clos du Marquis, Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon and Dominus.
November 4th MWG tasting: report
Notes on 15 wines from the November 4th Cellier release. Prices are in Canadian dollars and include sales taxes.
FLIGHT 1
Mosel 2008, Riesling, Mönchhof ($17.45, 11334920)
Light breezy nose of white flowers, lime and minerals. Off-dry and a little spritzy. Medium acidity, pure fruit, rainwater finish. Pleasant though more grip would be welcome. Vin terrasse. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Pinot Gris 2008, Acrobat, Oregon, King Estate ($17.95, 11333767)
Wax and pear with dried herb and lactic notes. Fluid but unctuous with just-noticeable residual sugar. A little facile, though a mildly mineral/bitter/astringent substrate hints at deeper things. Enough acidity to keep things fresh. Fair finish. (Buy again? Probably not.)
Columbia Valley 2009, Riesling, Evergreen Vineyard, Efesté Wine ($21.50, 11334760)
7-Up and minerals on the nose. Lemon-lime, minerals and herbs on the palate. Nearly dry and what sugar there is is counterbalanced by acidity. Fruity finish. Requires vigorous chewing to show any depth. (Buy again? Probably not when Germans offer more bang for the buck.)
Central Otago 2009, Riesling, Target Gully, Mt. Difficulty ($25.60, 11334778)
Petrol, lime, tarragon and a hint of BO. A mouthful of minerals and yellow citrus with a dollop of residual sugar. Fair length. Could use more oomph, especially more acid, but clearly the most complete and dimensional wine in the flight. (Buy again? Probably not when Germans offer more bang for the buck.)
FLIGHT 2
Chehalem Mountains 2006, Pinot Noir, Carabella Vineyard ($27.65, 11333791)
Sweet red berries, hints of forest floor. Sweet fruity attack, oaky mid-palate and bitter-edged finish. Bright acid. Lacks depth. Not unpleasant but unexceptional. (Buy again? Not when you can find better Burgundies for the same price.)
Willamette Valley 2007, Pinot Noir, 3 Vineyard, Chehalem Wines ($32.75, 11333783)
Not particularly appealing nose of spice, beet and oak. Medium-bodied. Oak-heavy choco-cherry with some herby mid-palate nuance. Hot finish. Yuk! (Buy again? No way.)
Langhe 2007, Nebbiolo, La Spinetta ($28.90, 11337979)
Ink, raspberry, cherry, minerals, tar, Asian spice. Dense but not heavy fruit, mineral underlay. Tight tannins. Fluid texture. Lingering bitter-edged finish. Needs a few years to knit together and smooth out. (Buy again? If looking for a modern-style Nebbiolo, yep.)
Barolo 2005, Albe, G. D. Vajra ($35.25, 11337944)
Nail polish, shoe leather, dried roses. Fluid but rich. Pure fruit and background oak. Tight tannins and bright acid. Earthy finish. Seems ready to go. Despite the wine’s interesting qualities, several of us wondered whether our bottle wasn’t defective (ethyl acetate), a disappointment as I’d been looking forward to tasting this bottling from a producer whose other wines I’ve often enjoyed. (Buy again? Another bottle to see if ours was off.)
FLIGHT 3
Etna 2006, Rosso di Verzella, Benanti ($20.65, 11348459)
A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio given about ten months in small casks. Wafting nose of dried black cherry, baked earth, rosemary. Round, smooth and savoury. Medium-bodied. Lively acid gives freshness. Round tannins provide structure. Soft, long finish. A charmer. (Buy again? If only I could…)
Valpolicella Superiore Classico 2007, Ripasso, Pojega, Guerrieri Rizzardi ($22.65, 11331681)
Blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara. Roasted red peppers, spice. Sweet plummy fruit enlivened by acid, underpinned by fine tannins. Rich, smooth and harmonious with a long, savoury finish and lingering impression of warmth (not heat). A winner. (Buy again? Yes.)
Monferrato 2007, Pin, La Spinetta ($49.75, 11337987)
Blend of barrel-aged Nebbiolo (65%) and Barbera (35%). Exuberant nose of spice, leaf mould, wood and black cherry with a floral note. Pure fruit. Dense and plush. Good acid. Quite tannic. Long astringent finish. Needs time. Modern but in a good way. (Buy again? Price is the only thing holding me back.)
FLIGHT 4
Valle de Colchagua 2008, Quatro, MontGras ($17.95, 11331737)
Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Carmenère (20%), Malbec (20%) and Syrah (15%). Spent 11 months in casks, 30% new. Nose of bacon, Keds, dried herbs and telltale tomato vine. Smooth on the palate, with ripe fruit and noticeable oak. Cocoa finish. Straightforward, balanced and pleasant if a little facile. Good QPR. (Buy again? Sure, if you like the style.)
Columbia Valley 2007, River’s Red, Three Rivers Winery ($19.90, 11336466)
A dog’s breakfast blend of Syrah, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Trempranillo. Fresh nose: cassis, herbs, green pepper, spice. Clean if somewhat candied fruit, smooth tannins, oaky finish. Simple but fun. (Buy again? Sure, if you like the style.)
Columbia Valley 2007, Cabernet Sauvignon, L’École N° 41 ($37.75, 10707093)
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Spent 22 months in oak barrels, a third of them new. Cheese grains, cassis. Rich fruit, touch of residual sugar, oak in background. Good acid, light tannins that become more prominent with aeration. Shorter than expected for a wine in this price bracket. In fact, the wine overall seemed a bit one-dimensional and a little disjointed. Needs time? (Buy again? Only out of curiosity to see how it might develop.)
Yakima Valley 2006, Boushey Vineyard, Fidélitas Wines ($58.75, 11335421)
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Cabernet Franc. Spent 24 months in casks, half of them new. Cassis, black raspberry and fresh dill. Sweet fruit buttressed by rich tannins, freshened by acidity. Plush texture. Layers of flavour. Long. A complete wine. Quite impressive in its style. (Buy again? If in the market for a full-bore West Coast Bordeaux blend, sure.)
October 21st MWG tasting: report
Notes from one of the most enjoyable Mo’ Wine Group tastings in recent memory. All wines except two are available at the SAQ; the exceptions are private imports that can be ordered from the linked-to agents. Prices are in Canadian dollars and include sales taxes.
FLIGHT 1: FOUR $25 CHARDONNAYS
Chablis 2009, Terroirs de Chablis, Patrick Piuze ($24.65, 11180334)
Made on a négociant basis using native yeasts by 30-something Patrick Piuze, who hails from St-Lambert. Textbook Chablis nose: gunflint, oats, hints of butter and lemon zest. Mild on entry but fast gaining intensity. Pure and minerally, crystalline even. Long, biting finish. Mouth-watering: as fine a Chablis as you’ll find at the price. (Buy again? Impérativement.)
Montello e Colli Asolani 2007, Chardonnay, Villa di Maser ($24.95, 6 bottles/case, Sublime Vins & Spiritueux)
Gold-hued, in contrast to the silver of the other wines in the flight. Smelling a little candied and oxidized: browning yellow apple with pineapple hints. Rounder and denser than the other wines, though nicely balanced. Mild flavoured: straw and minerals more than fruit. Vaporous finish. Seemed to retreat into its shell with exposure to air. Different from – less angular and stony than – the bottle tasted two days earlier, but equally intriguing. (Buy again? Sure, another bottle or two.)
Rully 2008, Les Saint-Jacques, A. & P. de Villaine ($26.60, 10339041)
Introverted, elusive nose: chalk, white flowers and a hint of lanolin. Rich and flavourful (green apple and minerals) with an acidic undertow. Limestoney finish. Impeccable though a little more personality wouldn’t be unwelcome. (Buy again? Maybe but not while the Terroirs de Chablis and Les Clous are available.)
Bourgogne 2008, Les Clous, A. & P. de Villaine ($24.35, 00872168)
Lemon zest and chalk. Medium-bodied, the components better integrated than the Rully’s. Flavours more minerally than fruity, the long, bitter-edged finish more felt than tasted. A lovely, appetizing wine that several of us preferred to the Rully. (Buy again? Sure.)
FLIGHT 2: TWO GAUBY WHITES
VDP des Côtes Catalanes 2004, Le Soula (Gérard Gauby et associés) ($50.75, 10933365)
35% Grenache Blanc and Gris, 35% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Marsanne, Roussane, Macabeu and Chenin, all organically farmed. Native yeasts. Bronze cast to the eye. Wonderfully complex nose: caramelized pear, rocks, herbs, dried pineapple, ash, nutmeg. Smooth, rich and round but with an acid undercurrent. Considerable depth and great length. Probably at its peak or maybe even just past it. The MWG member who took the tail-end of the bottle home with him reports that the wine was still singing 24 hours later. Only a few bottles left in the system. (Buy again? If the budget allows.)
VDP des Côtes Catalanes 2007, Vieilles vignes, Domaine Gauby ($49.50, 11225184)
40% Macabeu, 30% Grenache Blanc, 15% Chardonnay, 10% Grenache Gris and 5% Carignan Blanc. Native yeasts. Lighter and more golden. Complex but hard-to-pin-down nose that evolved all evening: mineral oil, garrigue, ash, resin, white fruit, acacia blossom, maybe even some caramel… Rich, almost viscous texture kept from heaviness by an acidic backbone and austere minerality. Broad, deep and layered, turning quartzy on the persistent finish. A superb bottle that, with Rouge Gorge’s Macabéo, shares the honour of being the best Languedoc-Roussillon white I’ve tasted. (Buy again? Will make the budget allow.)
FLIGHT 3: THREE MONDEUSES AND A CLUNKER RINGER
Vin de Savoie 2007, Mondeuse Arbin, Domaine Louis Magnin ($24.20, 10783272)
Black cherry, stones, hint of barnyard. Clean, lean and polished. Sour cherry fruit with a sweet core, fine tannins, bright acidity and a long finish. Wonderfully pure and fresh, as befits its alpine origins. (Buy again? Definitely.)
Vin de Savoie 2007, Mondeuse, Domaine des Rocailles ($14.95, 11194357)
Ash, cherry jam, humus and a whiff of caramel. Light-bodied. Flavours as minerally as fruity. Light, raspy tannins, tickly acid. Bit of astringency on the finish. Could use more oomph but still a good buy at $15, more interesting than many Beaujolais costing several dollars more. (Buy again? Sure.)
Vin de Savoie 2007, Mondeuse, Le Pied de la Barme, Domaine Saint-Germain ($21.85, 10884735)
Fruity, sappy nose with spice and floral notes, not unlike a Beaujolais but with a blood note. A fluid, tasty mouthful of cherry fruit and minerals. A tad funkier than the Magnin. Lively acidity, fine tannins and a long finish. Savoury and elegant. (Buy again? Sure.)
Valle d’Aosta 2007, Mille Pendii, Chambave, Podere Castorani ($25.25, 10780418)
100% Petit Rouge, a variety that Hugh Johnson claims “tastes suspiciously like Mondeuse.” Spice, raspberry and oak with hints of plastic and old sweat. Over-concentrated and tarted up with oak (caramel, vanilla, chocolate). Velvety instead of silky, leaden instead of sprightly, gummy instead of pure. Finish lasts long, far too long. What by any rights should be a light-bodied easy drinker is here a juiced-up wannabe super wine. All flash and no substance. (Buy again? Ha!)
FLIGHT 4: AN ELEGANT SYRAH WITH A QUEBEC CONNECTION
Coteaux du Languedoc 2006, Cuvée Prestige 5 921 km, Terrenum ($38.00, 6 bottles/case, Réserve et Sélection)
100% Syrah from low-yielding old vines in Montpeyroux. Spent nine months in new French oak barrels. Total production: 960 bottles. Made on a négociant basis by Montrealer Simon Thibaudeau. Beautiful, complex bouquet: leather, black and red berries, animale and garrigue, gaining a mineral earthiness and hints of iodine and blood with exposure to air. Smooth and plush on the palate but with a solid tannic frame. More medium- than full-bodied. Fluid, fresh and finely flavoured. The oak is an element, not overpowering; indeed, all the elements are in balance. Long finish. Delicious if a little introverted for now, not peaking for another three or four years and probably able to age another five or maybe even ten years beyond that. (Buy again? Yes.)
FLIGHT 5: THREE TELEGRAPHIC REDS
Gigondas 2007, Les Racines, Domaine Les Pallières ($35.25, 11288409)
80% Grenache Noir, 15% co-planted Syrah and Cinsault, 5% Clairette. Spent ten months in vats, 7-9 months in foudres. Since 1998, the domaine has been owned by Berkeley-based wine merchant Kermit Lynch and the Bruniers, who also own Vieux Télégraphe and who look after the wine-making here. Cookie dough, plum and spice; gains marzipan notes as it breathes. Mouth-filling sweet and savoury fruit. Silky texture despite a tannic underpinning. A bit hot (15.4% ABV) on the long finish, which, as one taster pointed out, has something Banyuls or Maury about it. The MWG member who took the tail-end home with him reports that the wine had fallen apart the next day. (Buy again? Probably not.)
Gigondas 2007, Terrasse du Diable, Domaine Les Pallières ($35.00, 00725937)
90% Grenache Noir, 5% Mourvèdre and 5% Clairette. Spent ten months in vats, 12 months in foudres. Complex and evolving nose: tarry plums, garrigue, baked earth and wood. Supple, smooth and fruity on entry but giving way to a rich mid-palate marked by coursing acid and firm tannins that last through the long, kirsch- and herb-scented finish. Big but balanced. (Buy again? Sure, though 15.2% ABV does give one pause.)
Châteauneuf du Pape 2007, La Crau, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe ($75.25, 11268897)
65% Grenache Noir, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 5% Clairette and others. Spent ten months in vats, 12 months in foudres. Beautiful nose: heady, brooding with scents of terra cotta, kirsch, crushed rocks, dark fruit, black olives, sweet spice. An elegant mouthful of similar flavours, rich and full-bodied yet not heavy, structured by ripe, round tannins, balanced by acidity. Sweet and savoury intertwine on the seemingly endless finish. Surprisingly accessible for so young a Vieux Télégraphe but also capable of aging for at least a couple of decades. (Buy again? Santa, be good to me!)
Chablis 2009, Terroirs de Chablis, Patrick Piuze ($24.65, 11180334)
Textbook Chablis nose: gunflint, oats, hints of butter and lemon zest. Mild on entry but fast gaining intensity. Pure and minerally, even crystalline. Long, biting finish. Mouth-watering: as good a Chablis as you can get at the price. (Buy again? Mais oui.)
Montello e Colli Asolani 2007, Chardonnay, Villa di Maser ($24.95, Sublime Vins & Spiritueux)
Gold-hued, in contrast to the silver of the other wines in the flight. Smelling a little candied and oxidized: browning yellow apple with pineapple hints. Rounder and denser than the other wines, though nicely balanced. Mild flavoured: straw and minerals more than fruit. Vaporous finish. Seemed to retreat into its shell with exposure to air. Different from – less angular and stony than – the bottle tasted two days’ earlier, but equally intriguing. (Buy again? Yeah, another bottle.)
Rully 2008, Les St-Jacques, A. & P. de Villaine ($26.60, 10339041)
Introverted, elusive: chalk, white flowers and a hint of lanolin. Rich and flavourful (green apple and minerals) with an acidic undertow. Limestoney finish. Impeccable though a little more personality wouldn’t be unwelcome. (Buy again? Not while the Terroirs de Chablis and Les Clous are available.)
Bourgogne 2008, Les Clous, A. & P. de Villaine ($24.35, 00872168)
Lemon zest and chalk. Medium-bodied, the components better integrated than the Rully’s. Flavours more minerally than fruity, the long, bitter-edged finish more felt than tasted. A lovely, appetizing wine that several of us preferred to the Rully. (Buy again? Sure.)
VDP des Côtes Catalanes 2004, Le Soula (Gérard Gauby et associés) ($50.75, 10933365)
Bronze cast to the eye. Extremely complex nose: caramelized pear, rocks, herbs, dried pineapple, ash, nutmeg. Smooth, rich and round but with an acid undercurrent. Considerable depth and great length. Probably at its peak or maybe even just past it. The MWG member who took the tail-end of the bottle home with him reports that the wine was still singing 24 hours later. (Buy again? If the budget allows.)
VDP des Côtes Catalanes 2007, Vieilles vignes, Domaine Gauby ($49.50, 11225184)
Lighter and more golden. Complex but hard-to-pin-down nose that evolved all evening: mineral oil, garrigue, ash, resin, white fruit, acacia blossom, maybe even some caramel… Rich texture kept fresh by animating acidity. Great breadth and depth. Layers of flavour. Long, increasingly quartzy finish. A superb bottle that shares with the Rouge Gorge Macabéo the honour of being the best Midi whites I’ve tasted. (Buy again? Will make the budget allow.)
Vin de Savoie 2007, Mondeuse Arbin, Domaine Louis Magnin ($24.20, 10783272)
Black cherry, stones, hint of barnyard. Clean, lean and polished. Black cherry with a sweet core, fine tannins, bright acidity and long finish. Wonderfully pure and fresh, as befits its alpine origins. (Buy again? Definitely.)
Vin de Savoie 2007, Mondeuse, Domaine des Rocailles ($14.95, 11194357)
Ash, cherry jam, humus and a whiff of caramel. Light-bodied. Flavours as minerally as fruity. Light but raspy tannins, tickly acid. Bit of astringency on the finish. Could use more oomph but still a good buy at $15, more interesting than many Beaujolais costing several dollars more. (Buy again? Sure.)
Vin de Savoie 2007, Mondeuse, Le Pied de la Barme, Domaine Saint-Germain ($21.85, 10884735)
Fruity, sappy nose with spice and floral notes, not unlike a Beaujolais but with a blood note. A fluid, tasty mouthful of cherry fruit and minerals. A little funkier than the Magnin. Animating acidity, fine tannins and a long finish. Savoury and elegant. (Buy again? Sure.)
Valle d’Aoste 2007, Mille Pendii, Chambave, Podere Castorani ($25.25, 10780418)
Spice, raspberry and oak with hints of plastic and old sweat. Over-concentrated and heavily tarted up with oak (caramel, vanilla, chocolate). Velvety instead of silky, leaden instead of lively, gummy instead of pure. Finish lasts long, far too long. What by any rights should be a light-bodied easy drinker is here juiced up into a wannabe super wine. All flash and no substance. (Buy again? Ha!)
Coteaux du Languedoc 2006, Cuvée Prestige 5 921 km, Terrenum ($38.00, Réserve et Sélecton)
100% Syrah from low-yielding old vines in Montpeyroux. Spends nine months in new French oak barrels. Made on a négociant basis by Montrealer Simon Thibaudeau. Beautiful, complex nose: leather, black and red berries, animale and garrigue. Gains a mineral earthiness and hints of iodine and blood as it breathes. Smooth and plush on the palate but with a solid tannic frame, more medium- than full-bodied. Fluid, fresh and finely flavoured. The oak is an element, not overpowering; indeed, all the elements are in balance. Long finish. Delicious if a little introverted now, not peaking for another three or four years and probably able to age another five or maybe even ten years beyond that. (Buy again? Yes.)
Gigondas 2007, Les Racines, Domaine Les Pallières ($35.25, 11288409)
80% Grenache Noir, 15% co-planted Syrah and Cinsault, 5% Clairette. Spends ten months in vats, 7–9 months in foudres. Cookie dough, plum and spice; gains marzipan notes as it breathes. Mouth-filling sweet and savoury fruit. Silky texture despite a tannic underpinning. A bit hot (15.4% ABV) on a long finish that, as one taster pointed out, has something of a Banyuls or Maury about it. The MWG member who took the tail-end home with him reports that the wine had fallen apart the next day. (Buy again? Probably not.)
Gigondas 2007, Terrasse du Diable, Domaine Les Pallières ($35.00, 00725937)
90% Grenache Noir, 5% Mourvèdre and 5% Clairette. Spends ten months in vats, 12 months in foudres. Complex and evolving nose: tarry plums, garrigue, baked earth and wood. Supple, smooth and fruity on entry but giving way to a rich mid-palate marked by coursing acid and firm tannins that last through the long, kirsch- and herb-scented finish. Big but balanced. (Buy again? Sure, though 15.2% ABV does give one pause.)
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007, La Crau, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe ($75.25, 11268897)
65% Grenache Noir, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 5% Clairette and others. Spends ten months in vats, 12 months in foudres. Beautiful nose: heady, brooding with scents of terra cotta, kirsch, crushed rocks, dark fruit, black olives, sweet spice. An elegant mouthful of similar flavours, rich and full-bodied yet not heavy, structured by ripe, round tannins, balanced by acidity. Sweet and savoury intertwine on the seemingly endless finish. Surprisingly accessible for so young a Vieux Télégraphe but also capable of aging for at least a couple of decades. (Buy again? Santa, be good to me!)
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