Archive for May 2012
MWG April Jura tastings: report (6/6)
The Jura counterpart to Pineau des Charentes and Floc de Gascogne, Macvin du Jura is a vin de liqueur, a sweet and powerful blend of two-thirds grape juice and one-third Marc du Jura (pomace brandy) that is aged up to 30 months in casks. Macvin comes in white, pink and red varieties (usually the first) and, despite having been around since at least the 14th century, was granted its own AOC only in 1991. Locals serve it chilled as an aperitif, with desserts or after dinner mixed with marc (usually one part Macvin to two parts marc).
Macvin du Jura, Jean Bourdy ($47.00, 3 btls/case, La QV)
A rare rosé Macvin. Strawberry, fruit cake and dried spice (caraway, clove, cinnamon). Sweetness balanced by acidity and spice. Lingers long. Excellent. (Buy again? Yes.)
Macvin Rouge, Pinot Noir, André et Mireille Tissot ($39.25, 6 btls/case, Les Vins Alain Bélanger)
Deep red. Candied cherry on steroids, spice and an undernote of dried blood. Dense, fruity sweetness lifted by acid and alcohol. Marathon finish. Fascinating. (Buy again? Yes.)
Stéphane Tissot suggests chocolate as a pairing for his red Macvin. At the tastings, it was successfully served with squares of Valrhona Guanaja bittersweet chocolate. Further research conducted a few days later found it an unbeatable match with a selection of exquisite chocolate, hazlenut, pistachio and raspberry pastries from Olivier Potier.
What to eat with vin jaune?
At the Mo’ Wine Group’s recent Jura tastings, the vin jaunes were served with old Comté and walnut bread, a classic pairing that brings out the best in the wines. A few attendees asked about other vin jaune-friendly dishes and I promised to post a couple of recipes, one for lobster and another for chicken. You’ll find them after the jump.
There are, of course, other options. White meats, poultry (especially from Bresse), escargots, sweetbreads, crayfish, lobster and langoustine, often in preparations involving cream, curry and/or saffron, are frequently recommended. More specifically, a French food and wine-pairing book suggests veal Orloff, duck à l’orange, chicken waterzoï and pork curry (by which is meant pork cubes in a cream sauce mildly flavoured with curry powder) and even tarte Tatin. While I’ve never tried serving vin jaune with dessert (the wine’s dryness would seem to rule out such pairings), I admit to having enjoyed it with the Masse amande aux noix et au curry, a cube of barely sweetened walnut- and curry-flavoured almond paste in a bitter chocolate shell, created by the exceptional Arbois-based chocolate maker Hirsinger specifically to go with the wine.
Note that for cooking purposes, Marcel Cabelier’s 2003 Château-Chalon ($44.25, 10884778), the least expensive vin jaune available at the monopoly, is perfectly adequate.
MWG April Jura tastings: report (5/6)
Vin jaune? After conventional and malolactic fermentation, Savagnin is transferred to old Burgundy barrels that are only partially filled. The barrels are stored in a well-ventilated “cellar” (which may, in fact, be above ground) subject to temperature fluctuations. A yeasty veil forms, protecting and flavouring the wine. After six years, the wine is racked and bottled in clavelins, squat 620-ml bottles (620 ml said to be the amount left from a litre of wine after six years in a barrel, the rest being lost to evaporation). The vin jaune selection process is rigorous and wine that doesn’t make the grade is often sold as plain Savagnin or blended with Chardonnay.
Vin jaune is made throughout the Jura, though many consider the small, jaune-only appellation of Château-Chalon (after the village of the same name) to be the source of the best.
Arbois 2003, Vin Jaune, Rolet Père et Fils ($57.25, 00880872)
Fresh, complex, pure: nuts, silage, maple sap and caramel. Intense attack. Very present but somehow fleet, largely due to the acidity. Light layers of flavour. Turns milder on the long, nutty finish. Classic. (Buy again? Yes.)
Arbois 2004, Vin Jaune, André et Mireille Tissot ($69.50, 10322581)
Lifting nose of nuts, corn, cheese and a hint of caramel. Complex and deep with a minerally substrate and light, fluid texture. Exquisite balance. Long, faintly sour but remarkably fresh finish. Delicious now but capable of aging for decades. One of the best vin jaunes ever sold at the SAQ. (Buy again? Absolutely.)
Château-Chalon 2004, Jean Bourdy (a tail-end graciously provided by La QV)
Relatively closed nose of oxidized apples, nuts, minerals and a whiff of corn silage. Light on the palate yet intensely flavoured. Enduring, nut-scented finish. Lovely. (Buy again? Moot but yes.)
Château-Chalon 1990, Domaine Baud (a c. 1998 importation valise from the cellar)
Based in Le Vernois, a kilometre or so southwest of Château-Chalon, the Baud family has been making wine for eight generations. In Quebec, the estate is represented by Anthocyane.
A not very jaune-like bouquet: relatively little in the way of oxidative aromas yet showing a marked umami scent that one taster likened to shiitake mushrooms. Fluid and delicate on the palate, the fine layers of flavour – including a touch of curry – underpinned by an equally fine acidity. Very dry. A caramel note chimes in on the savoury finish. Fully mature. Just lovely. (Buy again? Moot but yes.)
MWG April Jura tastings: report (4/6)
Savagnin, the Jura’s flagship grape, is thought to be identical to the Traminer variety (and Alsace’s Gewurztraminer may be a musqué mutation). It’s the only grape used to make vin jaune. Regular Savagnin has traditionally been vinified like vin jaune: aged in barrels and not topped up (“non ouillé“), creating a head space that allows the wine to oxidize and be covered by a veil of flor-like yeast, both of which give it a nutty/corny flavour. Some estates have begun making a new breed of Savagnin wines that are not allowed to oxidize, which preserves their fresh grapey character; these are often labelled fleur, though Stéphane Tissot calls his Traminer. Unoxidized Savagnin should be served chilled; oxidized Savagnin, like vin jaune, is best served at something closer to cool room temperature.
Arbois 2008, Savagnin, La Cave de la Reine Jeanne ($27.55, 10783871)
Spends 24 months in barrels with no topping up. Oxidized nose with notes of hazelnut and curry powder. Round texture with a good balance between fruit and acid. Nuttiness, some spice and a little honey. Dry. Persistent, tangy finish. (Buy again? Sure.)
Côtes du Jura 2009, Fleur de Savagnin, Domaine Labet ($28.90, 10783248)
Muted nose of lemon and minerals. Lemony acid, stone fruit and spice burst across the palate. Crystalline texture. Racy and long. (Buy again? Yes.)
Arbois 2007, Savagnin, Jacques Tissot ($29.05, 11460686)
Classic oxidized nose: corn, yellow fruit, slight nuttiness. Faintly honeyed fruit and high acidity play against a mineral backdrop. Yellow apple, straw and hazelnut finish. A fine, even elegant wine, perfectly representative of the non-ouillé style, though mild-mannered and lacking the last bit of éclat to make it a truly memorable bottle. (Buy again? Sure.)
Côtes du Jura 2006, Savagnin, Les Sarres, Domaine Rijckaert ($32.15, 6 btls/case, La QV)
Hailing from Flemish Belgium, Jean Rijckaert makes wine in the Jura and in Burgundy’s Mâcon.
Fresh nose dominated by yellow fruit aromas (pineapple, lemon). Vibrant fruit and acidity, rounded by a honey note, mark the palate. Pink grapefruit and mineral flavours mark the long finish. (Buy again? Yes.)
Côtes du Jura 2008, Fleur de Savagnin, Julien Labet ($34.25, 6 btls/case, oenopole)
Not particularly expressive nose: stone fruit and a briny note. Full on the palate, the rich fruit cut by bright acidity. Flavours include lemon, spice and “rice.” Strong finish. (Buy again? Yes.)
Côtes du Jura 2007, Domaine Jean Macle (c. $36 @ Chambers Street Wines)
Another legendary Jura producer, the reclusive Jean Macle is known above all for his Château-Chalon. He also makes crémant and this white Côtes du Jura.
85% Chardonnay, 15% non-ouillé Savagnin. Yellow apple and marzipan. Fine layers of flavour, of which oxidation is only one. Silky texture. Fruit and acid in perfect balance. Long. One of those wines that haunted me for days after tasting it. (Buy again? If only I could…)
Côtes du Jura 2008, Grand Élevage, Domaine Rijckaert ($45.00, 6 btls/case, La QV)
Classy nose of lemon, spice, beeswax, dried apple. Rich, dense but fluid. Structured by fruit and acid. Bracing, pure, lush, present. One of the most impressive wines of either tasting. (Buy again? Def.)
MWG April Jura tastings: report (3/6)
Having arrived from Burgundy in the Middle Ages, Chardonnay (also known locally as Melon d’Arbois and Gamay Blanc) is the now most widely planted grape variety in the Jura, occupying nearly half the vineyard. It’s made in a range of styles, from light to rich and from fresh to oxidized. The increasing popularity of Chardonnay-based crémants, which can be successfully made from underripe grapes, has had the effect of improving the quality of the region’s still Chardonnays in recent years.
Arbois 2009, Chardonnay, La Cave de la Reine Jeanne ($20.20, 11575723)
Founded in 1997 by Stéphane and Bénédicte Tissot, this négociant firm is named after the magnificent, gothic-arched cellar in which its wines are stored. The wines have become more accomplished over the years.
Grapefruit nose with clover and beeswax scents. Smooth, balanced and elegant on the palate, the flavours evoking lemon, oxidized apple and a faint nuttiness. Lingers long. (Buy again? Sure.)
L’Étoile 2008, Chardonnay, Nos Vendanges, Rolet Père et Fils ($21.70, 11194605)
Candied yellow fruit and sesame. Ripe fruit on the palate. While you wouldn’t call this bone dry, it’s still fresh, lively and balanced. Clean finish. Not remarkably complex but enjoyable enough. (Buy again? Sure.)
Arbois-Pupillin 2010, Jurassique, Domaine de la Renardière ($22.15, 11472628)
Jean-Michel and Laurence Petit created this estate in 1990. Their wines, especially their whites, are notable for their vibrant fruitiness, somewhat in the mould of Stéphane Tissot’s. Prices are reasonable across the board.
Classic nose of yellow fruit (a bit candied), corn silage and sour cream. Richly textured. Vivacious ripe fruit. The racy acidity is rounded by a touch of residual sugar. Long, browned apple finish with a faint nutty caramel note. (Buy again? Absolutely.)
Côtes du Jura 2006, Chardonnay, Jean Bourdy ($28.00, 6 btls/case, La QV)
Pear, peach, browning apple. Medium-bodied and very dry. Bright acid. Broad and long, with an oxidative note on the finish. Classic and age-worthy. (Buy again? Yes.)
Arbois 2009, Chardonnay, Jacques Puffeney ($28.69, 12 btls/case, Vini-Vins)
Straightforward nose: straw, oats, apple. Clean and flavourful: lemon and light nuts. Medium-bodied with lively acidity. Long, quartzy finish. Becomes more complex, deeper and quite elegant as it breathes. A complete and classy wine. At a recent Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack dinner, this worked beautifully with a wide range of appetizers, including such challenging dishes as a lobster and smoked meat soufflée-omelet. (Buy again? Yes, yes, yes.)
Côtes du Jura 2008, Fleur de Marne, La Bardette, Domaine Labet ($37.50, 6 btls/case, oenopole)
Sweat, oxidizing yellow apple, quartz underlay, gaining a smoked ham note. Rich and mouth-filling. The ripe fruit tends to peach. Long, minerally finish. Multi-dimensional and impressively poised. Would make an interesting ringer in a Meursault tasting. (Buy again? Done!)
Côtes du Jura 2006, Chadonnay, En Chalasse – Nature, Julien Labet ($37.50, 6 btls/case, oenopole)
Organically farmed, native yeasts, unsulphured, unfiltered. Cloudy to the eye. Intriguing nose: roast-pork jus, lemon, oats and light oak. Rich. Minerally/chalky flavours combine with lemon and oats. Coursing acidity. A vibrant wine that lost some of its appeal as it warmed and became more fruit- and alcohol-driven. (Buy again? Maybe.)
MWG April Jura tastings: report (2/6)
Poulsard and Trousseau are the Jura’s traditional red (some would say dark pink) varieties, though Pinot Noir has been gaining ground in recent years. Poulsard wines are traditionally paired with the local charcuterie and smoked meats, Trousseau wines with game.
Arbois 2007, Trousseau, Nos Vendanges, Rolet Père et Fils ($21.95, 11194592)
Founded in the 1940s, Rolet is one of the largest producers of Jura wine, second only to Henri Maire. Makes wines from every appellation except Château Chalon, and the quality is high across the board. One of the trail-blazing producers of mono-varietals, Rolet continues to focus primarily on single-grape-variety wines.
Wild strawberry, cranberry, spice. Light-bodied, dry, acid bright, quite tannic and not very fruity. Minerals there are, though, and a sweet, grainy flavour (barley sugar?). Strawberry-scented finish. Refreshing. (Buy again? Sure.)
Côtes du Jura 2007, Jean Bourdy ($22.70, 11195747)
Jean-François Bourdy refers to this as his PPT (Poulsard, Pinot, Trousseau). The wine is matured three to four years in old oak barrels before bottling. The estate says good vintages can age up to 50 or 60 years; seeing as how they were pouring a still-vibrant wines from the ’50s and ’60s (the SAQ Signature outlets are currently stocking the 1964) at various Jura events a few weeks ago, it’s not an empty claim. Jean-François also suggests carafing the wine for two or three hours before serving, advice our bottle indicated you should follow.
Wild cherry, quartz, lily of the valley, hints of stable and wood shavings. Smooth, fluid, light. Silky attack. The sweet, spicy fruit gives way to fine astringent tannins. Got even better – fuller, richer, deeper – as it breathed. (Buy again? Yes.)
Côtes du Jura 2009, Pinot Noir, Domaine Labet ($26.85, 11555108)
My latest information, which dates from a couple of years ago, is that Domaine Labet is a practionner of lutte raisonnée. Aside from an early spring herbicide and moderate sulphuring post-fermentation, extraneous chemicals are avoided.
Spicy, strawberry, slightly herbaceous/minty and flowery. Richer than the non-Pinots but still a welterweight. Satiny texture. Fresh and sprightly, with fine, supple tannins and very pure fruit. A bit light on the finish. (Buy again? Sure.)
Côtes du Jura 2008, Poulsard, En Billat, Julien Labet ($28.00, oenopole, NLA)
Though still connected with the eponymous family domaine, Julien also makes wines under his own name. As befits his age and rocker reputation, he’s more open to experimenting. He’s been farming organically for a while and is in the process of obtaining official certification.
Complex nose, mainly red berries and forest floor. Light yet richly flavoured. Tart, ripe fruit. Tingly acid and, on the finish, tannins. Lingering woodsy note. Textbook Poulsard, with everything in proportion. (Buy again? Already did.)
Arbois 2009, Poulsard, Jacques Puffeney ($30.64, 12 btls/case, Vini-Vins)
Puffeney is one of the Jura’s legendary winemakers and one of the handful who are equally accomplished with reds and whites. A traditionalist in the best sense of the term, he farms organically and uses only ambient yeasts.
Delicate cranberry/lingonberry nose. Lean and very dry, bordering on austere. Light, fine tannins. One taster perceptively described the combination of flavours and astringency as “fruit tea.” Penetrating finish with a hint of earth and spice. Will benefit from a couple of years in the bottle. (Buy again? Definitely.)
Côtes du Jura 2008, Pinot Noir, En Barberon, André et Mireille Tissot ($32.00, 10269661)
This forward-looking estate is now run by André and Mireille’s son, the affable Stéphane. The house style tends toward modern, vibrant, more fruit-driven wines, albeit ones that sacrifice none of the their jurassien character. Organic since the late 1990s, biodynamic since the mid-naughts.
Ça pinote: red berries, crushed leaves, wet shale, hints of game. Smooth, light tannins grow stronger on finish. Fruity yet dry and astringent. An intriguing combination of lightness and intensity. Not quite as seductive as the 2006 but not without appeal. (Buy again? Sure.)
Côtes du Jura 2009, Poulsard, En Billat, Julien Labet ($34.25, oenopole, NLA)
What a difference a year makes. Smells and tastes riper than the 2008. Nose of sweet cherry and a combination of eucalyptus and barnyard that one taster called “koala fart.” Medium-bodied, smooth and pure, the fruit and minerals in equilibrium. Structured with sweet, round tannins. Turns drier on the long finish. An atypically rich expression of the grape. (Buy again? Sure but the 2008’s more my style.)
Arbois 2009, Trousseau, Jacques Puffeney ($37.31, 12 btls/case, Vini-Vins)
Red fruit with an earthy, gamy edge to it. Again light-bodied but conveying an impression of richness, due largely to the juicy, tart fruit. Quite tannic. The long, tangy finish dissolves into minerals. Hard to imagine a better Trousseau. A couple of weeks before the tasting, this paired beautifully with the tourtière, duck and pork dishes at the Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack. (Buy again? Oh, yes.)
Definitely not the Jura except…
…for the colour, which probably qualifies as rubis or corail.
Verduno Pelaverga 2010, Comm. G.B. Burlotto ($19.35, 11599063)
100% Pelaverga Piccolo. Macerated and fermented in temperature-controlled French oak vats, with pumping over and daily racking and returning. Undergoes malolactic fermentation in stainless steel vats. Matured three months in large Slavonian and French oak casks and two months in stainless steel casks.
Light dusky ruby with brilliant scarlet glints. Lightly fragrant: black pepper, cumin, strawberry/raspberry, fresh sawdust, dried blood. Light-bodied and lightly flavoured, with raspy tannins and coursing acidity. Though there’s some sweet fruit at its core, the wine starts dry and gets drier, almost alarmingly so by the end. The long finish is woody (as distinct from oaky), hotish (14% ABV), sourish and, above all (not to mention, below, behind, in front of and on either side of all), black peppery. After that fades, a faint raspberry aftertaste.
Sweetened a little as it breathed, so probably best carafed an hour or two before serving. Also better lightly chilled to tame the heat. To my surprise, it didn’t pair well with a salume-stuffed calzone.
While the SAQ is to be applauded for expanding their and our horizons and while this is a wine that deserves respect (Burlotto’s been making it since 1800), Fratelli Alessandria’s version is the one to love.
Definitely not the Jura
Chianti Classico 2009, Querciabella ($28.80, 10277986)
Biodyanmically farmed Sangiovese (95%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) from several vineyards. The grapes are destemmed but not crushed, then fermented and macerated in stainless steel vats. Spends 12 months in French oak casks (10% new for the Sangiovese, 80% new for the Cabernet). No animal products are used in the process, making this a vegan-friendly wine.
Smells like Tuscany. Red and black cherry, terra cotta, turned earth, cedar, hints of leather and tobacco. Closed down as it breathed.
Tastes like it smells. Medium-bodied with a fluid texture. The lean, ripe fruit is wrapped in fine but puckery tannins. Acidity brightens everything. Slate and cigar box outlinger the fruit on the long finish.
Savoury and suave if tight and a little one-dimensional at present; a few years (as many as ten) in a cool, dark place will bring suppleness and complexity. Which isn’t to say that those who aren’t allergic to austere, youthfully astringent wines won’t derive pleasure now.
Always one of my favourite Chianti Classicos, this is true to form in 2009. Just about perfect with lamb chops marinated in lemon juice and olive oil then grilled over charcoal and served with sautéed spinach and rosemary roasted potatoes. Must buy more.
Jura detour
The report on the 28 remaining bottles from the MWG’s recent Jurathon is coming. In the meantime, here’s a note on a wine I bought for one of the tastings but didn’t manage to squeeze in.
Arbois-Pupillin 2010, Pinot Noir, Benoit Badoz ($20.60, 11195721)
Vinified in stainless steel, aged in old foudres. Cherry nose with more than a hint of cough drop; some slate and candied violet in the background, too. Light-bodied. Sweet and tart fruit. Tannins, such as they are, appear only on the credible finish. Simple but clean, refreshing and enjoyable. A wine you could open when you’re in the mood for a Beaujolais cru but your companion is a Gamay hater.
This went well with the moistest rabbit in mustard sauce I know:
Lapin à la cauchoise
- In a Dutch oven or sauté pan, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Brown a rabbit cut into 6 to 8 pieces. (Hot temperatures make for dry, stringy rabbit. Adjust the heat accordingly.) After browning, remove the meat and discard all the cooking fat.
- Return the pan to the burner, turn the heat to low and add 3 tablespoons crème fraîche, scraping the bottom of the pan to free the tasty brown bits. Return the meat to the pan, turning the pieces 2 or 3 times to coat them with cream. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover the pan and simmer very gently for 10 minutes.
- When the 10 minutes are up, add 1 tablespoon crème fraîche to the pan and turn the meat. Cover and continue cooking for another 10 minutes. Add 1 more tablespoon of crème, turn the meat and simmer for 10 minutes more. Add 1 last tablespoon of crème and simmer for 5 minutes.
- Whisk together 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 3/4 cup dry white wine and 2 large, finely chopped shallots. Pour the mixture into the pan. Turn the meat again, then cover and simmer gently for 15 or 20 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately with sautéed or French fried potatoes.
H/t to wapiti for “Jurathon.”
Brett happens 