Archive for the ‘Tasting notes’ Category
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (5/7)
Burgenland 2012, Blaufränkisch, Heideboden, Weingut Pittnauer ($24.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Located near the village of Gols, on the northeastern shore of the Neusiedlersee not far from the Hungarian border, the estate is renowned for its St. Laurents and Pinot Noirs. This 100% Blaufränkisch come from biodynamically and organically farmed quarter-century old vines grown in the Heideboden vineyard. Manually harvested. Fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks at 27°C. Matured 12 months in neutral barrels. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Dark berries, flowers, spice and graphite on the nose. Fresh and lively in the mouth. Supple tannins provide just enough grit while streaming acidity carries the juicy, very dry fruit (mainly cherry) into a clean, minerally finish. Modern in its elegance but classic in its down-to-earthiness. Food-friendly to the max. (Buy again? Sure.)
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (4/7)
Jurançon sec 2011, La Virada, Camin Larredya ($43.00, private import, 6 bottles/case)
A blend of equal parts of organically farmed Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng and Courbu Blanc grown in the La Virada vineyard. The grapes are manually harvested and whole cluster pressed. The must is transferred to barrels and fermented with indigenous yeasts. Matured on the fine lees in foudres for 12 months. 14% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Subdued, languorous nose of acacia blossom, candied white and yellow fruit, citrus oil and minerals. Weighty and dense, voluminous and structured. Despite the oily texture, rich extract and faint touch of rounding residual sugar, tense with acidity. Subtle white and yellow fruit and blossoms intertwine with threads of chalky minerals. Finishes long, soft and clean. An excellent wine with years of life ahead of it. (Buy again? Yes.)
A few bottles of the estate’s 2011 La Part Davant remain at the SAQ ($26.45, 12233434). To go by the La Virada, it’s worth checking out.
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (3/7)
Anjou Blanc 2012, Domaine Thibaud Boudignon ($40.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Hailing from Bordeaux, young (30-something?) Thibaud Boudignon is head of operations at Château Soucherie. On the side, he makes wine under his own name from two hectares of vineyards in Anjou and Savennières. This 100% organically farmed Chenin Blanc comes from vines averaging a third of a century old and grown in shallow soils on grey schist, ryholite and sand. The grapes are manually harvested and gently pressed. The must is fermented with indigenous yeasts in French and Austrian oak barrels of various volumes. Does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Matured eight to 12 months in one and two-year-old Burgundian 225-litre barrels and new 500-litre barrels. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Dry. Intense, breath-holdingly balanced. The ripe-sweet fruit – pear and lemon – is somehow both dense and ethereal. Floral, honey and quinine overtones abound but the oak calls no attention to itself. The acidity is racy, the minerality dazzling. The saline finish goes on and on. There are wines whose focus and energy are such they seem powered from within. This is one of them. The last word I wrote (and a word I rarely use): incredible. (Buy again? Absolutely.)
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (2/7)
Vin de France 2012, PUR Blanc, Château Revelette ($29.65, private import, 6 bottles/case)
The estate has been certified organic for two decades now. The new PUR line – PUR stands for produit uniquement de raisin – consists of three wines: a red, a rosé and this white, which is mostly Ugni Blanc, the balance possibly being Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are manually harvested. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled concrete tanks with indigenous yeasts, malolactic fermentation and maturation on the gross lees in concrete tanks with no racking. Bottled unfiltered and unfined, with no added sulphur. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Restrained nose of browning yellow apple, chalk, flint, a hint of anise. In the mouth, the wine’s slightly oily texture only makes the dazzling minerality that much more surprising. Citrus and yellow fruit complement but discreetly. Acidity sheds light. A saline tang marks the long finish. Crystalline, fresh and indeed pure, this would make a fine aperitif with thyme-roasted almonds and tapenande hors d’oeuvres. Raw bars should be ordering cases. (Buy again? [Insert high price gripe here] but definitely.)
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (1/7)
We wended our way to the Groupe Rézin stand, where Steve Beauséjour was, as ever, an enthusiastic host. Despite its being a root day – not a fruit day – on the biodynamic calendar, the wines were showing well, he said. And indeed they were.
Grüner Veltliner 2012, Rosensteig, Kremstal, Weingut Geyerhof ($28.85, private import, 12 bottles/case)
Currently comprising 19 hectares of vines, 70% of them Grüner Veltliner, the estate has been in the Maier family’s hands since the 16th century and certified organic since 1988. This 100% Grüner Veltliner comes from vineyards in Hollenberg, located on the south side of the Danube, east of Krems. The grapes are manually harvested in early October and whole-cluster pressed. After clarification by settling, the must is fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured on the lees for several months and filtered and bottled in mid-March. Sees only stainless steel until bottling. 12.5% ABV. Screwcapped. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Textbook GV nose: lime, green melon, white minerals, whiffs of grass, mint and white pepper. Nimble, fleet and fluid in the mouth yet also very present. Clean and tangy fruit, crystalline minerals and crisp acidity dance across the palate and fade into a saline, peppery finish. So easy to down. A summer sipper par excellence, this would also go famously with salads, vegetable dishes and mildly spiced, not-sweet, white-proteined Asian food. (Buy again? A bit pricey for an everyday wine – a recurring theme at this show – but yes.)
Salon VIP 2014: Weingut Wieninger
Abutting Vienna (the city centre is clearly visible from some of the vineyards), Weingut Wieninger comprises 45 hectares on both sides of the Danube. On the outskirts of the city proper, between the houses and the forest (the Vienna Woods of story and song), are the Nussberg (also spelled Nußberg) vineyards, southerly exposed and gently sloping, where the soil consists of weathered, shell-rich limestone (25 to 65%), loam, clay and sand over solid limestone and where the breezes and temperature modifying effects of the river create near-ideal growing conditions. On the other bank are the Bisamberg vineyards, where the soil is light sandy loess over solid limestone.
The affable Fritz Wieninger was at the Vinealis stand, pouring five of his currently available wines. As a group they seemed more immediately accessible and food-friendly than some of their compatriots, less stern and austere and less demanding of cellar time – well-made wines you’d be happy to drink while sitting in the estate’s wine tavern (Heuriger) or digging into dinner at home.
Chardonnay Classic 2013, Weingut Wieninger ($26.65, private import, 12 bottles/case)
100% Chardonnay from 15- to 30-year-old biodynamically farmed vines, nearly all of which are in the Bisamberg vineyards. Manually harvested and sorted. Gently destemmed. Macerated for about three hours, then pressed pneumatically. The must was transferred to stainless steel tanks (85%) and large neutral oak barrels (15%) for alcoholic fermentation. Malolactic fermentation was prevented in the tanks and allowed in the barrels; occasional lees-stirring took place in the tanks and barrels. After five months, the wines were blended and bottled. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Vinealis.
Lemon with just a hint of yellow fruit. On the nose and in the mouth shows a steely, Riesling-like quality. Clean, crisp, minerally and dry. The farthest thing from blowsy, a fresh and tonic take on Chardonnay. (Buy again? At $22, it’d be killer. At $26.65, sure.)
Riesling 2013, Wiener Berge, Weingut Wieninger ($26.35, private import, 12 bottles/case)
100% Riesling from several converting-to-biodynamic Bisamberg vineyards (hail wiped out the usual Nussberg crop). Manually harvested. Manually and machine sorted. A short maceration was followed by pressing. The must was transferred to stainless steel tanks for fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Matured on the lees for a few months, then blended and bottled. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Vinealis.
Clean and fresh. Bracing acidity lights up the lemon-lime and minerals. If you look for it, you can find a hint of residual sugar but the alcohol is nowhere apparent. Finishes dry and stony. Very drinkable. (Buy again? At $22, it’d be killer. At $26.35, sure.)
Grüner Veltliner 2013, Wiener Berge, Weingut Wieninger ($26.35, private import, 12 bottles/case)
100% Grüner Veltliner from biodynamically farmed vines, most of which are in the Bisamberg vineyards (a small proportion are in the Nussberg vineyards). Manually harvested. Mechanically sorted. A short maceration was followed by pressing. The must was clarified and transferred to stainless steel tanks for fermentation at low temperatures. Matured on the lees for a few months, then blended and bottled. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Vinealis.
Grass, white pepper, quartz and a hint of lime. Shows some citrus on the palate but is more about minerals and crisp acidity. Ends clean and fresh. A classic, easy-drinking GV. (Buy again? Sure, tho’ another four bucks will get you the all singing, all dancing Nussberg.)
Grüner Veltliner 2013, Nussberg, Weingut Wieninger ($30.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
100% Grüner Veltliner from vines in the Nussberg vineyards. Manually harvested and sorted. The grapes were lightly crushed, left to macerate on the skins a few hours and then pressed. The must was transferred to stainless steel tanks for fermentation at low temperatures. Matured on the lees for a month or two longer than the Wiener Berge cuvée, then blended and bottled. 14% ABV. Quebec agent: Vinealis.
Everything found in the Wiener Berge GV and then some. Still primary but already complex and dimensional. Powerful and intense but, unlike some high-end GVs, remarkably balanced and alluring in its youth. A wine it’d be fun to buy a case of and track the evolution over the next six years. (Buy again? Yes.)
Gemischter Satz 2012, Nussberg, Alte Reben, Weingut Wieninger ($44.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Similar to what Deitz does in Alsace, this is a field blend of nine grape varieties – Weissburgunder, Neuburger, Welschriesling, Grüner Veltliner, Sylvaner, Zierfandler, Rotgipfler, Traminer and Riesling – from biodynamically farmed 50-year-old vines co-planted in Nussberg’s Ulm vineyard. Manually harvested and sorted. After three hours’ maceration, the grapes were pneumatically pressed. The must was transferred to stainless steel tanks for low-temperature fermentation and maturation on the fine lees. Bottled nearly one year after harvest. 14.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Vinealis.
Fragrant, complex nose: wisps of medicinal honey, flowers, citrus, yellow fruit and a subtle minerality. In the mouth, it’s hefty (but not heavy), layered, broad and dry. A stream of acidity keeps everything vibrant. A hint of bitterness colours the long finish. Not the dog’s breakfast I was fearing. On the contrary, an appealing, complex wine with a certain precision and tension. (Buy again? Yes.)
Next stop: Rézin.
Salon VIP 2014: Clos Sénéchal
We ended our visit at the oenopole stand with one of the top wines of a favourite Loire producer.
Bourgueil 2011, Clos Sénéchal, Catherine & Pierre Breton ($34.00, private import, 12 bottles/case)
100% Cabernet Franc from organically farmed vines between 30 and 45 years old. The grapes are manually harvested and, after destemming, fermented with indigenous yeasts for three weeks. Matured one to two years in large foudres. Unfiltered. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Closed but beautiful nose that’s already giving up some mineral and floral overtones. Medium-bodied. Tightly wound but impeccably balanced, silky textured and clearly full of potential. Red fruit, green leaves, slate and spice, fine structure (medium tannins, sleek acidity), hinted-at depth and a long clean finish. Delicious and, as the French say, digeste. Approachable now but will probably be singing in three or four years. (Buy again? Yes.)
Next stop: Vinealis.
Salon VIP 2014: Xinomavro Nature
Still at the oenopole booth, we next tasted one of the standouts at this year’s salon.
Naoussa 2013, Xinomavro Nature, Thymiopoulos Vineyards ($62.75/1500 ml, private import, 6 bottles/case)
100% biodynamically farmed Xinomavro. The manually harvested grapes are destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts and macerated 18 days in stainless steel tanks and large barrels. Maturation lasts six months and takes place in 500- to 600-litre barrels. Bottled unfiltered, unfined and with no added sulphur. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
An intriguing mix of fresh and stewed red fruit, oyster bed and distant garrigue. Medium-bodied but mouth-filling, juicy but dry. The tart acidity, lithe tannins and dusty minerals work like a foil for the vibrant, glowing fruit. There’s a real energy here that just lights up your palate. Not remarkably long but lip-smacking while it lasts. The thought of drinking this with grilled stuff – meat, sausages and vegetables – had our mouths watering. (Buy again? Yes, yes, yes.)
Thymiopoulos’s Jeunes vignes de xinomavro bottling has become a stealth hit at the SAQ and the Terre et Ciel bottling has knocked the socks off more than one drinker, including critics. This Xinomavro Nature confirms that he’s redefining notions of what the grape can achieve.
Unfortunately, the 750 ml bottles are sold out and only a few magnums remain. Here’s hoping for a second shipment!
Salon VIP 2014: Domaine du Possible
A friend and I spent yesterday afternoon at the Salon des vins d’importation privée, the private import expo run by RASPIPAV. Over the next few days, I’ll be posting sketchy notes on some of the highlights. Our first stop was at the oenopole booth, specifically to taste the four newly arrived wines from the wryly named Domaine du Possible, which can be rendered in English several ways, including the realm of possibility.
Forty-something Loïc Roure, the owner-winemaker, set up shop in the Côtes du Roussillon in 2003 and has since assembled 10.5 hectares of parcels in Latour-de-France, Lansac and Caudiès-de-Fenouillèdes. The wines are made in Lansac’s old winegrowers’ cooperative, which facilities Roure shares with Édouard Laffitte of Domaine Le Bout du Monde.
Roure farms organically and is a non-interventionist in the cellar. The grapes are picked by hand, brought to the winery and cooled, usually overnight. The reds are typically made using semi or full carbonic maceration. All fermentations are spontaneous, using only indigenous yeasts. Punch-downs are rare and pump-overs non-existent while racking is occasional. That plus reasonable extraction and low alcohol levels, little or no sulphur, no filtering or fining, a prizing of acidity and an avoidance of strong tannins equal fresh and juicy wines that are remarkably drinkable.
Roure was supposed to visit the city for the salon but went AWOL. Fortunately, four of his seven wines didn’t.
Côtes du Roussillon 2012, Cours Toujours, Domaine du Possible ($32.00, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Mostly Macabeu with a little Grenache Gris. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Wafting nose of star fruit, quince, quartz, straw and ash. More appley in the mouth. Ripe-sweet on the attack but drying with a long, sourish, saline finish. A lovely mix of crystalline minerality and fruit. (Buy again? Def.)
Côtes du Roussillon 2013, Charivari, Domaine du Possible ($30.50/750 ml, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Côtes du Roussillon 2013, Charivari, Domaine du Possible ($63.75/1500 ml, private import, 3 bottles/case)
100% Carignan from vines between 35 and 110 years old. Undergoes carbonic maceration. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
The nose is a basket of red fruit along with some reductive aromas (the bottle had just been opened). A smooth and juicy mouthful of sweet and sour fruit, supple tannins and tangy acidity. So easy to drink. (Buy again? Yes.)
Côtes du Roussillon 2013, Tout bu or not tout bu, Domaine du Possible ($28.70, private import, 6 bottles/case)
About three-quarters Grenache and one-quarter Mourvèdre. Made from purchased organically farmed grapes. Some of the grapes are placed in vats and trod by foot. Whole bunches are then added and the vats are closed, resulting in a kind of semi-carbonic maceration. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Deeper, darker nose of plum and slate. Less exuberantly fruity in the mouth. Mild tannins, glowing acidity, underpinning dark minerals. (Buy again? Yes.)
Côtes du Roussillon 2013, C’est pas la mer à boire, Domaine du Possible ($37.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Grenache (c. 75%), Carignan (c. 20%) and Syrah (c. 5%). Some of the grapes are placed in vats and trod by foot. Whole bunches are then added and the vats are closed, resulting in a kind of semi-carbonic maceration. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Faintly bretty nose that segued into roasted cherries and plum and graphite. A fluent, smile-inducing blend of pure, bright fruit and crunchy minerals. Irresistible. (Buy again? The price is steep for a vin plaisir – damn you, high euro – but yes.)
Authentic, tonic and delicious
Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine 2011, Clisson, Ollivier Père et Fils ($20.25, 12259992)
Muscadets now have recognized crus communaux, or village crus, one of which is Clisson. 100% Melon de Bougogne. Matured on the lees for 24 months in stainless steel tanks. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: A.O.C. & Cie – Châteaux et Domaines.
The kind of nose that makes a Muscadet lover’s mouth watering: lemon, green apple peel, veins of chalk and flint, hints of straw, hay, honey and sea spray. In the mouth, the wine has an oily verging on weighty texture. It’s fruity but dry. There are minerals (but not as many as the nose lead you to expect), nipping acidity and a touch of bitterness on the rainwatery finish. Authentic, tonic and delicious, a valiant effort in a so-so vintage and one of the few characterful Muscadets sold at the SAQ. Here’s hoping it becomes a regular. About perfect with moules marinières (recipe follows) and excellent with La Sauvagine cheese. An SAQ wine advisor reports that the tail end of a sampled and simply restoppered bottle was even more impressive – broader, deeper and longer – the next day. (Buy again? Yes.)
Despite claims to the contrary, it appears Ollivier Père is not Marc Ollivier, co-owner of one of top two or three estates in Muscadet, Domaine de la Pépière. Confusingly, Web searches turn up photos of earlier vintages of a Clisson from Pépière with an identical label. Even more confusingly, Pépière is represented in Quebec by Vinealis, whereas this wine is brought in by AOC. Vinealis’s head honcho, André Papineau, explains all in the comments below.
Brett happens 