Posts Tagged ‘Provence’
Pink bliss
Two rosés that the Mo’ Wine Group used to buy as private imports are hitting the SAQ’s shelves for the first time this spring. This is the first; the second, the Alzipratu rosé, should be released soon.
Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2014, Les Béatines, Domaine Les Béates ($20.45, 11232261)
The estate’s name translates as “the blissfully happy.” This is made from organically farmed Grenache Noir (75%) and Syrah (25%). The grapes are manually harvested and immediately destemmed and pressed. The must is fermented with indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled (17°C) tanks. Matured on the fine lees in stainless steel tanks for four months. Sulphur use is kept to a minimum. Reducing sugar: 1.4 g/l. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV.
Pale gauzy pink. Soft, wafting nose: minerals and red berries with a whiff of garrigue. In the mouth, dry as a bone, a quartzy mineral complex infused with delicate fruit. Ethereal on the attack, it gains some glyceriney weight as it moves across the palate. Sleek acidity keeps things fresh and an appetizing saline thread runs through the clean finish. (Buy again? Yes.)
At one end of the rosé spectrum are exuberantly fruity, dark pink wines that feel and taste like reds without the structure. At the other end are rosés that seem more like minerally whites with a dash of red fruit. This falls squarely in the latter camp: light enough to serve as a nuanced aperitif; substantial enough to accompany Provençal dishes like salade nicoise and pissaladière.
In the pink
Two from the first wave of spring rosés to hit the SAQ’s shelves.
Alsace 2014, Pinot Noir Rosé, Alsace Willm ($17.90, 12521401)
Another wine not listed on the producer’s website and with no technical information that I’ve been able to find. 100% Pinot Noir. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Sylvestre Vins & Spiritueux.
Pretty nose of red berries. Delicate in the mouth, fruity but not sweet (or bone-dry for that matter). Lightly brightly acidic. Not much substance or length but enjoyable for its freshness, faint juiciness and ethereal ephemerality. A patio wine par excellence. (Buy again? On a hot summer’s day, sure.)
Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2014, Château Vignelaure ($24.70, 12374149)
Grenache (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Syrah (30%) from vines averaging 25 years old. Manually harvested. Saignée method after two hours’ maceration for the Grenache; direct pressing for the Cab and Syrah. The must is chilled to 10°C and allowed to settle for 48 hours. Fermented at low temperature (17°C) and matured in stainless steel tanks except for 7% of the Cab, which is aged in a 400-litre new oak barrel. Maturation on the lees with regular stirrings lasts three months. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: LBV International.
Savoury nose: minerals and garrigue up front, fruit in the background. More substantial than the Willm but also more akin to a white wine. Dry and balanced, the extract buoyed by fine acidity. Shimmering peach and pink grapefruit are on equal footing with white minerals, while a light salinity threads through the long finish. Delicious is on its own but the real vocation of this vin gastronomique is to accompany grilled seafood or bouillabaisse. Will probably rank among the top half-dozen rosés to be found at the SAQ this spring and summer. (Buy again? Yes.)
Beau Bandol
Bandol 2011, La Bastide Blanche ($29.25, 10887451)
About three-quarters Mourvèdre and one-quarter Grenache with micro-dollops of Cinsault and Syrah from organically farmed vines averaging 30 years of age; the estate was certified Ecocert in 2012 and is gradually adopting biodynamic practices. Temperature-controlled maceration and fermentation with indigenous yeasts, with daily punch-downs and pump-overs, lasts about three weeks. After devatting, the wine is matured in oak foudres and demi-muids for 18 to 24 months. About 55,000 bottles were made. 14.7% ABV. Quebec agent: Trialto.
Dark fruit (blackberry, plum), leather, hints of truffle, licorice and Mediterranean scrub. Full-bodied but fluid. Very dry. The clean, ripe fruit is a big part of the attraction on opening but less vibrant and beginning to oxidize when the tail end is revisited a day later. The firm but lithe tannins and brightening acidity are well integrated. A dark, minerally undercurrent adds mystery. The finish is long and, on the second day, marked by an alcoholic flare. In earlier vintages this has always been an authentic, accessible, drinkable and fairly priced Bandol and the 2011 is no exception. A fine candidate for short- to medium-term cellaring, though nobody will complain if you open a bottle now to drink with grilled meat. (Buy again? Yes.)
MWG January 8th tasting: A pair of Cab-based blends from Provence
IGP Principauté d’Orange 2012, Daumen ($17.90, 12244547)
For background on the estate, see here. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Grenache (30%), Merlot (15%), Syrah (15%) and Carignan, Cinsault and Mourvèdre (5%) from organically and biodynamically farmed vines in Daumen’s own vineyards in the Méreuilles and Clavin lieux-dits. The Syrah vines are 20 years old, the others 40 to 60 years old. Manually harvested. Destemmed. Fermented with indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled vats. Matured about 12 months, half in lined concrete vats and half in 50-hectolitre oak foudres. Bottled unfiltered, unfined and with only a little added sulphur. 14% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Expressive nose: red and black fruit and jam, incense, spice chest and hints of green pepper and violet. Full-bodied but fresh and fluid. The ripe fruit and dark minerals are structured by glowing acidity and firm, round tannins that come to the fore on the long, warm, black pepper-scented finish. Pure, balanced, even elegant. Outstanding QPR. (Buy again? Done!)
VDP du Var 2010, Les Auréliens, Domaine de Triennes ($20.60, 00892521)
Founded in 1989, the estate is a joint project of Jacques Seysses (Domaine Dujac), Aubert de Villaine (Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) and a Paris-based friend. Les Auréliens red is a 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from organically farmed vines. Vinified on a lot-by-lot basis. Fermentation and maceration last 12 to 25 days for most lots and up to 35 days for exceptional lots, with the Cab receiving daily pump-overs and the Syrah getting daily punch-downs. Matured 12 months in used oak barrels sourced from Domaine Dujac. Lightly fined but unfiltered. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Séguin & Robillard.
Plum, raspberry and cassis with whiffs of herbes de Provence, leather and aged red meat. An appealingly round middleweight in the mouth, less dense and structured than the Daumen but far from flaccid. The tannins are supple, the acidity lambent. Transitions from ripe-sweet and fruity to dry and savoury on the long finish. Very enjoyable. (Buy again? Yes.)
(Flight: 5/8)
MWG November 24th tasting: Bandol bliss-out
Bandol 2006, Domaine du Gros’Noré ($55.00, 11553938)
A blend of Mourvèdre (75%), Grenache (10%), Cinsaut (10%) and Carignan (5%) from vines averaging 30 years old. Partially destemmed.Traditional vinification with 15 days’ maceration and fermentation (indigenous yeasts). Matured 18 months in old oak foudres. Unfiltered, unfined. 15% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Effusive nose of plum, dark earth, hints of tobacco and herbs. Youthful but resolving. The dark heart of plush, ripe fruit and inky minerals is framed by round tannins and soft acidity. Olives and garrigue perfume the long finish, the alcohol unapparent. Surprisingly elegant for a wine of its size and inherent earthiness. (Buy again? Gladly.)
Bandol 2007, Domaine Tempier (c. $50 as a private import in 2009)
The so-called cuvée classique. Typically 75% Mourvèdre, 14% Grenache, 9% Cinsault and 2% Carignan from vines averaging around 40 years old. Manually harvested. The destemmed grapes are macerated and fermented (with indigenous yeasts) for two to three weeks in stainless steel tanks. The must is pressed and the wine is transferred to oak foudres for malolactic fermentation and 18 to 20 months’ maturation. Unfiltered and unfined. 14.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Initial bottle funk blows off, leaving a rich, evolved nose of plum, spice, graphite, earth, composted leaf, old wood and cigar box. Full-bodied despite the Gros’Noré wines making it seem more like medium. Smooth on the surface, the fruit ripe and satiny, yet resilient tannins provide some grit while acidity brightens and slate darkens. Long. A savoury, earthy, somehow elegant wine that tastes like it’s approaching its plateau of maturity, though the stuffing, structure and balance point to another decade of life. (Buy again? Yes.)
Bandol 2010, Cuvée Antoinette, Domaine du Gros’Noré ($74.00, 12207033)
Only a few hundred bottles of this cuvée named after the winemaker’s mother are made each year. Mourvèdre (95%), Grenache (3%) and Cinsault (2%). Not destemmed. 15% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Better after 30 minutes in the glass. Plum skin, grassy meadow, humus, Asian spice, game.
On the palate, it’s rich, dry, full-bodied, broad and deep – primary and powerful but not forbidding. The sweet core of ripe fruit is wrapped in savouriness and finely if firmly structured by velvety tannins and sustained acidity. The endless, dark, minerally finish has an astringent rasp. Pure and complete. Delicious now, amazing in 2020. (Buy again? Would love to.)
(Flight: 5/5)
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (2/7)
Vin de France 2012, PUR Blanc, Château Revelette ($29.65, private import, 6 bottles/case)
The estate has been certified organic for two decades now. The new PUR line – PUR stands for produit uniquement de raisin – consists of three wines: a red, a rosé and this white, which is mostly Ugni Blanc, the balance possibly being Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are manually harvested. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled concrete tanks with indigenous yeasts, malolactic fermentation and maturation on the gross lees in concrete tanks with no racking. Bottled unfiltered and unfined, with no added sulphur. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Restrained nose of browning yellow apple, chalk, flint, a hint of anise. In the mouth, the wine’s slightly oily texture only makes the dazzling minerality that much more surprising. Citrus and yellow fruit complement but discreetly. Acidity sheds light. A saline tang marks the long finish. Crystalline, fresh and indeed pure, this would make a fine aperitif with thyme-roasted almonds and tapenande hors d’oeuvres. Raw bars should be ordering cases. (Buy again? [Insert high price gripe here] but definitely.)
Aïoli monsters, unite!
While the weather forecast may not be particularly Provençal, you can be sure the food, wines and atmosphere will be when the Foodlab holds its annual aïoli monstre tomorrow. The garlic-rich menu features vegetables from Birri and rosés from oenopole stalwarts Gros’Noré, Breton and Thymiopoulos. Be there or be square!
Aïoli monstre par oenopole
Thursday, August 14, 2014, from 5 p.m. on
SAT Foodlab
1201 St. Lawrence Boulevard, 3rd floor
MWG May 15th tasting (2/6): A trio of Bandol rosés
The rosé situation at the SAQ has vastly improved in recent years. For the longest time, you couldn’t find a single Bandol rosé at the monopoly. Currently it stocks six. We tasted three of the most interesting.
Bandol rosé 2012, Château de Pibarnon ($31.50, 10275091)
Mourvèdre (85%) and Cinsault (35%). Manually harvested. Part of the Mourvèdre is bled from the red wine vats and part is directly pressed. All the Cinsault is directly pressed. The juices are blended before fermentation, which is long (25 to 30 days) and takes place in temperature-controlled (22°C) stainless steel tanks. Matured in stainless steel tanks for six months. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Réserve & Sélection.
Complex and evolving nose: nectarine and garrigue, hints of fennel seed, background earth. Rich bordering on fleshy but also balanced and well delineated. Crunchy minerals and acidity structure the ripe if very dry fruit, while bitter and spicy notes add savour. A faint, almost tannic astringency marks the long finish. Impressive. Needs a year or two to come together but there’s absolutely no doubt it will. (Buy again? Definitely.)
Bandol rosé 2013, Domaine du Gros’Noré ($30.75, 11416837)
Mourvèdre (50%), Cinsault (35%) and Grenache (15%) from vines averaging 30 years old. The grapes are directly pressed, with 40% given a light maceration. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Lovely if subdued nose of dusty strawberry, chalky minerals and raw sugar. Clean, refreshing and balanced, the fruit (red berries, cherry and finally apricot) and minerals lifted by acidity and coloured by herbes de Provence and faint spice. Long finish. This elegant wine is accessible now but may be even better in 12 months. (Buy again? Yes.)
Bandol rosé 2012, Domaine de Souviou ($24.50, 12200798)
Mourvèdre (40%), Cinsault (35%) and Grenache (25%). The grapes are manually harvested and sorted, then chilled to 14°C, lightly crushed and directly pressed. After cold settling, the juice is fermented in temperature-controlled (18°C) stainless steel tanks for 15 days. Malolactic fermentation is blocked and the wine is matured in staineless steel tanks. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Robert Peides.
By far the palest of the three and not just in colour. Reticent nose, mainly minerals with a hint of peach. The fruit (stone fruit, grapefruit) is light, the minerals rainwatery and the finish clean, with a lingering savoury tingle that may be due to acidity as much as carbon dioxide. Actually, quite white wine-like – not that there’s anything wrong with that. (Buy again? Sure.)
Gavoty’s 2009 Clarendon rouge
Côtes de Provence 2009, Cuvée Clarendon, Domaine Gavoty ($24.75, 10783918)
The estate is best known for its rosés and increasingly its whites. Clarendon is its flagship line and the red is made only in good vintages. A blend of Syrah (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%). Macerated and fermented in temperature-controlled tanks (28°C) for 20 days. Matured in tanks for 30 months. 14% ABV.
Closed on opening, this blossomed after being carafed several hours. Appealing nose that combines sweet (red and black fruit, spice) and savoury (clay, garrigue, game, tapenade) in equal measure. A velvety middleweight in the mouth. Well but not rigidly structured, with round, resolving tannins and fresh acidity. The ripe fruit is tethered by minerals and earth, while olives, herbs and spice perfume the long finish. Very drinkable now yet structured and balanced enough to be ageable too. Suave but not flashy, a self-assured wine that gets everything right and sees no need to flaunt it. (Buy again? Yep.)
Milan’s 2003 Les Baux-de-Provence
Les Baux-de-Provence 2003, Domaine Milan, Domaine Henri Milan ($25.80, 12229371)
This cuvée, with a slightly different mix of grape varieties, was the AOC Coteaux d’Aix Les Baux de Provence “La Tuilière Vieille” from 1986 to 1998 and has been the Vin de table de France “Le Vallon” since 2007. Organically farmed Grenache (80%), Syrah (10%), Cinsault (5%) and Mourvèdre (5%). Manually harvested. The grapes are vinified together. Whole cluster fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Matured around 12 months in old barrels. 13% ABV.
Evolved to the eye: medium maroon with as much brown as red at the rim. Complex nose of Chinese dried plums, candied raspberries, sandalwood, dried tobacco leaf and faint barley sugar. Medium-bodied and smooth-surfaced, with soft, resolved tannins and coursing acidity. The clean, silky fruit fades to reveal slate, old wood and spice that last through the faintly astringent finish. On opening the bottle, I wondered whether the wine was over the hill but it freshened, sweetened and opened up after an hour. Not a knockout but definitely enjoyable. At or maybe a little past its peak: drink in the next year and carafe an hour ahead of time, putting the carafe in the fridge for the last 20 minutes. Note too that a glass served from a bottle that had been opened, sampled, recorked and left standing for 24 hours was more brown than red and tasted oxidized, desiccated and fruitless. (Buy again? A highly drinkable, decade-old wine offered at a very fair price? Sure.)
A passable match for moussaka, though the tomato put a damper on the wine’s fruit. A better pairing would be well-done red meat – a beef daube made with white wine, say – or pork or rabbit grilled with herbes de Provence.
Addendum: A knowledgeable reader reports “I tried the wine twice and found it quite over the hill. Too bad. I was hoping for better!” Yet Le Journal de Montréal‘s Patrick Désy is positive, awarding the wine three out of five stars, remarking on its freshness and saying comparisons with Châteauneuf-du-Pape are not beyond the pale. The wine advisors at the SAQ store that served me the above-mentioned dead glass claimed the wine had been “magnifique” the day before. A reminder, then, that old wines, especially ones from difficult vintages (2003 was infernal across Europe), are fragile things and that bottle variation in this particular shipment may be high.
Brett happens 