Posts Tagged ‘Rézin’
Thinking globally, drinking locally
The MWG’s early March tasting was led by the irrepressible Steve Beauséjour, who daylights as a sales rep of Rézin. To say he outdid himself would be an understatement.
We got things rolling with a stupendous dry white served double-blind from a labelless bottle.
The bouquet is a kaleidoscope of seashells, citrus, oats, limestone, bread, a hint of nuts and more. On the palate, it’s a mouth-watering mix of saline minerals, restrained fruit and trenchant acidity, dazzlingly pure and so dry, especially on the long finish. As bracing and engaging a white as I’ve encountered in a coon’s age.
I happened to be sitting next to two French expats, both of them Loire lovers, and all three of us had the same initial reaction: a faintly oxidized Chenin Blanc from a top Loire producer. As we spent more time with the wine and listened to Steve, doubts began to creep in. “Un chablis peut-être,” hazarded one of the français. Other tasters guessed the Jura, Italy, Austria and South Africa. All were shot down.
“Maybe it’s from Laval,” quipped a taster, throwing up his hands. (Île Jésus’s improbable Château Taillefer-Lafon has become something of a meme for the group.)
“You’re getting warm,” said Steve to the astonishment of everyone.
The wine? A special bottling of Québec 2014, Chardonnay, Les Rosiers, Les Pervenches, the regular bottling of which retailed for $25 during the few weeks it was available. This 100% Chardonnay is made from fruit from organically and biodynamically farmed vines grown near Farnham. The grapes are manually harvested and sorted, vinified naturally (indigenous yeasts, no additives, minimal intervention) and matured in casks. The 24 bottles of this special bottling were filled with wine drawn directly from the cask after one year’s maturation. In contrast to the regular cuvée, the wine is unfined, unfiltered and unsulphured.
If I’ve tasted a better Canadian Chardonnay, I don’t recall it. Truly world-class.
MWG March 12th tasting: flight 1 of 7
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (7/7)
Monferrato Dolcetto 2010, Bricco della Serra, Bera Vittorio e figli ($36.15, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Known primarily for its Moscato d’Asti, the estate, which has been farming organically since 1964, also makes several still wines. The 100% Dolcetto comes from decade-old vines grown in a one-hectare vineyard. Manually harvested. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts lasts 25 days, maturation on the lees 24 months; both take place in 50-hectolitre lined concrete tanks. No added anything, including, according to Steve, sulphur. Unfiltered and unfined. 13.0% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Fragrant nose of dried rose, mulberry, black cherry, sandalwood and peppery spice. Vibrant and dynamic from the first sip. The ripe fruit and raspy tannins give the wine a velvety texture while the uncommonly bright acidity keeps it fresh and dark minerals add an appealing earthiness. The finish is mouth-filling and sustained. A wine of remarkable breadth and depth, beyond what one normally associates with this grape. Indeed, you could almost fault it for being atypical – too poised, too dimensional, too accomplished for a Dolcetto. Truly one of the standouts of the event. (Buy again? I did, twice, though at the time I thought the price was $32, already more than any other Dolcetto sold at the SAQ. But even at $36 and change, I don’t regret the purchase – I’ve not been this excited about a Dolcetto since forever.)
Dolcetto is usually thought of as the quintessential weeknight pasta and pizza wine. This, however, deserves finer fare. If you’re going the pasta route, think a sauce built around long-braised lamb. Or follow Steve Beauséjour’s suggestion of roasted fowl, which put me in mind of Patricia Well’s guinea hen stuffed with olives, bacon, shallots and thyme (recipe with an accompanying purée of my own invention after the jump).
And, by the way, though our afternoon at the salon ended with visits to the La QV/Insolite and Ward & associés stands, I appear to have misplaced my tasting notes. Not to worry about the former, however, as the upcoming notes on last week’s MWG tasting will show.
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (6/7)
Yarra Valley 2013, Pépé le Pinot, Jamsheed Wines ($39.30, private import, 6 bottles/case)
The winery has two lines: the eponymous premium line and the more affordable Harem Series. Price notwithstanding, this is part of the latter. 100% organically farmed Pinot Noir sourced, in 2013, from the Penbro Vineyard in the Yea Valley district. 45% of the grapes were macerated and fermented (with indigenous yeasts) as whole clusters, the rest as whole berries. Given three days’ cold soak and minimal punching down. Spent 30 days on the skins and eight months on the lees in old French oak barrels. Unfiltered and unfined. Screwcapped. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Wafting, warm-climate nose, the red cherry and berries lifted by spice, grounded by earth and darkened by gamy notes. In the mouth, it’s a supple, savoury middleweight. The fruit is ripe but not heavy, thanks in large part to the refreshing acidity. Background minerals and old wood provide some flavour depth while airframe tannins bestow a modicum of grip, most apparent on the finish. Lightly chilled, this would go well with grilled tuna or cedar-planked salmon. (Buy again? Irrespective of price, yes. But 40 bucks is awfully steep for an easy-drinking Pinot.)
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (5/7)
Burgenland 2012, Blaufränkisch, Heideboden, Weingut Pittnauer ($24.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Located near the village of Gols, on the northeastern shore of the Neusiedlersee not far from the Hungarian border, the estate is renowned for its St. Laurents and Pinot Noirs. This 100% Blaufränkisch come from biodynamically and organically farmed quarter-century old vines grown in the Heideboden vineyard. Manually harvested. Fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks at 27°C. Matured 12 months in neutral barrels. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Dark berries, flowers, spice and graphite on the nose. Fresh and lively in the mouth. Supple tannins provide just enough grit while streaming acidity carries the juicy, very dry fruit (mainly cherry) into a clean, minerally finish. Modern in its elegance but classic in its down-to-earthiness. Food-friendly to the max. (Buy again? Sure.)
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (4/7)
Jurançon sec 2011, La Virada, Camin Larredya ($43.00, private import, 6 bottles/case)
A blend of equal parts of organically farmed Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng and Courbu Blanc grown in the La Virada vineyard. The grapes are manually harvested and whole cluster pressed. The must is transferred to barrels and fermented with indigenous yeasts. Matured on the fine lees in foudres for 12 months. 14% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Subdued, languorous nose of acacia blossom, candied white and yellow fruit, citrus oil and minerals. Weighty and dense, voluminous and structured. Despite the oily texture, rich extract and faint touch of rounding residual sugar, tense with acidity. Subtle white and yellow fruit and blossoms intertwine with threads of chalky minerals. Finishes long, soft and clean. An excellent wine with years of life ahead of it. (Buy again? Yes.)
A few bottles of the estate’s 2011 La Part Davant remain at the SAQ ($26.45, 12233434). To go by the La Virada, it’s worth checking out.
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (3/7)
Anjou Blanc 2012, Domaine Thibaud Boudignon ($40.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
Hailing from Bordeaux, young (30-something?) Thibaud Boudignon is head of operations at Château Soucherie. On the side, he makes wine under his own name from two hectares of vineyards in Anjou and Savennières. This 100% organically farmed Chenin Blanc comes from vines averaging a third of a century old and grown in shallow soils on grey schist, ryholite and sand. The grapes are manually harvested and gently pressed. The must is fermented with indigenous yeasts in French and Austrian oak barrels of various volumes. Does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Matured eight to 12 months in one and two-year-old Burgundian 225-litre barrels and new 500-litre barrels. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Dry. Intense, breath-holdingly balanced. The ripe-sweet fruit – pear and lemon – is somehow both dense and ethereal. Floral, honey and quinine overtones abound but the oak calls no attention to itself. The acidity is racy, the minerality dazzling. The saline finish goes on and on. There are wines whose focus and energy are such they seem powered from within. This is one of them. The last word I wrote (and a word I rarely use): incredible. (Buy again? Absolutely.)
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (2/7)
Vin de France 2012, PUR Blanc, Château Revelette ($29.65, private import, 6 bottles/case)
The estate has been certified organic for two decades now. The new PUR line – PUR stands for produit uniquement de raisin – consists of three wines: a red, a rosé and this white, which is mostly Ugni Blanc, the balance possibly being Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are manually harvested. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled concrete tanks with indigenous yeasts, malolactic fermentation and maturation on the gross lees in concrete tanks with no racking. Bottled unfiltered and unfined, with no added sulphur. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Restrained nose of browning yellow apple, chalk, flint, a hint of anise. In the mouth, the wine’s slightly oily texture only makes the dazzling minerality that much more surprising. Citrus and yellow fruit complement but discreetly. Acidity sheds light. A saline tang marks the long finish. Crystalline, fresh and indeed pure, this would make a fine aperitif with thyme-roasted almonds and tapenande hors d’oeuvres. Raw bars should be ordering cases. (Buy again? [Insert high price gripe here] but definitely.)
Salon VIP 2014: Root day at Rézin (1/7)
We wended our way to the Groupe Rézin stand, where Steve Beauséjour was, as ever, an enthusiastic host. Despite its being a root day – not a fruit day – on the biodynamic calendar, the wines were showing well, he said. And indeed they were.
Grüner Veltliner 2012, Rosensteig, Kremstal, Weingut Geyerhof ($28.85, private import, 12 bottles/case)
Currently comprising 19 hectares of vines, 70% of them Grüner Veltliner, the estate has been in the Maier family’s hands since the 16th century and certified organic since 1988. This 100% Grüner Veltliner comes from vineyards in Hollenberg, located on the south side of the Danube, east of Krems. The grapes are manually harvested in early October and whole-cluster pressed. After clarification by settling, the must is fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured on the lees for several months and filtered and bottled in mid-March. Sees only stainless steel until bottling. 12.5% ABV. Screwcapped. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Textbook GV nose: lime, green melon, white minerals, whiffs of grass, mint and white pepper. Nimble, fleet and fluid in the mouth yet also very present. Clean and tangy fruit, crystalline minerals and crisp acidity dance across the palate and fade into a saline, peppery finish. So easy to down. A summer sipper par excellence, this would also go famously with salads, vegetable dishes and mildly spiced, not-sweet, white-proteined Asian food. (Buy again? A bit pricey for an everyday wine – a recurring theme at this show – but yes.)
MWG April 17th tasting (4/6): The Greek, the Beauj’ and the Funky
Naoussa 2012, Jeunes vignes de Xinomavro, Domaine Thymiopoulos ($18.70, 12212220)
100% biodynamically farmed Xinomavro from ten-year-old vines. Manually harvested. 80% destemmed, 20% whole cluster pressed. Very gentle pressing. Fermented with indigenous yeasts and no pump-overs. Macerated about one week, then matured nine months in stainless steel tanks. Bottled unfiltered. 13.5% ABV.
A bit stinky on opening, as sometimes happens with this wine. That quickly blew off, leaving a charming nose of slate, candied red berries and spice. Denser than some earlier vintages but still fresh and supple, the fruit pure, the acidity bright and the tannins light and just a little raspy. Dried herbs, spice and minerals add savour. Finishes clean and tangy. Yet another winner from Thymiopoulos. (Buy again? In multiples.)
Morgon 2012, Marcel Lapierre ($30.50, Rézin, NLA)
This was the “nature” bottling available through the private import channel, not the filtered and more heavily sulphured SAQ bottling. 100% organically farmed Gamay from 60-year-old vines. Manually harvested late in the season. Whole-cluster fermentation with indigenous yeasts at low temperatures lasts ten to 20 days. Matured nine months on the fine lees in old Burgundy oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered, unfined and with minimal sulphur. 12.5% ABV.
Cherry, stones, vine sap and faint spice. Silky fruit, bright acidity, supple tannins and that Lapierre trick of being both etherial and intense. Slow-fade finish with lingering scents of minerals, berries and flowers. Classic and delicious. I’m guessing this will peak in two to three years. (Buy again? Yes.)
Vino da tavola 2011, Rosso frizzante, Sottobosco, Ca’ de Noci ($24.00, Ward & associés, NLA)
A blend of organically farmed Lambrusco Grasparossa (30%), Lambrusco di Montericco (30%), Malbo Gentile (20%) and Sgavetta (20%) from ten-year-old vines. Manually harvested. The grapes are macerated for around ten days on their skins and fermented with indigenous yeasts. Refermentation in the bottle (to produce the sparkle) is also natural. Unfiltered and unfined. 11% ABV.
Popped and poured. The wildly funky nose elicited all kinds of reactions, including the descriptor fetid. The miasma lifted some as the wine breathed, allowing hints of slate and red and black fruit to emerge. (A taster who had previously encountered the wine said ours was an unusually stinky bottle.) In the mouth, it’s bone dry, tart and astringent. The light fizz adds a mild creaminess that polishes, if only a little, the coarse texture. Surprisingly mouth-filling fruit and earthy flavours last well into the finish. Despite everything, good enough to make you think a cleaner bottle might have a genuine rustic appeal. (Buy again? With my fingers crossed.)
The common thread in this flight was wines that would work with charcuterie. Our cured meats came in the form of duck prosciutto and pork and duck rillettes from Pork Futures and a gifted dry sausage whose provenance I don’t recall. While all three wines proved up to the task, I found the Naoussa best with the prosciutto, the Morgon best with the fatty, mild rillettes and the Sottobosco best with the prosciutto and the dark flavoured sausage.
Somewhereness 2013: Charles Baker
Charles Baker currently makes two wines, both Rieslings and both from purchased grapes. (A red may be in the works.) In absence of a dedicated winery, the wine-making is done at Stratus, where Baker is director of sales. The wines are made only with the post-crushing free-run juice and are fermented and matured in stainless steel. They clearly express a sense of place, being true to both the grape and their origin – not mock German, Alsatian or Austrian but unique, with their own sense of style, their own somewhereness.
Riesling 2011, Picone Vineyard, Twenty-Mile Bench VQA, Charles Baker ($35.25, Rézin, 6 bottles/case)
100% Riesling from 30-year-old vines grown in the Picone vinyeard on Vinemount Ridge. Screwcapped. 20 g/l residual sugar. 11% ABV.
Fresh, clean nose: dusty limestone, lemon/lime, green apple and a floral note. Smooth, even tender in the mouth. Present but not heavy, off-dry but with a tart substructure. Long limestoney finish. Remarkably poised for an adolescent. (Buy again? Yes, despite wishing it was in the $25 to $30 range.)
While the 2011 Picone was the only wine Baker was pouring at Somewhereness 2013, I’m taking advantage of this opportunity to post notes on two more of his wines that I recently enjoyed.
Riesling 2006, Picone Vineyard, Twenty-Mile Bench VQA, Charles Baker
The second vintage of the wine. 100% Reisling from 25-year-old vines grown in the Picone vineyard on Vinemount Ridge. Screwcapped. 25 g/l residual sugar. 11% ABV.
Complex, engaging nose of petrol, spice and citrus. Balanced intensity. Tense but not tight. A shade sweeter than the 2011 on the attack but drier on the finish. The fruit and minerals are fully integrated, inseparable: the product of time. Great length and purity. Transparent in the sense that the grape and terroir come through like light through glass. Saying this is the best New World Riesling I’ve tasted doesn’t do it justice: truly world-class. (Buy again? If only I could.)
Riesling 2012, Ivan Vineyard, Twenty-Mile Bench VQA, Charles Baker ($27.00 at Stratus)
100% Riesling from young vines grown in a 12-acre vineyard planted at the turn of the century. Screwcapped. 13 g/l residual sugar. 11.5% ABV.
Lime, linden, green leaves. Clean, tart, refreshing. Sour apple upfront, limestone more in background. Pure and intense with a lip-smacking finish. (Buy again? Yes.)
Brett happens 