Archive for the ‘Tasting notes’ Category
Un couple d’Aixois
While it would be going too far to claim that Provençal wines get no respect, it is true that they’re often overlooked. Part of the problem is that, until recently and with a few exceptions like Bandol, they were often overlookable. Tighter regulation as former VDQS regions have been granted AOC status, the planting of better grapes and the arrival of more serious winemakers have turned the situation around. Today, Provence is the source of many enjoyable and affordable wines of every colour, wines that more often than not taste of their place.
Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2006, Domaine Les Béates ($22.75, 11358260)
Organically farmed Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Reared in stainless steel and one-year oak vats.
Lovely, brooding nose: red fruit, garrigue, earth. Smooth and fluid on the palate, the fruit pure and ripe. Quite structured by fine tannins though not particularly deep. Good acidity and length, with a hint of vanilla on the finish. Comes across as a little austere but in an appealing, even elegant way. No apparent alcohol and medium-bodied, despite the 14%.
Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2008, Château Revelette ($18.30, 10259737)
Organically farmed 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Vinified and reared in concrete vats.
Baked earth, dried herbes de Provence, dark fruit, sawed wood, hint of alcohol. Silky on entry, turning velvety as the tannins make their presence felt. Pure fruit, sweet at first but gaining sourer notes and darker undertones. Long finish shows some astringency along with lingering black cherry flavours.
Both wines went with an estouffade provençale (beef stewed in red wine with aromatic vegetables, thyme and bay and finished with grated orange zest) as to the manner born.
Claude Courtois’s 2009 Quartz
Vin de France 2009, Quartz, Domaine Claude Courtois/Les Cailloux du Paradis ($28.00, 12 bottles/case, La QV)
Thought this was a second shipment of the 2008, which I so enjoyed last June, but it turns out to be the 2009, which I enjoyed even more. Popular with the province’s new-wave bistros and wine bars, this will sell out quickly, especially as it’s about 10% cheaper than the 2008.
100% Sauvignon Blanc. 12.2% ABV.
Nose of minerals and rain. Hints of citrus zest (more lime than lemon) and herby hay but no extroverted grassiness, boxwood or cat pee.
Very dry. Initial fruit quickly joined by a crystalline, citrusy sourness and a faint quinine-like bitterness. Brightly, not screechingly acidic. Long, clean, minerally finish. Subtle, pure, transparent: a watercolour, not an oil painting
So refreshing and tonic, like water from a mountain spring. What Chablis would be if it were made from Sauvignon Blanc.
Perfect with oysters Rockefeller. Almost as good with pan-seared scallops drizzled with a Meyer lemon and white wine reduction.
• • •
Domaine Claude Courtois/Les Cailloux du Paradis is in Sologne, a Loire Valley district located just south of Touraine. Courtois likes to describe himself as a winemaking peasant with a deep respect for nature. That means old-fashioned farming, with no chemical fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides, and using atypical winemaking techniques designed to bring out the essence of the terroir. Currently 13 ha (32 acres) in size, the estate is planted mainly with Gamay (for the Nacarat cuvée); Cabernet Franc, Cot and Cabernet Sauvignon (Racines cuvée); Sauvignon Blanc (Quartz and Plume d’ange cuvées) and Pineau (Alkimya cuvée). He has got into trouble with local authorities for planting Syrah (not to mention the rumoured Barbera, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, etc.), even though historical records show that it was part of the region’s grape mix prior to the phylloxera crisis.
Wine Terroirs profile
French Facebook page run by fans (Courtois is said to be, well, if not exactly a Luddite, someone who has little time for modern technology)
The estate’s way out-of-date website
Some excellent photos of Courtois and his estate and of Olivier Cousin
La Stoppa’s 2009 Gutturnio
Colli Piacentini 2009, Gutturnio, La Stoppa ($19.40, 12 bottles/case)
A blend of organically farmed Barbera and Bonarda. Fermented with native yeasts.
So intriguing. The nose is unlike any other: hay loft, old leather-bound books, dried beef, turned earth exposed to the sun for a while, black tea leaves and a hint of barnyard against a gossamer backdrop of red fruit stewed with spices. (If it’s not obvious, I’m grasping for descriptors.) The first sip brings a surprise: a sparkling tingle. Judging by the label, this isn’t the estate’s frizzante cuvée that bears the same name but it almost could be. Exceedingly dry yet light and fleet on the palate: acid galore, a fluid texture, light and raspy-bordering-on-rustic tannins and a long sour-fruity finish, all lifted by that spritz. Lingering dried wood (or is it lightly roasted coffee?) and faint astringency. You’d never suspect it was 13.5% ABV.
The fruit sweetens and the carbon dioxide diminishes as the wine breathes.
Cries out for salumi, though it’d also be great with spaghetti with pesto rosso, grilled sausages or just about anything in tomato sauce. A private import from oenopole, and it looks like they’ve got some left.
January 13th MWG tasting: report
FLIGHT 1: FOUR TABLE WINES FROM LES VENTS D’ANGE
Cuvée Valérie 2009, Vignoble Les Vents d’Ange ($15, Sublime Vins et Spiritueux)
100% Kay Gray. Floral, citrusy nose, extroverted in a Sauvignon Blanc kind of way. Bright and clean on the palate, with an acidic bite on the finish. Refreshing. (Buy again? Yes.)
Cuvée Catherine 2009, Vignoble Les Vents d’Ange ($15.50, Sublime Vins et Spiritueux)
50% Kay Gray, 50% Prairie Star. More restrained nose: hints of white flowers, spice and musk grapes. Rounder and smoother on the palate than the Valérie, a fact due not only to the less acidic Prairie Star but also to the higher residual sugar. White fruit with a suggestion of something green (fennel? bok choy?). Soft, buttery, minerally finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Cuvée Marie-Rose 2008, Vignoble Les Vents d’Ange ($13, Sublime Vins et Spiritueux)
And now for something completely different. 100% Montreal Blues (aka St. Theresa and Flambeau), a Concord-type black table grape. Candied apple, sour plum, a hint of foxiness and an oxidized note, a little like a rancio Banyuls. Intensely fruity yet surprisingly, even shockingly dry. Acidic, clean but abrupt finish. (Buy again? Doubtful.)
Cuvée Alexandria 2008, Vignoble Les Vents d’Ange ($15.50, Sublime Vins et Spiritueux)
70% Montreal Blues, 30% St. Croix. Oak chips added during fermentation. Spice and candied raspberry with subtle wood. Medium-bodied, brightly acidic. Straightforward fruit flavours, a suggestion of oak, a bit more than a suggestion of residual sugar. Light, raspy tannins and a tingly finish. (Buy again? Probably not.)
A relatively new arrival on the Quebec winemaking scene (first vintage was 2006), Vignoble Les Vents d’Ange is located in St-Joseph-du-Lac just east of Oka. In deference to the climate, the winery works exclusively with hardy hybrid cultivars developed by Wisconsin grape breeder Elmer Swenson. I first encountered the wines in November at the Quebec wine and cheese expo, where I found their straightforwardness and lack of pretension refreshing. This time around, the dry whites were exactly as I remembered them (my two sets of tasting notes use many of the same descriptors) while the rosé and red didn’t show nearly as well; this may have something to do with the fact that our bottles were uncorked only minutes before serving while the bottles at the expo had been open for a while.
FLIGHT 2: THREE AFFORDABLE AUSTRIAN RIESLINGS
Riesling Federspiel Terrassen 2009, Domäne Wachau ($18.35, 11034775)
Lime with a hint of lanolin. Clean, pure and intense: heading into racy territory. Biting finish somewhat rounded by residual sugar. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Riesling Kamptal Trocken 2009, Domaene Gobelsburg ($18.35, 10790309)
Minerals. Slight tingle, almost a fizz. Bracing acidity balanced by pure if lean fruit. Came across as very dry when chilled. Long, fieldstone finish. (Buy again. Yes.)
Riesling Kamptal 2008, Steinhaus, Weingut Rabl ($20.95, 10790341)
Stony with an initial spice-box note (curry?). Smoother, slightly sweeter and a little more complex than the other two. Acidic finish. (Buy again? Maybe.)
All three wines, especially the Wachau and Rabl, seemed to gain weight and sweetness as they warmed in the glass. Few of us thought this was a good thing; keep the bottles in the fridge or ice bucket when not pouring.
FLIGHT 3: TWO BOTTLINGS OF LAPIERRE’S 2009 MORGON
Morgon 2009, Domaine Marcel Lapierre ($26.80, 11305344)
The “SAQ” bottling: lightly sulphured and filtered. 100% organically farmed Gamay. Slightly clearer and more limpid. Pure fruit. Showing a bit harsher with a little less depth and character. Not as complete though still lovely. Tasting blind, three of the 12 people present chose this as the “Nature.” (Buy again? Moot. September’s initial release of 1,800 bottles sold out in six hours; a recent, less hyped restocking vanished almost as fast, though a few stragglers remain in St-Jean de Matha and other remote outlets.)
Morgon 2009, “Nature,” Domaine Marcel Lapierre ($27.55, Rézin–NLA)
The winemaker’s regular bottling: unfiltered and unsulphured. 100% organically farmed Gamay. A little cloudier. More complex nose: minerals, peony, spice and a bit of funk. More faceted and serious. Longer too. Acid, fruit and light tannins in perfect balance. Pure, lovely, caressing. Nine of the 12 tasters identified this as the “Nature.” (Buy again? If only I could.)
The late lamented Marcel provides some background in a short video made during his visit to Quebec last spring.
The differences between the two bottlings became increasingly apparent as the wines breathed. When I returned to my glasses after the tasting was over (about two hours after the bottles were opened), the SAQ bottling had lost presence and gained harshness while the “Nature” bottling was still chugging sweetly along.
FLIGHT 4: TWO ORGANIC SYRAH-GRENACHE BLENDS
Côtes du Vivarais 2007, Domaine Gallety ($23.70, 00918615)
Earlier vintages have been a 50-50 blend of biodynamically farmed Syrah and Grenache; I assume the 2007 is too. Slightly candied nose initially marked by alcohol (15.9%!) and volatile acidity; the latter eventually blew off, leaving plum, red meat and beef jerky. An intense mouthful of spicy baked fruit and tannins. Long, hot, garrigue-scented finish. Dry but somewhat port-like, the heat only partially balanced by the fruit. May improve with time though it will never become refreshing. (Buy again? Nope.)
Coteaux du Languedoc 2007, Cuvée 5 920 km, Terrenum ($23.25, Réserve et Sélection)
Organically farmed Syrah (65%) and Grenache (35%). Aged five months in new French oak casks. 1,800 bottles made. An altogether earthier nose than the Gallety’s: garrigue, black raspberry and a whiff of barnyard. Very dry, less tannic, somewhat lighter-bodied, with livelier acid: overall more digeste. Plum and spice flavours gain a faint bitter tarriness on the nicely sustained finish. (Buy again? Yes.)
Côtes du Vivarais is a relatively new (created in 1999) and obscure appellation that straddles the Ardèche river and, at one point, touches the west bank of the Rhône. Kermit Lynch, among others, claim the Gallety estate is the missing link between the northern and southern Rhône regions. Terrenum is a négociant operation run by Montrealer Simon Thibaudeau.
FLIGHT 5: FOUR FIVE SUB-SUPERTUSCANS
Toscana IGT 2008, Maremma, Mongrana, Querciabella ($19.90, 11192183)
Organically farmed Sangiovese (50%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (25%); a fraction of the wine sees three months in casks. The 2008 is the fourth vintage. Cassis and pencil lead, gaining a candied note and a hint of volatility as it breathed. Medium-bodied. Fluid. Structured, the tannins drying on the finish, but not particularly deep. Fruit sweeter and spicier than in the same house’s Chiantis. Good if a little one-dimensional and anonymous. (Buy again? Eh.)
Bolgheri 2007, Villa Donoratico, Argentiera ($27.25, 10845074)
Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Merlot (10%); aged 12 months in new and one-year French oak barrels. Freshly ground beef, green pepper, cassis and ash. Smooth, round. Tannins seem fruit-cloaked, in the background. Oak a little too present for now. Good structure and length. Decent enough but lacking charm. (Buy again? No.)
Bolgheri 2008, Le Serre Nuove, Tenuta dell’Ornellaia ($59, 10223574)
The second wine of Ornellaia. Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Cabernet Franc (9%) and Petit Verdot (6%). Aged 18 months in a mix of new and year-old oak casks. Nose dominated by sweet oak (vanilla, toast, chocolate), albeit very classy oak; Bordeauxish cassis, graphite and cedar are also present, though you have to look for them. Far too oaky on first taste. With time, the wood receded slightly and you could see the makings of an elegant, structured and balanced wine. Obviously needs another five years or so to mature. That said, I’m left wondering whether it will ever taste Italian. (Buy again? No.)
Maremma Toscana IGT 2005, Sesà, I Vigneti di Poggio Foco ($39.50, 10538728)
Organically farmed Merlot (50%), Cabernet Franc (30%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) with the remainder made up of other, unspecified grape varieties. Spent 18 months in new French oak barrels. Lovely fresh nose of cassis and graphite yet more Langhe- than Bordeaux-like. Smooth and fluid texture. More medium- than full-bodied. Tobacco and cedar – but oddly little oak – scent the fruit. Good structure and acidity. Ripe tannins turn a little drying on the long finish. Many tasters’ wine of the night. (Buy again? Sure.)
Bolgheri Superiore 2007, Sapaio, Podere Sapaio ($47.50, 10860805)
Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (30%) with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Spent 18 months in oak casks. Complex and engaging nose: black cherry, red meat, ink, slate, wood, fresh-turned earth, grass/herbs, hint of kirsch (14.5%). Rich and dense, big and muscular but not galumphing. Sweet fruit on entry with a swelling bitter undercurrent. Velvety tannins, showing some astringency on finish. As the wine breathed, the oak became more apparent. Long, liqueurish (Chambord?) finish. A sun-drenched Cabernet, bordering on New Worldish yet retaining its Italian accent. Will likely improve over the next five to eight years. Made a credible pairing for a grilled rib eye sliced and drizzled with garlic- and rosemary-infused olive oil. (Buy again? Not my style but recommendable all the same.)
Popular with SAQ wine advisors and local critics, the Sapaio has a reputation for punching above its weight. I’d originally planned to include it in the tasting but inadvertently left it at home, leading to its last-minute replacement by Le Serre Nuove.
FLIGHT 6: A KAY GRAY ICE WINE
Cuvée Blanche 2008, Vin de glace, Vignobles Les Vents d’Ange ($35/375 ml, Sublime Vins et Spiritueux)
100% Kay Gray. Apple butter and honey nose with a hint of spice and vanilla. Sweet but not saccharine. Acidic enough to avoid syrupiness. Not particularly complex flavour profile. Long, honeyed finish with a cheesy note. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Exordium for a welterweight
It had been a long day for the Pork Futures guys but they’d managed to sell their umpteen kilos of sausage, cured duck breast, beef jerky, headcheese and other goodies. The hordes had departed, only to be replaced by a crushing wave of fatigue.
A last bottle was opened, glasses filled. The guys took a sip and sat up straight, eyes open wide. “Wow!” “This is fun!” “What is this?”
What is this? A wine that can revive the dead, apparently.
The label reads:
EXORDE 2009
Vin de France
Mise en bouteille par David Caer
Clos Mathélisse
Later that evening I searched the Web, trying various combinations of the wine’s name, estate and producer. Not a single hit. How often does that happen?
The bottle was a straggler picked up at La QV’s organic market event last fall. The next day I gave Mr. La QV, Cyril Kérébel, a call. Here’s what he told me:
Clos Mathélisse is a new estate – a couple of vineyards actually – owned by David Caer. 2009 is its second vintage. Its wines are made by Régis Pichon of Domaine Ribiera, whose Grenache-Carignan blend La Vista impressed me in October. Both Clos Mathélisse and Domaine Ribiera are located in Aspiran, a commune in the Hérault département of the Languedoc. (Aspiran is also the name of a once popular but now rapidly disappearing local red grape variety still permitted in Minervois wines.)
Pichon makes natural wines from organically farmed grapes and indigenous yeasts. He destems his red wine grapes before pressing. Whether to punch down, pump over or sit tight is decided on a day-to-day basis. Fermentation and maceration typically last 15 to 25 days. The wines are bottled unfiltered and unfined. Very little sulphur is added, so the winemaker recommends that the bottles be stored at 15ºC (60ºF) or less.
Clos Mathélisse’s Exorde is 100% Cinsault. Pichon says his aim for the variety is “matière veloutée et arômes” (velvety substance and aromas), both of which Exorde has in spades. That said, it’s a vin plaisir, an easy drinker, not a vin de contemplation or a keeper for that matter.
None of us was taking notes the evening we opened the bottle. My initial memory is one of delight. I also recall the wine as being slightly cloudy to the eye and extrovertedly funky-fruity to the nose. The fruit had a wild flavour, like elderberry or wild cherry, while the tannins were raspy and light. There was also a je ne sais quoi quality quite unlike anything I’ve ever encountered in a wine, including other Cinsaults from the Languedoc.
A few days later I asked the Pork Futures boys for their impressions. “Ripe fruit with a note higher up on the palate, something mineral or medicinal but not green (fennel? mint?), and a silky texture,” said one. “Light-bodied, like a Pinot, maybe with some Beaujolais hints. Not overly ripe. A super-fun wine that puts a smile on your face,” said the other.
The bad news was that La QV had sold out of the wine when I inquired in November. The good news is that a small second shipment is slated to arrive on a private-import basis in early February. Price should be $20.50 a bottle, 12 bottles per case. Carpe diem.
November 4th MWG tasting: report
Notes on 15 wines from the November 4th Cellier release. Prices are in Canadian dollars and include sales taxes.
FLIGHT 1
Mosel 2008, Riesling, Mönchhof ($17.45, 11334920)
Light breezy nose of white flowers, lime and minerals. Off-dry and a little spritzy. Medium acidity, pure fruit, rainwater finish. Pleasant though more grip would be welcome. Vin terrasse. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Pinot Gris 2008, Acrobat, Oregon, King Estate ($17.95, 11333767)
Wax and pear with dried herb and lactic notes. Fluid but unctuous with just-noticeable residual sugar. A little facile, though a mildly mineral/bitter/astringent substrate hints at deeper things. Enough acidity to keep things fresh. Fair finish. (Buy again? Probably not.)
Columbia Valley 2009, Riesling, Evergreen Vineyard, Efesté Wine ($21.50, 11334760)
7-Up and minerals on the nose. Lemon-lime, minerals and herbs on the palate. Nearly dry and what sugar there is is counterbalanced by acidity. Fruity finish. Requires vigorous chewing to show any depth. (Buy again? Probably not when Germans offer more bang for the buck.)
Central Otago 2009, Riesling, Target Gully, Mt. Difficulty ($25.60, 11334778)
Petrol, lime, tarragon and a hint of BO. A mouthful of minerals and yellow citrus with a dollop of residual sugar. Fair length. Could use more oomph, especially more acid, but clearly the most complete and dimensional wine in the flight. (Buy again? Probably not when Germans offer more bang for the buck.)
FLIGHT 2
Chehalem Mountains 2006, Pinot Noir, Carabella Vineyard ($27.65, 11333791)
Sweet red berries, hints of forest floor. Sweet fruity attack, oaky mid-palate and bitter-edged finish. Bright acid. Lacks depth. Not unpleasant but unexceptional. (Buy again? Not when you can find better Burgundies for the same price.)
Willamette Valley 2007, Pinot Noir, 3 Vineyard, Chehalem Wines ($32.75, 11333783)
Not particularly appealing nose of spice, beet and oak. Medium-bodied. Oak-heavy choco-cherry with some herby mid-palate nuance. Hot finish. Yuk! (Buy again? No way.)
Langhe 2007, Nebbiolo, La Spinetta ($28.90, 11337979)
Ink, raspberry, cherry, minerals, tar, Asian spice. Dense but not heavy fruit, mineral underlay. Tight tannins. Fluid texture. Lingering bitter-edged finish. Needs a few years to knit together and smooth out. (Buy again? If looking for a modern-style Nebbiolo, yep.)
Barolo 2005, Albe, G. D. Vajra ($35.25, 11337944)
Nail polish, shoe leather, dried roses. Fluid but rich. Pure fruit and background oak. Tight tannins and bright acid. Earthy finish. Seems ready to go. Despite the wine’s interesting qualities, several of us wondered whether our bottle wasn’t defective (ethyl acetate), a disappointment as I’d been looking forward to tasting this bottling from a producer whose other wines I’ve often enjoyed. (Buy again? Another bottle to see if ours was off.)
FLIGHT 3
Etna 2006, Rosso di Verzella, Benanti ($20.65, 11348459)
A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio given about ten months in small casks. Wafting nose of dried black cherry, baked earth, rosemary. Round, smooth and savoury. Medium-bodied. Lively acid gives freshness. Round tannins provide structure. Soft, long finish. A charmer. (Buy again? If only I could…)
Valpolicella Superiore Classico 2007, Ripasso, Pojega, Guerrieri Rizzardi ($22.65, 11331681)
Blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara. Roasted red peppers, spice. Sweet plummy fruit enlivened by acid, underpinned by fine tannins. Rich, smooth and harmonious with a long, savoury finish and lingering impression of warmth (not heat). A winner. (Buy again? Yes.)
Monferrato 2007, Pin, La Spinetta ($49.75, 11337987)
Blend of barrel-aged Nebbiolo (65%) and Barbera (35%). Exuberant nose of spice, leaf mould, wood and black cherry with a floral note. Pure fruit. Dense and plush. Good acid. Quite tannic. Long astringent finish. Needs time. Modern but in a good way. (Buy again? Price is the only thing holding me back.)
FLIGHT 4
Valle de Colchagua 2008, Quatro, MontGras ($17.95, 11331737)
Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Carmenère (20%), Malbec (20%) and Syrah (15%). Spent 11 months in casks, 30% new. Nose of bacon, Keds, dried herbs and telltale tomato vine. Smooth on the palate, with ripe fruit and noticeable oak. Cocoa finish. Straightforward, balanced and pleasant if a little facile. Good QPR. (Buy again? Sure, if you like the style.)
Columbia Valley 2007, River’s Red, Three Rivers Winery ($19.90, 11336466)
A dog’s breakfast blend of Syrah, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Trempranillo. Fresh nose: cassis, herbs, green pepper, spice. Clean if somewhat candied fruit, smooth tannins, oaky finish. Simple but fun. (Buy again? Sure, if you like the style.)
Columbia Valley 2007, Cabernet Sauvignon, L’École N° 41 ($37.75, 10707093)
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Spent 22 months in oak barrels, a third of them new. Cheese grains, cassis. Rich fruit, touch of residual sugar, oak in background. Good acid, light tannins that become more prominent with aeration. Shorter than expected for a wine in this price bracket. In fact, the wine overall seemed a bit one-dimensional and a little disjointed. Needs time? (Buy again? Only out of curiosity to see how it might develop.)
Yakima Valley 2006, Boushey Vineyard, Fidélitas Wines ($58.75, 11335421)
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Cabernet Franc. Spent 24 months in casks, half of them new. Cassis, black raspberry and fresh dill. Sweet fruit buttressed by rich tannins, freshened by acidity. Plush texture. Layers of flavour. Long. A complete wine. Quite impressive in its style. (Buy again? If in the market for a full-bore West Coast Bordeaux blend, sure.)
A bouquet of affordable red Bordeaux (right-bank edition)
Yet more notes – the last – from the under-$30 Bordeaux event. Arranged in order of increasing price. It wasn’t always clear whether the quoted private import prices were for restaurants or individuals, so check with the agency concerned before submitting your order.
Côtes de Castillon 2006, Cuvée Prestige, Château Vieux Monpezat ($16.90, 10844813)
Cassis, cigar box, hint of vanilla: classic. Smooth but grippy, with clean fruit, good balance and a long finish. Great QPR.
Puisseguin Saint-Émilion 2007, Château des Laurets ($18.25, 371401)
Merlot with about 20% Cabernet Franc. Estate acquired by Château Clarke owner Benjamin de Rothschild in 2003 and advised by Michel Rolland (microbullage !). Red fruit, spice and oak on the nose. Supple entry, pure fruit, subtle oak. Lingering mild astringency. Could use more focus and depth.
Premières Côtes de Blaye 2004, Château La Raz Caman ($18.60, 888578)
Around 2/3 Merlot and 1/4 Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance made up by Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Classic red Bordeaux nose: spicy plum, oak, tobacco. Clean and fruity attack. Supple tannins and bright acid structure the mid-palate. Shortish finish. Correct.
Lalande de Pomerol 2004, Château La Croix des Moines ($24.25, 973057)
Merlot with about 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Spent 14 months in barrels, 25% new. Sweet and sour cassis with toast and menthol notes. Plump fruit and tight tannins. Good length. Seems closed but promising.
Côtes de Francs 2005, Château Le Puy ($24.45, 709469)
Merlot with a little Cabernet Sauvignon and maybe a dash of Carmenère. Biodynamic and, going by the clarity, unfiltered and unfined. Engaging nose despite the hint of barnyard: cassis, herbs, candied plum, red meat. Smooth, medium bodied, lacy tannins. Savoury herbs and sweet fruit, turning a little tart on the long finish. Distinctive, authentic and delicious: a real winner.
Lalande de Pomerol 2007, Le Pavillon de Saint-Jacques ($27.39, 6 bottles/case, Plan Vin)
80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh and appealing nose: cassis, raspberries, green leaves and flowers. Round and smooth on the surface but with underlying tannins. Sweet berry fruit. Good length. Another winner.
Canon-Fronsac 2006, Candelaire, Château Lamarche-Canon ($32.75, 00912204)
90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Spent 16 months in oak barrels, 35% new. Toasty plum, black raspberry and spice. Rich and pure with tight, dense tannins and an oaky overlay. Long and well proportioned if a little monolithic for now: could use a couple of years in the cellar.
A bouquet of affordable red Bordeaux (left-bank edition)
More notes from the under-$30 Bordeaux event. Arranged in order of increasing price. It wasn’t always clear whether the quoted private import prices were for restaurants or individuals, so check with the agency concerned before submitting your order.
Côtes de Bourg 2007, Château Bujan ($18.60, 862086)
75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc. Attractive nose of sweet cassis and graphite with floral and oak notes. Supple entry, pure fruit, subtle oak, raspy tannins, bright acid and a little astringency on the finish. Seems lighter than the 2005 and 2006 but no less appealing.
Bordeaux 2007, Marquis de Bordeaux ($20.85, 6 bottles/case, Raisonnance Inc.)
65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh nose of plum and cassis. Smooth and fluid attack. Good fruit and acid on the mid-palate though a bit oaky. Tannic finish. Not bad.
Bordeaux Supérieur 2005, Pavillon Rouge ($20.85, 6 bottles/case, Raisonnance Inc.)
Definitely not Château Margaux’s similarly named second wine. Blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Candied cassis and raspberry with tobacco scents. Pure and straightforward, more about fruit than structure. Herbs and tobacco scent the long finish. This would make a good bistro wine. A winner.
Bordeaux Supérieur 2007, Hyppos, Château Majoureau ($22.60, 6 bottles/case, Plan Vin)
About 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Spent 12 months in French and American oak barrels, a fraction of which were new. Red fruit and spice with oak hints. Smooth and silky, with pure, sweet fruit. Supple tannins, lingering finish. Vin plaisir. If I ran a restaurant, this would be on its wine list.
Graves 2001, Château d’Ardennes ($23.90, 869933)
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Cabernet Franc and less Petit Verdot. Cassis and raspberry with floral and subtle oak notes. Fresh and smooth, more medium- than full-bodied. Round on the mid-palate, showing pure fruit and a minerally undertow. Fine tannins and a credible finish. Elegant and enjoyable.
Pessac-Léognan 2005, Château de Cruzeau ($24.95, 113381)
Slightly more than half Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and a homoeopathic shot of Cabernet Franc making up the balance. Spent 12 months in barrels, about a third of which were new. Fresh, cedary nose dominated by cassis. Smooth and elegant albeit a little austere. Velvety tannins wrapped around a core of sweet fruit. Ashy minerals on the finish. Good but a little anonymous, like one of those B-movie heroes whose looks you can admire but whose name you can’t remember.
Pessac-Léognan 2005, Château de Rochemorin ($27.95, 743005)
About 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Spent 12 months in barrels, about a third of which were new. Dark fruit and oak with hints of cedar and wet earth. Tight and very dry. Muted fruit, unmuted oak. Long astringent finish. The potential’s there but this needs time.
Côtes de Bourg 2006, Château Falfas ($28.58, 6 bottles/case, Raissonance Inc.)
Biodynamically farmed Merlot (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Cabernet Franc (10%) and Malbec (5%). Spicy red fruit with a hint of oak. Supple and smooth, lively acid, sweet fruit, silky tannins and a caressing finish. Overall impression of freshness and elegance. A winner.
Saint-Estèphe 2007, Château La Croix ($29.30, 00048561)
About half Cabernet Sauvignon and a third Merlot, the balance made up by Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Textbook nose: cassis, cedar, tobacco, graphite, hint of oak. Plush fruit structured by fine, tight tannins and not masked by oak. Long finish. A decent $30 Médoc that will be even better in a year or three.
Pessac-Léognan 2006, L’Abeille de Fieuzal, Château de Fieuzal ($36.25, 10924338)
About 2/3 Merlot and 1/3 Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Cabernet Franc. Beautiful nose: cassis, red plums, spice, tobacco, gravel, vanilla. Equally beautiful on the palate. Rich, ripe fruit and subtle oak structured by firm acid and tannins. Long but also broad and even deep. I’m not usually a fan of second wines but this is a winner.
A bouquet of affordable white Bordeaux
Quick takes on seven whites tasted at the recent (mostly) under-$30 Bordeaux event. As a group, less numerous and less interesting (i.e. more commercial) than the reds I tasted, notes on which will follow.
Bordeaux 2008, Sauvignon, Château Reynon ($22.85, 11170486)
Pungent nose dominated by Sauvignon Blanc (Sémillon forms only 15% of the blend): boxwood, grapefruit zest, quartz. Smooth entry, fruity mid-palate, zesty finish. Not deep but fresh and racy. Your classic white Bordeaux.
Entre-Deux-Mers 2009, Château Bonnet ($16.70, 83709)
50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Sémillon, 10% Muscadelle. Clean Sauvignon Blanc nose. Fruity but dry. Good acid. Fast-fade finish. Not particularly polished.
Pessac-Léognan 2007, Château Cruzeau ($23.50, 225201)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Spent ten months in 35% new oak barrels. White grapefruit, minerals and ash. Fresh and balanced, chalky more than fruity, good length. Tasty.
Pessac-Léognan 2007. Château de Rochemorin ($24.95, 743013)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Spent ten months in 35% new oak barrels. Elegant nose: lime and limestone. Minerally attack, fruity mid-palate, sourish finish. Clean and pure. Appetizing.
Premières Côtes de Blaye 2008, Château Bertinerie ($15.30, 00707190)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. White citrus, gooseberry. Lighter than others. Good acid and length. Sourish finish. Simple, restrained but with a certain elegance.
Premières Côtes de Blaye 2007, Château Haut Bertinerie ($24.95, 11095130)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Spent several months in new oak barrels. A tracery of minerals butressed by fruit. Oak is very sotto voce. Good acid and length. Clean, balanced, elegant.
Sauternes 2006, Château Partarrieu ($43.50, Francs-Vins)
Crème brûlée and orange water nose. Smooth, creamy attack. Fluid, not overly sweet. Complex set of flavours ranging from subtle apricot to pronounced botrytis. Light but persistent finish. Very pleasant.
Brett happens 